Spent most of Saturday with some friends on the dyno... What do you guys think... ??

My mods are as follows: Boss 302 IM, AirRaid CAI, Kooks 1 7/8" LT headers and Hi Flow catted H mid pipe, Corsa Extreme Cat back Mufflers, 3.73 gears, 305/35/20 Mickey Thompson Street Cmp in the rear and 275/35/20 Nitto 555 in the front, Lund 93 Oct tune

 

Yeah,.....I'm not sure what's wrong, but those are almost stock rear wheels numbers, no? They seem on the low side. Especially with a Lund tune. How does the car run?
Is that dyno calibrated? Are your mods complimentary to each other? Those play a huge factor.
Good luck!

 

Yeah.. Im going to send the results back to Lund to see WTF is up ..

 

My 2012 Auto got 376 rwhp with only Bassani X-pipe, Flowmaster Hushpower and a Bama tune with a C & L CAI...so something is definitely not right. Good luck.

 

It's just a number. Not all Dyno's are created equal. I have seen some cars come off the Dyno with 300HP and run an 11 second quarter mile. Numbers can lie. The true test is to see what kind of times it pulls. People get too worked up over a dyno number. I have seen Dyno queen's pull of some awesome Dyno numbers and run ****ty quarter mile times, and wheel spin wasn't an issue. Do you want a track car or a Dyno queen? The only thing a Dyno is good for is to tune and check how your tune is under load.

When you tune a car on a dyno, there are only two things that happen. First you insure the fuel air curve is spot on. Dyno's are good for checking this under a load. Next is to set ignition timing. Typically you start a car on a dyno by retarding the ignition by about 4 degrees. Then with each pull you advance two degrees. You keep doing this until the HP no longer jumps up with each change in ignition timing. Once you get to that point, you set the timing back to the pull before. It's that easy. Dyno's are a crappy way to get a true HP reading. A dyno operator can just about make the Dyno give you any number you want. All you want to know is if your tune is setup up for optimum performance. A dyno accomplishes this well. Again isn't a great way to measure HP. Of course we all get wowed when someone pulls a high number but the reality is one car that dyno's at 400HP may kick the pants in on another car that pulls 500 HP. Assuming you compare cars of similar weight, etc. Again it's just a number.

If you want to know how fast your car is going to be, run it at the track. You'll find out how strong your setup is.

 

Thanks bro.. All I want is my car to run to the max under my tune. Thats it.

 

Anytime man. Most believe the dyno to be the end all be all, and it isn't. It's just a tool to dial a tune in.

 

Sounds like the car was run in 4th gear ... should've been 5th which is 1:1 in these cars.
Also, those guys talking in the video sound like they have no idea about these cars.
I would recommend you go elsewhere.

380/327 is waaayyy too low for that combo ... on a dynojet you should be at about 420+ rwhp

 

He will probably want to see the data log to check things out with the tune.

True. You might consider doing dyno runs before and after your mods to see what increase you were able to achieve. Other than tuning, that is where dyno numbers are most useful.

4th or 5th gear doesn't really matter that much. But I would expect to see a little more out of it. Maybe their calibration was slightly off?

 

Very true, provided you use the same dyne between mods. Like conducting an experiment. You need to keep everything the same except for what changed.

 

See this thread ... http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...-5th-gear.html

Guy went from 392 to 407 rwhp by going from 4th to 5th gear on the dyno.
That's a 15 rwhp difference ... I'd say it matters more than you might think.

 

There are so many factors that can screw with the numbers. Correct calibration, gear ran in, rear end gear, even wheels and tires make a difference. My old blue car would show nearly a 20 horse difference between my street tire/wheel combo vs my race tire/wheel combo. On the same day.

These guys are right the dyno is only a tool. And to what was already said me personally I would find a different shop that knows the Coyote cars.

 

Normally you would pick up a little horsepower on a 4th vs 5th gear run, but not much. It really depends on how the load against the rollers is being measured since the dyno can compute the drive ratio (engine RPM vs wheel speed). Different dynos use different methods of load measurement. That's interesting the horsepower readings were the inverse of normal in that thread...calibration problem?

 

Yes of course it matters. You need to run it on 1:1 ratio. Gabe's right. Numbers will be off otherwise if not calibrated correctly.

 

I have to disagree with the 1:1 ratio premiss. But this can be a very complex subject to discuss/explain. So I will submit the the quandary of two cars being dyno'd; one has a 3.15 rear gear, and the other has 4.10's. So do you run each in 4th gear (~1:1)??? Hmmm...

 

What did Lund have to say?

 

I just watched the video again... definitely take it to another shop. "IT SOUNDS GOOD!!!!!!!!!"

Your 93 Lund (one of the best) should put you at least at 400whp. 380whp is almost what stock 5.0's put down.

 

UPDATES??

 

I wonder whatever happened....

So what do these cars put down typically stock? 375?

 

^ anywhere between 350 and 375, depending on conditions that day, dyno, correction factors, etc.