Supercharge a 2013 GT- Yes or No
#1
Supercharge a 2013 GT- Yes or No
Will a 2013 GT hold up and give me decent life out of the motor?
I am looking at keeping boost at 7 psi and I am not looking to push the tune to the outer limits at all. Street car. Not a DD. I would be happy with 550 HP.
What are your thoughts? Any tips.
I am looking at keeping boost at 7 psi and I am not looking to push the tune to the outer limits at all. Street car. Not a DD. I would be happy with 550 HP.
What are your thoughts? Any tips.
#2
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There's a reason they refer to supercharging as "The Dark Side", meaning temptation is strong, and once you go over, you'll never go back. If you're not concerned with warranty and you've got the budget, I think one of the more conservative kits is the way to go...the 600+hp kits just seem like overkill and they overpower the platform, which we all know is a great driver. I think it'd be a hell of a good time.
#3
I've had the Roush SC on my 2013 Gt for a year and a half with no issues what so ever mechanical. I have enjoyed every minute it's been on with absolutely no regrets! If you go with the phase 1 Roush and the very conservative Roush tune you'll be looking at around 530 hp at the wheels.
If your budget allows it you will want to get some supporting mods down the road.
If your budget allows it you will want to get some supporting mods down the road.
#4
Roush Forum Stalker
I've had the Roush SC on my 2013 Gt for a year and a half with no issues what so ever mechanical. I have enjoyed every minute it's been on with absolutely no regrets! If you go with the phase 1 Roush and the very conservative Roush tune you'll be looking at around 530 hp at the wheels.
If your budget allows it you will want to get some supporting mods down the road.
If your budget allows it you will want to get some supporting mods down the road.
My car is a 2013 Roush Stage 3 from Roush. I have a remaining 3 year warranty and the car pulls great, is quick and loud. No problems if you stay under "engine catastrophe" zone. 7lbs of boost should not going to be a problem.
GOOD LUCK!
#5
Im going to go with the Roush phase 1 blower kit myself. I dont want much more than 500whp for my car becouse i daily drive mine. The factory HP is actually pretty close to what i would consider enough power for a daily diver but i want that blower whine haha! Good luck with your choice!
#6
Id recommend staying away from the roots style blower then, as they lay down power in the bottom end, the mustang from stock ratings burns the tires as it is. The roots blower falls on its face in high rpm... Horrible!
Now going with a V-3 vortech, that's a different story, all top end power. I speak from experience as I have one in my 13 GT and could not be happier.
Given the numbers you want to reach, this motor is more than capable of handling 600 rwhp...even if you want to stay at 550 the power is addictive and you don't want to say latter on" man I wish I would have done this differently" that's a lot of cash to put down and not be happy.
Do lots and lots of research, that's what I recommend. From going with a blower though make sure you get a set of the colder plugs... I went with NGK 6500's and gapped them to .030
If you stay at 550 rwhp then your fuel system should hold up fine with that... I believe the 47 lbs injectors supplied are ok for it. Now if you go to 600 rwhp it's time to do it right... ID1000's and a boost a pump is recommend as this will give you the guarantee there will always be enough fuel supplied. Plus tuners love working with these injectors, there the best on the market.
That all being said toss the tune provided from what ever kit you purchase and go with a reputable tuner.
I personally went with Jon Lund from Lund racing and I would highly recommend him.
If you take the vortech path... Contact terry from beefcake racing as he has the best kits available for the set up and has done extensive R&D to prove it.
I hoped this helps in some way.
Welcome to the dark side!!!
Do lots and lots of
Now going with a V-3 vortech, that's a different story, all top end power. I speak from experience as I have one in my 13 GT and could not be happier.
Given the numbers you want to reach, this motor is more than capable of handling 600 rwhp...even if you want to stay at 550 the power is addictive and you don't want to say latter on" man I wish I would have done this differently" that's a lot of cash to put down and not be happy.
Do lots and lots of research, that's what I recommend. From going with a blower though make sure you get a set of the colder plugs... I went with NGK 6500's and gapped them to .030
If you stay at 550 rwhp then your fuel system should hold up fine with that... I believe the 47 lbs injectors supplied are ok for it. Now if you go to 600 rwhp it's time to do it right... ID1000's and a boost a pump is recommend as this will give you the guarantee there will always be enough fuel supplied. Plus tuners love working with these injectors, there the best on the market.
That all being said toss the tune provided from what ever kit you purchase and go with a reputable tuner.
I personally went with Jon Lund from Lund racing and I would highly recommend him.
If you take the vortech path... Contact terry from beefcake racing as he has the best kits available for the set up and has done extensive R&D to prove it.
I hoped this helps in some way.
Welcome to the dark side!!!
Do lots and lots of
#7
Bullitt Member
Manual or automatic?
My '14 GT has the auto and I went with the Roush phase 1 SC. It's probably one of the mildest setups going for forced induction if you use the Roush supplied 91 octane/6R80 calibration like I do. Good all around SC choice for a daily driver, but you will need wider/stickier tires to get the power down.
My '14 GT has the auto and I went with the Roush phase 1 SC. It's probably one of the mildest setups going for forced induction if you use the Roush supplied 91 octane/6R80 calibration like I do. Good all around SC choice for a daily driver, but you will need wider/stickier tires to get the power down.
#8
Let us know if we can help you out. There's a reason why FRPP, Roush and Whipple go with "roots" or "PD" style blowers. I've personally seen a roush 2.3 Coyote car go 100k on the motor before the blower itself needed to change the oil in it.
We're master dealers for Vortech, Paxton and Roush, we're also dealers for VMP and Whipple. We've done our homework and done our best to support those that daily their car as well. We also made 610 on a BAP with 47lbs injectors without coming close to maxing the injector duty cycle, the PD blowers are fun and instant torque for those guys looking to make much power without really having to worry about it.
Any questions at all just give us a shout!
We're master dealers for Vortech, Paxton and Roush, we're also dealers for VMP and Whipple. We've done our homework and done our best to support those that daily their car as well. We also made 610 on a BAP with 47lbs injectors without coming close to maxing the injector duty cycle, the PD blowers are fun and instant torque for those guys looking to make much power without really having to worry about it.
Any questions at all just give us a shout!
#9
Let us know if we can help you out. There's a reason why FRPP, Roush and Whipple go with "roots" or "PD" style blowers. I've personally seen a roush 2.3 Coyote car go 100k on the motor before the blower itself needed to change the oil in it. We're master dealers for Vortech, Paxton and Roush, we're also dealers for VMP and Whipple. We've done our homework and done our best to support those that daily their car as well. We also made 610 on a BAP with 47lbs injectors without coming close to maxing the injector duty cycle, the PD blowers are fun and instant torque for those guys looking to make much power without really having to worry about it. Any questions at all just give us a shout!
#10
Pushing the car to 640 on 47lbs injectors the car started running lean around 6k RPM.
#11
Let me clarify some of my information.
I would be happy with around 550hp at the crank. That would mean I would around 475 at the wheels. I will not be doing any other upgrades related to supercharging. The mods will be some suspension work, one piece DS, Long Tube Headers, better tires. I will be selling in about 2-3 years.
Will this motor hold up when you add a Supercharger? That is a main question. Will the supercharger need maintenance?
Any other tips and/or ideas are very helpful.
I would be happy with around 550hp at the crank. That would mean I would around 475 at the wheels. I will not be doing any other upgrades related to supercharging. The mods will be some suspension work, one piece DS, Long Tube Headers, better tires. I will be selling in about 2-3 years.
Will this motor hold up when you add a Supercharger? That is a main question. Will the supercharger need maintenance?
Any other tips and/or ideas are very helpful.
#12
Mach 1 Member
If you don't want crazy HP, you might consider the Edelbrock e-Force. It has one of the easiest installs, no cutting. It also has an inverted design, which allows for longer runners, for more low end grunt. I have the stage one, which is about 530 to the wheels.(Brenspeed tune)
It's also smog legal and you can get a 3 or 5 year warranty with it. You have to check the coolant every month or so, but self contained oil lasts 100K miles. The Coyote engine will handle anything under 600 RWHP, as long as you are not beating the crap out of it regularly.
Check this out: http://www.mustangandfords.com/proje...n-boss-part-2/
It's also smog legal and you can get a 3 or 5 year warranty with it. You have to check the coolant every month or so, but self contained oil lasts 100K miles. The Coyote engine will handle anything under 600 RWHP, as long as you are not beating the crap out of it regularly.
Check this out: http://www.mustangandfords.com/proje...n-boss-part-2/
Last edited by TommyV; 12/16/14 at 12:42 PM.
#13
Roush Forum Stalker
If you don't want crazy HP, you might consider the Edelbrock e-Force. It has one of the easiest installs, no cutting. It also has an inverted design, which allows for longer runners, for more low end grunt. I have the stage one, which is about 530 to the wheels.(Brenspeed tune)
It's also smog legal and you can get a 3 or 5 year warranty with it. You have to check the coolant every month or so, but self contained oil lasts 100K miles. The Coyote engine will handle anything under 600 RWHP, as long as you are not beating the crap out of it regularly.
Check this out: http://www.mustangandfords.com/proje...n-boss-part-2/
It's also smog legal and you can get a 3 or 5 year warranty with it. You have to check the coolant every month or so, but self contained oil lasts 100K miles. The Coyote engine will handle anything under 600 RWHP, as long as you are not beating the crap out of it regularly.
Check this out: http://www.mustangandfords.com/proje...n-boss-part-2/
The Chevy guys are using that supercharger on their Camaros with good success.
#16
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Maybe next year I will venture into the dark side of FI. I would also like to take my track pack GT up a notch in the suspension to perhaps equal the Boss 302 package. Like to retain comfortable drive-ability. Don't think I can bear to thrash it on the strip.
#17
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#18
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I've had the Roush SC on my 2013 Gt for a year and a half with no issues what so ever mechanical. I have enjoyed every minute it's been on with absolutely no regrets! If you go with the phase 1 Roush and the very conservative Roush tune you'll be looking at around 530 hp at the wheels.
If your budget allows it you will want to get some supporting mods down the road.
If your budget allows it you will want to get some supporting mods down the road.
Roush Phase 1 kit is 575hp at flywheel with 15% drivetrain loss for a manual you're looking at the 488rwhp mark. Roush Phase 2 is 625hp at the flywheel. That'd be your 530rwhp. Numbers would be slightly less with a auto.
5.0L are great motors but their breaking point is the water jackets being too big. 5.0L coyote motors are the first motors from Ford without a support in the water jacket that they've run since the 80's. 575rwhp is as far as they should be pushed without the water jackets being pinned. L&M has a nice setup for that. Doesn't matter if you do a fully forged rotating assembly in your motor, if it's not pinned the cylinder walls will go egg shaped and blowout at 12 o'clock into the water jacket(attachments show this on a built 5.0L). Ford Racing has a fix for it with their race blocks(attachment with blue paint in valley) which aren't currently available yet. Notice how there is supports in the water jackets now and even some of them are blocked off now. Interesting part is the water jackets aren't even needed to be that big, the head gasket only has two 1/8 steam holes for each cylinder.
Last edited by BLEWBIU; 12/31/14 at 02:14 PM.
#19
On the other subject, I've seen yours and others post on other chat boards... I'm not debating your statement but I am curious who came up with the 575HP number? I know there are lots of people and vendors (a few on this chat board alone) that are running a tad north of 600 with no reported issues.
Last edited by GT50GO; 12/31/14 at 09:50 AM.
#20
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Own experience, Roush seems to agree with their Phase 3 675hp at the flywheel to be the limit. I say 575rwhp because that seems to be where they hold up too with a small window for elbow room. That is honestly a lot of power and makes for a fun fast car.