I have read a lot of threads and have seen a lot of dyno sheets on tune + intake but very few with tune alone. I currently am bone stock 6mt with straight pipes from axle back.

Does anyone know of a dyno showing only tune and then adding an intake?

I am on a tight budget and need to spend wisely as there are other mods i want to do (tires/rims and hid's/grill)

What tuners are the most reputable? I know steeda seems to be consistently held in high regard where as bama seems to have more complaints lately. What atre other good options?

I have a bumper to bumper 7yr/ 100k mile.warranty on my 2 year old 12gt with 15k so the whole warranty issue is a concern for me. The whole cylinder #8 issue seems to be long in the past?

I have toyed with the idea of the frp tune but that inly has. 3yr/36k warranty so after that i would be in the same boat (warranty wise) as any other tune anyway.

 

You got extended B2B and you paid for it, forget any sort of tuning option. It's kind of one or the other, make up your mind.

...and you're right, this one has been gone over a million times and you'll still end up living with a decision you're comfortable with.

I got Procal partly because it had a stellar warranty and didn't affect anything else. Nothing, including standard PT warranty, is affected by Procal, as far as I can see. It just replaces the standard PT part of the New Vehicle Warranty with the FRPP one. There is nothing in docs that says it affects anything else. That's the closest thing to a safe choice you'll find. It really worked out well for me but, I ain't saying anyone else will see what I got out of it.

 

If your even a little bit concerned with warranty and really you should be as you have an extended one than you don't want a tune. Any tune will most likely void your powertrain warranty. I say most likely because there are a VERY few dealers that will still do warranty work should something go wrong but it's a serious risk I wouldn't take unless you know your dealers is one of them.

 

So the frpp procal bas its own 36k mir warranty and does NOT affect the oem warranty? I thought it replaced oem warranty and then when its done its done (ie, no more warranty at all?)

If i can pro cal and keep my b2b i would def do that. Realistically i looking for more bottom end/mid range which i hear the pro cal does a good job of. I have also considered 3.73's but thats $600 installed as i dont trust myself to tackle that project for fear of improper installation and gear whine.

 

I bet a tune without a intake to go with it would be a nice upgrade. I don't know if I would mess with the warranty though. Even though the dealership would have to prove it was your tune that caused any problem it would still be a pain to deal with. Do you have an auto or a manual?

 

Roost,

A failure from a tune, particularly our tunes is extremely rare. The tunes we send out are the same tunes used in our Steeda serialized vehicles sold through Ford dealers. Vehicles that are backed by a warranty, hence need to have a tune that is not going to cause us warranty issues.

Should an engine failure occur, we would work with the Ford dealer for proper diagnostics, this would include not only traditional diagnostics but things such as fuel octane testing and other techniques to fully determine the cause of failure. Should it be determined that indeed the tuning was the cause of the engine failure and not abuse, over revving, improper fuel octane, etc, then we would work with the customer on resolving the failure.

To date ... we have had 0 warranty issues with our tune & CAI installed on a consumer's car.

Go with a brand that you can trust that won't cause you issues - Steeda.

You can reach me at tim@steeda.com if I can help provide further support.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

Warranties need to be specific in their exclusions and nowhere does it say it affects any other aspect of the PT warranty, extended B2B or any other warranty on the car. It does say FRPP takes over the remaining post-tune PT portion of the 3 year New Car Limited Warranty specifically. Why Ford does this is probably because it's easier to write a new warranty than modify an existing one. The Warranty is a contract and carries legal weight like one.

You change gears yourself and that's the rear end portion of your PT warranty pretty much done. Steep gears in an 8.8 are always a bit of a crapshoot, noise-wise, even if factory installed. Similarly, you need to have a Ford dealer "install" the Procal and give you the documents to register the warranty.

 

Thanks for the input, everyone. I would for sure have a dealer install the procal if that is the route i went. From what i am gathering in all of my searches, the intake does have a gain on top of a tuned car but it appears to be a small portion of the overall gain (maybe 10-20%?) And for an extra $250 bucks it seems hard to justify.

That is good to know about the steeda tune being the same as the one in the factory warrantied cars. Do you by chance have any dyno comaprisons showing a stock baseline pull and then steeda tune only?

Now if only i could find a back to back same day- same car- dyno between a pro cal and an aftermarket tune, that would be very interesting to see.


Also, i have a m/t.

 

As others have said VERY FEW dealers will accept a tune, and even then more than likely inly certain ones. Id find a dealer that would take em and then try going with a Steeds or Procal tune.

 

Well thats the point of the procal- it retains the warranty and thus, one does not have to find a "tune friendly" dealer as it does not matter if they find out your tuned as its a ford racing product that would be registered with ford.

The steeda/bama/aed tunes on the other hand would require a "tune friendly" dealer so that any powertrain issues would bot be an issue should one pop up while tuned.

At thia point i will

 

You, sir, are a master of suspense. Well played.

 

Haha that was an accident. I should have just walked away and never touched the thread again.

I was going to say at this point gears are out...as i cant justify 600-700 to Ford to get them done correctly.

Hopefully.i can find a tune only dyno vs baseline so i can see the gains and where they are at. The frpp tune is seeming more appaealing solely to avoid warranty conflict.

 

Last I check we're referring to the programming provided by the ProCal tuner (just like the SCT or the Predator tuners) right? Last I checked that's a tune thats different than the stock factory programming of the ECU. Why does one aftermarket, non-factory tune call for a different dealer than another?

To me and pretty much any dealer in the business of making money it seems the same to me. The state of product has deviated from the stock issued state and thus the warranty may not apply.

As much as I'd love to tune my late run 2010 Coyote example I fail to be swayed by any of the marketing and hearsay regarding this as frankly, I don't think that would stand at the service writer's desk when he/she is advising you that the dealer and manufacturer has rejected the warranty claim based upon clear evidence of modification.

I think the best answer to the OP's question is: you gotta pay to play.

 

The pro cal tune is made by ford racing and has its own powertrain warranty that (as far as i know) does not affect the remainder of. person original warranty at all. So in my case, i have a bumper to bumper 100k warranty. Once the warranty that comes with the procal tune is up (2 years i think?) My bumper to bumper is still im effect, unchanged by the tune.

Where as if i got a third party companies tune (steeda, bama, aed etc etc) that comes loaded on a diablo or sct uner, those WILL void the powertrain warranty, should an issue arise. Now some people have cool service managers that will still do powertrain warranty work even if you ate modded but those dealers are few and far between.

The gains on the pro cal are not as high as the aftermarket tuners but still seems to be worthwhile, with the added benefit of an in tact warranty.

 

I've read several different posts and I think the best advice is speak to your service department at your dealer. I had 3 local dealers tell me that the procal voids all your warranty for your power train. It is replaced by the 3/36000 that Ford racing provides. I've read different responses on here but I believe what all your local dealers will say and put in writing is what your warranty is. I wouldn't put faith in what forum members or vendors say. Good luck in your choice. I hope all goes well.

 

This is exactly it.

 

Well that is in conflict with what i have read but yes i agree the pro cal would only happen if i have something in writing stating that my 100k b2b is untouched. I have already turned a 12.9 @107 my very first time ever to a track which was bone stock on the crappy 235 pirellis so realistically I am pretty satisified with the power for a street car.

 

This may not be exactly the data you're after, but....

My '11 5.0L (manual trans) with just GT500 mufflers and an SCT canned 92 octane tune put down 409 rwhp. That's with the factory airbox. I later added a Steeda CAI and adjusted tune to compensate for the metering, but did not get back to the dyno. However, my 1/4 ET's and trap speeds did NOT improve with the addition of the CAI (yes, comparable weather and density altitude). My conclusion was that the CAI did nothing (except look nice) and that the tune was where all the magic was.

 

You're right in your last couple statements, that's for sure. I'm going to harsh your mellow here a bit, though.

If the times in your sig are accurate for best: Best 1/8 Mile: 7.66 @ 89+ Best 1/4 Mile: 12.03 @ 113+

You aren't making 409 wheel horsepower. Taking an high-side race weight of about 3800 and calculating, you're looking at about 430 flywheel. Obviously less if the car weighs less.

 

Coyote's were never in 2010s. It's a 2011 model engine. If you referring to the build date it may have been late 10 but the vin will say 11. Pretty much every car I've ever worked on if it has a build date of oct-dec it's pretty much always the next model year vehicle even sometimes months before then are the same way. The build date doesn't always tell the correct year of the vehicle for that very reason.
Not sure why I bothered posting this other than I've had a ****ty last couple of days and just felt like pointing that out because it was bothering me. Carry on.