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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 11:00 PM
  #1  
SGwick's Avatar
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From: Illinois
Suspension Install

Finally installed my Tokico D-Spec/H&R Sport Springs/GT500 mounts/H&R camber bolts today...all day in my garage. I did alot of research and talked to my local auto shop about installs. It was my first time working on a car other than oil changes. Started early 0700 and didn't finish until 1600hrs. Although I took my time, I took long with the spring compressors and the rear shocks (unscrewing the bolts on top/stripped). Anyways, finally finished and I'll schedule an alignment asap. Not sure if its a placebo effect (knowing I installed a suspension upgrade) but braking is immediate and strong and bumps are absorbed/numb. I set the D-Specs to 6 in front and 5 for the rear (I'll keep playing around the few weeks). Bottom line: Well worth it (suspension upgrades and doing the install yourself) Alot of Stang owners on TMS have inspired me
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 06:49 AM
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Great!
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 06:59 AM
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From: Santa Rosa Beach, FL
Congrats on doing the install yourself! With patience, common sense, a torque wrench and decent instructions, there aren't many things you can't do on these cars.

The only thing I've not personally installed on my 2011 GT would be the exhaust. If I'd of had a welding machine, I'd of done that myself as well.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 07:06 AM
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Great job. Now get a pan hard bar to center that rear up.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SGwick
Finally installed my Tokico D-Spec/H&R Sport Springs/GT500 mounts/H&R camber bolts today...all day in my garage. I did alot of research and talked to my local auto shop about installs. It was my first time working on a car other than oil changes. Started early 0700 and didn't finish until 1600hrs. Although I took my time, I took long with the spring compressors and the rear shocks (unscrewing the bolts on top/stripped). Anyways, finally finished and I'll schedule an alignment asap. Not sure if its a placebo effect (knowing I installed a suspension upgrade) but braking is immediate and strong and bumps are absorbed/numb. I set the D-Specs to 6 in front and 5 for the rear (I'll keep playing around the few weeks). Bottom line: Well worth it (suspension upgrades and doing the install yourself) Alot of Stang owners on TMS have inspired me
Congrats on the install.

There is really no need for spring compressors though, and that may have made your day longer. Me and a friend did my spring install in 2hrs, and this was our first time. We also had a few little issues with the strut mounts, but it is a pretty straight forward install.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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Impact make the spring compressors go pretty quick
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 09:35 PM
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Impact equipment definitely would have cut down the time; Releasing compression while still attached...I wasn't 100% confident I'd be doing it right. I have the BMR adjustable panhard bar (was planning to install same time) but was just too tired. Should be alot easier with the bar though. Just came back from driving w/ the fam and the stang is sticking during turns...I like.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 11:26 AM
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From: Sarasota
Originally Posted by DBSaints
Impact make the spring compressors go pretty quick

There is no reason to use spring compressors!


Step one in the installation is to jack the car up and support it with jack stands. I put the front springs in first. I jacked the car up at the front engine cradle, just behind the front a-arm. I then supported the car with a jack stand under the cradle, freeing up my jack to support the lower a-arm.

Step two is to remove the upper strut mount nut.
***WARNING***It is a snap installing your new springs without a spring compressor if you're careful. Extreme caution should always be used when removing the upper strut nut. Springs store a lot of energy, and can hurt you if the proper removal and installation procedure isn't followed. Do not remove the large 21mm nut on top of the strut unless the car's weight is supported. If your jack is placed under the front lower control arm, this will slightly compress the spring and allow removal of the upper strut nut without movement of the spring.

Once you've removed the upper strut nut, remove the 10mm bolt that holds the brake hose bracket to the strut assembly, as well as the 18mm nut that holds the sway bar end link to the strut body, and the plastic push-pin that holds the abs wire to the strut.

Slowly and carefully lower your jack. This will release the pressure from your spring, and the strut shaft will lower beneath the upper strut mount. Keep your hands and feet clear of the lower control arm.

Once the lower control arm is completely off the jack, and the spring is relaxed, remove the 2 18mm bolts from the lower strut mount at the spindle, and remove the 4 13mm nuts that attach the upper strut mount to the body. This will allow the entire strut assembly and spring to be removed from the car.

The new springs are much shorter, negating the need for a spring compressor. To install the new springs, simply replace the strut boot with the shorter one from the kit, and set the new spring on the strut body, aligning the ends of the spring with the reliefs in the strut and the upper mount. You can then install the upper strut mount on the strut and use one hand to depress the spring just enough to re-install the 21mm upper strut mount nut onto the strut shaft before tightening it down.

Reverse the disassembly procedure to re-install the completed strut assembly back on the car.

The rear of the car is a bit easier.

Jack the rear of the car up at the rear differential.
Support the car with jack stands. There is a flat spot just in front of the rear lower control arm that serves as a great place to set your jack stands.

With the jack still supporting the car's rear, remove the 15mm bolts that hold the shocks to the lower mounts, as well as the 15mm bolts that hold the sway bar end links to the body. You may also remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the brake hose brackets to the body to gain additional travel for easier removal of the spring.

Lower the sway bar out of the way.

Slowly lower the rear end, allowing the car to settle on the jack stands. As the rear droops, pressure will be released from the rear springs, allowing you to simply remove them by hand.

here is the link http://www.mylrs.com/blogs/lrs/archi...tallation.aspx
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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Wow! after some more reading I think I have the rear springs upside down. Should the tighter coils on the rear springs be towards the top (that would mean the H&R logo would be right side up)? I installed the tighter coils towards the bottom (logo updside down). ****! I got a bad feeling about this....
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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Pretty sure you installed them wrong. I'd get them off asap and fix it.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackMamba03
Pretty sure you installed them wrong. I'd get them off asap and fix it.
Thanks BlackMamba03; gave just enough time (daylight) to turn my springs over. Good thing I did, the springs looked squished together on the bottom. Now they looked compressed (in a good way/not distorted). Passed by Sears earlier today and bought an adapter for my dewalt drill so I could use my sockets...worked like a dream (felt like Tony Stewart's pit crew :-))
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:34 AM
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From: Iowa
Originally Posted by SGwick
Thanks BlackMamba03; gave just enough time (daylight) to turn my springs over. Good thing I did, the springs looked squished together on the bottom. Now they looked compressed (in a good way/not distorted). Passed by Sears earlier today and bought an adapter for my dewalt drill so I could use my sockets...worked like a dream (felt like Tony Stewart's pit crew :-))

Good man. Glad you got the springs fixed. Driving around with upside down springs = . Car probably rides alot better now.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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A couple points.

The rear springs were upside down... but it would make zero difference in the ride. The soft end is the soft end no matter if it's up or down. The rates are what they are, and work the way they work. Right side up just lessens unsprung weight a touch.

As for not using a spring compressor. You can... but it's not particularly wise. Doing it the way you might have seen on TV puts a lot of side load on the strut mounts as the spring bows as the strut is lowered making it more likely to fail. Also it's hard to make sure the spring pigtail is seated properly in the upper mount since you can't see it.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sam strano
A couple points.

The rear springs were upside down... but it would make zero difference in the ride. The soft end is the soft end no matter if it's up or down. The rates are what they are, and work the way they work. Right side up just lessens unsprung weight a touch.

As for not using a spring compressor. You can... but it's not particularly wise. Doing it the way you might have seen on TV puts a lot of side load on the strut mounts as the spring bows as the strut is lowered making it more likely to fail. Also it's hard to make sure the spring pigtail is seated properly in the upper mount since you can't see it.
I didn't see it on TV.... I read a few install threads/how to's and seemed reasonable. Don't really know about the bowing part, as you support the A-Arm with the jack and light pressure (maybe 2-3 pumps of the jack).... remove upper strut nut, lower spring/release pressure, remove spindle bolts and spring will drop straight down?
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 09:52 AM
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It's not correct. It might "work" but it puts a lot of undue stress on the upper strut mounts, which are a known weak spot to begin with.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #16  
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Wow! Gents I appreciate the knowledge being passed on. I've only been a TMS member since Apr'11 and read alot of the discussions but I think I've reached a milestone when respected stang owner Mr. Sam Strano comments on my thread (I know it's in response to another...someone here is going to point that out :-))
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 05:28 PM
  #17  
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Just installed my BMR adjust panhard bar over lunch using a auto lift. Real easy and using grease fitting for poly bushing
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sam strano
It's not correct. It might "work" but it puts a lot of undue stress on the upper strut mounts, which are a known weak spot to begin with.

Sam, not trying to be argumentative but how does it put more stress on the mount? The suspension hangs when you lift the car and then compress' when you put it back on the ground. The amount of pressure applied for this task is far less than if the spring was compressed and fully supporting the entire car..? I can't see how this light pressure for moments is more than the mount takes on a daily basis.

Last edited by 05-1947; Oct 13, 2011 at 05:45 PM.
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 09:42 AM
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Just had alignment done. I lucked out :-) My shocks/struts/springs/mounts were all within tolerances (camber, caster), just adjusted front toe (in). Thread closed.
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