Stage_3

Trouble maker!
lol

FromZto5

Lol.. That high???

Jay@Hypermotive

The 3.25 and enclosed air box and if you're still running cats you're looking at around 560-570, take the cats off and you'll gain 25HP easily. Install headers and you'll lose boost which will allow you to run a smaller pulley. You're going to run into octane issues when you start looking at upping the boost, its the joy of have a higher compression motor.

DinoDoc

Jay please explain your statement that when you install headers you will loose boost, that doesn't make any sense to me considering the fact that the headers are on the other side of the combustion chamber and two sets of valves. I can see how it will allow more HP due to the fact that you have a more efficient exhaust with less back pressure.

Lee

Gabe

Well, my tuner is telling me too stay around 8 psi, so what size would I need for that?

FRPP has a 9 psi kit so maybe I'll just get whatever size pulley comes with that kit?

Which would be what?

FromZto5

Gabe, need some updates on this thread… Or, you can start your new Whipple thread right? :-)

Gabe

OK, so pretty sure (about 99%) that I'll be getting the JLT CAI for this as well, especially since I want to be able to hear that whine.

Also, nobody knows what size pulley the 9psi kit comes with?

Burton, any chance you can PM me some more info about that Defi boost gauge?
Price, where you got it, model number, where you tapped into for boost, for power, etc.

Thanks man ...

Stage_3

EXCELLENT choice brother, excellent choice. If I do a cai, it would be the JLT Big Air, hands down.

Stage_3

[QUOTE=Gabe;6725736Also, nobody knows what size pulley the 9psi kit comes with? [/QUOTE]
Gabe, I am guessing the pulley is either a 80mm or 85mm pulley.

Gabe

Thanks Tony ... I'm finding that it may be a 3.375" pulley with the 9psi kits. Would love some confirmation though ...


Also, does anybody know, will an Aeroforce Interceptor work to display boost and air/fuel ratio simply by plugging it into the OBD2 port?

I'm told these cars have wideband oxygen sensors from the factory now, so thinking that it should.

FromZto5

Gabe, since this is your thread, I figured I could just respond here Besides, it's related to your Whipple "build", right?

I got the Defi Blue Racer gauge… but it's available in red as well. Maybe you should get red so that you don't copy me TOO much first the magna, then the milans, now this…. HAHAHAHA kidding bro.

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Defi...al-52mm-30-PSI

They're pricey, but SO worth it. Rallysport had a sale at the time and coupon, so I got it for much less than that shipped. Accuracy, looks, quality, etc. Best out there based on my reviews. Figure, if you spend 6k on a blower, you should not skimp out on the gauge.

As for boost line hookup, the Whipple (if anything like my Maggie) should have an NPT hook up right on the intake port of the SC itself. There should be a rubber cover protecting it. The Defi gauge should come with a rubber boost line, but it's somewhat short. So I went to the auto store to buy a longer vacuum line. Then the sender unit I bolted where my sound tube was. Perfect fit.

As for the power, I was going to hook it up myself, but I figured I'm not really into tinkering with electrical power lines. So I took it to my automotive electronics shop, and for 40 bucks, they hooked it up in less than an hour. IMO, it's not worth the hassle to do it yourself. But they did show me (afterwards), where they hooked it up. So they passed the lines underneath the dash, across to passenger side, then into fuse panel under right side glove box. I had them NOT connect the dimmer, because I drive with my fogs and parking lamps on, so it got dimmer during the day and could barely see. So mine is always on and bright which is how I like it.

Does that help, bro?

FromZto5

Gabe, I looked at the aeroforce as well. Neat gizmo, but I decided against it because

1) I prefer the analog look of the "traditional" boost gauges.
2) Despite getting data from OBD2, it still doesn't have the manifold pressure hooked up in our cars. Meaning, you still have to MANUALLY connect a vacuum line to the intake manifold to read boost. So, thus, I went with Defi… looks better, and I don't really care about the other data the Aeroforce spits out… for now.

Gabe

Lol, yes it does, thank you Burton!

Jay@Hypermotive

Less back pressure will decrease boost.

AlsCobra

Yeah I'm not understanding this philosophy either. Exhaust valves open, intake closed and vice versa. The only way I see this happening is if you are not exhausting properly. (Or enough)

Stage_3

Jay is right.
Stock manifolds will do just fine with these superchargers. With a turbo you will see greater gains, probably about 20-30rwhp, which is great. The same goes for x pipes. (Which is good for us, right? Saves us money on that front.)
Long tube headers and a x pipe will work amazing with a cammed engine or one that had the heads cnc'd.

Jay@Hypermotive

I have a pretty long dialogue with a couple tuners regarding this, I'm not a full fledged tuner and still learning the "ropes" but decreased back pressure does decrease boost, I've experienced this on 3 blown mustangs so far. I don't have the ability to technically explain but I'm sure I can find the answer in my slew of tuning books.

Supra

This is true. Headers will decrease boost a little, but you will make more power.

MKMotorsport

The boost will go down with headers. Thinking about it from a non VVT type engine, or even a two stroke/tuned pipe combo, there is going to be times, even with a VVT engine where there is intake/exhaust overlap where both valves are open and flowing. To properly fill the cylinder, some extra unburnt mixture must be drawn through to the exhaust side. Obviously, this effect is far minimized in a modern VVT engine. My Tbird has a 292 degree duration cam in a Windsor based motor, and even properly carbed/jetted/tuned, etc... the fumes bring tears to the eyes almost like a nitro car (unburnt fuel in the exhaust at idle). There is such a long duration where both the intake and exhaust are both open. This is a great natural aspirated/high rpm cam, but would make for a miserable blower cam, because you would loose a lot of the boost during the unoptimal valve timing events. On the older motors a good blower cam would pay those duration/overlap and exhaust timing events special mind. A forced induction motor/cam combo is going to make power differently than a naturally aspirated one will. Does that mean headers are bad on a blown motor? heck no... just means you will start chasing down the road of next weakest links which is this hobby!