Trying to decide what direction to head next in my modification process.
I am not going to do a CAI/Tune since there would be warranty issues and really I am trying to stay away from mods tht will adversely affect the warranty.
I just had a MGW shifter installed and love it, nice solid shifting and great product.
My next thoughts are:
1. A one piece aluminum driveshaft which will eat up most of the $800

2. Upgrade the sway bars to adjustable, front and rear, from Hotchkis or Eibach, and maybe squeeze in some LCA's.

3. Change from 3.31 gears to 3.73 gears and have my dealer install them to keep warranty alive.

4. Add some miscellaneous mods, a LS transmission cooler scoop-110.00, Brembo 50d springs--149.00, LCA's --229.00 and try to squeeze in an upgrade to the panhard bar/brace.

5. Save a few more bucks and upgrade the exhaust to MRT Interceptors and H pipe.

6. Upgrade the caster/camber plates to either Ground Control--349.00 or Maximum Motorsports--337.00 plus install and alignment fees.

I am sure I could think up a few more but these mods seem the most beneficial.

At this point I do not plan to lower the car, from what i have read it can be a huge can of worms with additional mod requirements and NVH issues, tire wear issues and yes even handling issues.

I have the Brembo package so brakes/shocks/springs are good for now and I will change them when needed.

I am not a drag racer and my main goal is to have a daily driver that is very capable in the twisties.

Tell me what you think and which would be the best mods to start with for $800 bucks!

 

I'd do the FRPP Pro-cal and the 3.73's

 

When I get some cash together, I try to spend it on one thing. Its easier to come up with smaller amounts of cash for cheaper things, so I wouldnt do the miscellaneous stuff yet. So, depends in whats most important to you now. If you really want a nice sound now, Id say exhaust (and Id recommend Borla). If you want faster launches now, gears. Personally, Id probably do gears, then exhaust, then suspension, but if it isnt killing you to get new exhaust, Id put it third. The ds can wait a little bit until you have more power, especially if your not tracking. Just my .02.

EDIT: ProCal isnt a bad idea if you have a base warranty.

 

LCA's and a 1-piece driveshaft ..... any spring change can wait. The stock driveshaft drives me nuts with its clunking noises at low speeds, and the axle hop allowed by the stock LCA's was absolutely nuts.

The BMR LCA's I had installed have cured the axle hop issues my car had.
Still working on getting a new driveshaft though ...

 

I tell you what i'de do. Two chicks at the same time. I reckon with $800 I could hook something like that up.
At least in Nola.

Sorry had to.

 

^^^^Hahaha

 

This...if you can swing it.
Or at least a trip to the local "Chrome pole" parts store...not the same, but close and cheaper!

 

LOL on the chicks, but not a long lasting mod in my book.

The FRPP pro cal and gear swap would probably be cool but I bought the extended warranty so the tune will have to wait.

Like the idea of waiting on the minor mods, they probably won't make a huge difference whether they are done at once or piece by piece.
Like the driveshaft and LCA idea the best so far!

 

As a side note heading toward the LCA/driveshaft idea more..... Shaftmasters has their GT aluminum driveshaft on sale for $608 shipped until the end of the month, and it's a true bolt-in piece ... no swapping out the yoke or anything ... even comes with new bolts/Locktite ...

Yes, I want one BAD!

One thing about tubular LCA's ... they will amplify any whining that the rear diff might be putting out now ... mine had a little before, now I hear it at highway speeds quite clearly ... it's taken some time to get re-used to it, but it still sucks ...

 

I guess its really what you want at the end of your mods. As nice as the Caster Camber plates are, there is no reason to pick them up unless you'll seriously need to adjust camber. Without lowering your car or upgrading struts and shocks I think these will hold no value. As far as lowering your car, some parts are not necessary. I did not need an Adj PHB when I lowered with the Hotchkis springs but your car may be different. LCA's, are you having wheel hop issues? If so lowering an inch may rid those problems completely. One piece driveshaft, it may get rid of that 2 piece clunk but again you may not notice any difference.
Sway bars (if adjustable) will offer some performance increase especially in those awesome roads you have near you. Hotchkis and strano offer great adjustable sway bar sets.
You don't live too far from me, I can contact some buddies and have an install day in Hickory if you don't mind driving a couple hours. Springs take a little over an hour, a DS takes about an hour and mufflers seriously take about 30 minutes. You would need to pay for an allignment. Its too easy.

The difference you'll get from going to 3.73 will be noticed immediately, also the pro-cal does not void your warranty.

I'm not a big advocate on the pro-cal (sorry Doug).

 

Jay has some nice headers for sale for $800!

 

https://themustangsource.com/f722/fs...2013-a-516779/
Heres a start then go with some Koni shocks and struts to back them up. The drive shaft idea is one I went with and liked it. Its one of the few mods that pays for itself imo. My MGPG's actually went up. I would not go with a tune on the 5.0.

 

If warranty is your concern, save it for car washes and oil changes.

 

Headers require a tune.

 

Ha I missed that in the very first post didn't I? Lol

Jay already sold them anyways

 

Good for him. I was thinking about buying his but I'm trying to hold off on long tubes.

 

I'd buy my Stainless Works Headers with that 8 hunge.

 

Spend it on the suspension.

 

Add a few more hundred and you can pick-up some sticky tires.

 

GT 500 axle backs, JHR clutch line, JPC Breather packages, resonators delete, redline hood struts, and lastly boss 302 SS brake lines

BTW I miss TN Grew up about 45 minutes from Deals Gap!