Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER (Post 7002804)

Hey Rene, I'm an engineer and I work in the auto industry on controls software. I think Steeda's request makes a lot of sense. Here is why.

Every engine control unit does some adaptive optimization of vital parameters, like spark advance, air fuel ratio, timing etc. The original software programmed into the engine has a nominal range to all those parameters. Let's say that the factory setting for parameter X is 25 to 50 degrees, with most mustangs running ~35 degrees nominal on average. There are going to be outlines out there, meaning a few Mustangs will run 26 while a few others are running at 49. This can be due to worst case tolerance stack ups, manufacturing deviations, or things being assembles or calibrated just a little off center.

So to me it sounds like your car is one of the ones operating closer to the lower or upper bound. Steeda's tune counts on your car being closer to the nominal value, but it simply is not.

So instead of taking a guess (which is what they would have to do without real data) they are asking you to go back to stock and datalog. This way they can make an educated decision which way to go with their parameter settings. Closer to 25 or closer to 50 in my example. That's what I would do as well. Engineers NEED data.

Hope this helps. :nice:

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER (Post 7002804)

Hey Rene, I'm an engineer and I work in the auto industry on controls software. I think Steeda's request makes a lot of sense. Here is why.

Every engine control unit does some adaptive optimization of vital parameters, like spark advance, air fuel ratio, timing etc. The original software programmed into the engine has a nominal range to all those parameters. Let's say that the factory setting for parameter X is 25 to 50 degrees, with most mustangs running ~35 degrees nominal on average. There are going to be outlines out there, meaning a few Mustangs will run 26 while a few others are running at 49. This can be due to worst case tolerance stack ups, manufacturing deviations, or things being assembles or calibrated just a little off center.

So to me it sounds like your car is one of the ones operating closer to the lower or upper bound. Steeda's tune counts on your car being closer to the nominal value, but it simply is not.

So instead of taking a guess (which is what they would have to do without real data) they are asking you to go back to stock and datalog. This way they can make an educated decision which way to go with their parameter settings. Closer to 25 or closer to 50 in my example. That's what I would do as well. Engineers NEED data.

Hope this helps. :nice:

Originally Posted by tj@steeda (Post 7002806)

Think of it this way ... if the tune is that good with the stock air box, you may not want to go back to the K & N - another member may want it, putting you in the green.

Trust me, I understand the amount of money you have invested thus far & time spent going through the process - I just want to see this through & take that final step!.


TJ

Originally Posted by EF1 (Post 7002805)

If it runs anything like mine with the Steeda CAI and Tune it will be worth it.

Originally Posted by renee29581 (Post 7002809)

ok thanks for chiming in. I will try to do it tomorrow since everything worked out with my semester of school. I'm officially on break!!! Woohoo

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER (Post 7002833)

Congrats on being done with school for the semester!

This reminds me. I have a Steeda CAI and tuner combo sitting in the basement waiting for spring to install. There is about 14" of snow outside right now :doh:

I will take a few dataloging traces of cold idle, warm idle and driving around before I put the Steeda intake on. This way if I have issues I will already have a baseline datalog. :)

Originally Posted by tj@steeda (Post 7003435)

Renee,

Have you been able to remove the K & N & load the tune?

As others have said ... you are going to be very happy once we get the tune loaded with the stock airbox.

Best Regards,

TJ

Originally Posted by Mr. V (Post 7003479)

This is a dumb question but I'll ask anyway. After I installed my tune my oil life meter and tire pressure monitor stopped working. I'm assuming this is just happenstance and has nothing to do with my tune. Am I wrong?

Originally Posted by Mr. V (Post 7003479)

This is a dumb question but I'll ask anyway. After I installed my tune my oil life meter and tire pressure monitor stopped working. I'm assuming this is just happenstance and has nothing to do with my tune. Am I wrong?

Originally Posted by 2012GT

There's no reason for that to happen installing a tune. Did it reset them or they are just now set at 0?

Originally Posted by Mr. V (Post 7003872)

The oil life stays at 100% no matter what. The tpms just doesn't work. I check my pressure all the time out of habit and I had a low tire and no warning. I also swapped the rims to my winter set and nothing happened.

Originally Posted by Mr. V (Post 7003872)

The oil life stays at 100% no matter what. The tpms just doesn't work. I check my pressure all the time out of habit and I had a low tire and no warning. I also swapped the rims to my winter set and nothing happened.

Originally Posted by EF1

After reading this I checked my oil life monitor it is still sitting at 100% as well. I can't remember the last time that I reset it. I change my oil based on mileage, not the oil life meter, so I never noticed before. I am not sure about the tpms, but I assume it is not working either as well. The tire pressure light usually comes on when it gets colder out and I add a couple pounds. It hasn't happened lately either, but I haven't been driving the car much either.

Originally Posted by EF1 (Post 7004252)

tj@steeda any info on the oil life monitor/tpms affects of the Steeda tunes yet?