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Starting mods for Daily Driver

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Old 1/1/13, 07:09 AM
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Starting mods for Daily Driver

I just purchased my 2011 5.0 and am using it as my daily driver (at least I will be once the snow goes away ). Right now it is still under warranty for another 9 months, and I need help finding starting mods that will not interfere with the warranty. My goal is to get it to around 450rwhp when the warranty finally expires, but I am not sure what I can do right now that won't interfere with the warranty.

Last edited by D1030; 1/1/13 at 07:12 AM.
Old 1/1/13, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by D1030
I just purchased my 2011 5.0 and am using it as my daily driver (at least I will be once the snow goes away ). Right now it is still under warranty for another 9 months, and I need help finding starting mods that will not interfere with the warranty. My goal is to get it to around 450rwhp when the warranty finally expires, but I am not sure what I can do right now that won't interfere with the warranty.
Put the power you already have to the ground first with LCAs, UCAs & brackets and/or tires, if you need any of that. Its only 9 months so then you can add a mani, tune, etc. Congrats BTW!
Old 1/1/13, 02:31 PM
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Ask the parts department at your dealership for a Ford Racing Performance Parts catalog, I got one for free from Tasca's Mod Shop, but it might run you like $5. If you want to keep the warranty intact the safest way to do it is to buy Ford parts, if you want to be even safer have the dealer install them too. Good ones from Ford would be the ProCal tuner and drop in filter, GT500 mufflers, and I may be a little biased but the FRPP MGTAA handling package is amazing. If you don't want to get too carried away try pairing some FRPP K springs with the mods that Wheelman mentioned.
Old 1/2/13, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by USMC:302
Ask the parts department at your dealership for a Ford Racing Performance Parts catalog, I got one for free from Tasca's Mod Shop, but it might run you like $5. If you want to keep the warranty intact the safest way to do it is to buy Ford parts, if you want to be even safer have the dealer install them too. Good ones from Ford would be the ProCal tuner and drop in filter, GT500 mufflers, and I may be a little biased but the FRPP MGTAA handling package is amazing. If you don't want to get too carried away try pairing some FRPP K springs with the mods that Wheelman mentioned.
Thanks just looked up the ProCal tuner, and it looks like it's great for around town especially since I only have 3.55s. Also do you know if I would be allowed to run a Steeda CAI with this? Also should I skip long tubes and just do an O/R x-pipe when the time comes?

Last edited by D1030; 1/2/13 at 03:43 AM.
Old 1/2/13, 06:12 AM
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No Steeda CAI only a K&N drop in or a non tune CAI like Roush or Airaid. Skip the long tubes and just stick with o/r pipe. You are not going to get 450 rwhp but you can get into the 430's if you get a real tune, CAI, O/R pipe and a Boss intake.
Old 1/2/13, 07:53 AM
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I'd start with cat-backs. They're not going to give you any significant power increase but they add so much to the driving experience. The stock mufflers on the GTs are universally considered to be too quiet and you miss out on half the fun of driving a muscle car.

The GT500s are relatively cheap and have excellent sound quality while not be obnoxiously loud.
Old 1/2/13, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by wheelman
Put the power you already have to the ground first with LCAs, UCAs & brackets and/or tires, if you need any of that. Its only 9 months so then you can add a mani, tune, etc. Congrats BTW!
+1 for suspension, no point in making power if you can translate it to the ground. Plus the car will be more fun with stock power but good suspension.
Old 1/2/13, 08:40 PM
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I just ordered my first mods,Roush UCA,FRPP LCA,55D Springs,gt500 axleback,i already have a Barton 2 post bracket.Power will be the last mods,first i want the slop out of the car.
Old 1/3/13, 10:08 AM
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Yeah I am going to go with the suspension first. Should I wait to get a more aggressive tune from Steeda or will the ProCal tuner work? Although this is my daily driver it will be driven at the track occasionally. Is the low end gain as good with the Steeda tune?
Old 1/3/13, 10:38 AM
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We have very good tunes that will keep your car safe and give you adequate power. With our CAI and tun we have achieved dramatic power increases of up to 44hp and 52ft/lbs of torque!

We use the same tune/CAI on all of our serialized cars that we build.

Just remember ... just because you put a part on your car it does not automatically void the warranty. Just a little Steeda history for you ... we have 0 #8 issues or warranty claims when our products have been directly installed on a consumers car.

We have a great history with Ford and design/engineer/and manufacture the Steeda parts right here in the U.S.A.

Please let me know if you have any questions or if I can provide some forum pricing for any the parts that you are looking at?

Best Regards,

TJ
Old 1/3/13, 06:32 PM
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TJ,

Do y'all a Cam Tune available for the 2013 yet? I ordered a tune less than a month ago and I was told that the Cam Tune was not written yet for the 2013 GT's. Any progress with SCT ?
Old 1/4/13, 01:44 PM
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After reading through the forums I'm considering going the Roush supercharger route instead. I'm going to start with LCAs and UCAs. Any recommendations on which LCAs and UCAs to buy?
Old 1/4/13, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by D1030
After reading through the forums I'm considering going the Roush supercharger route instead. I'm going to start with LCAs and UCAs. Any recommendations on which LCAs and UCAs to buy?
Lots of guys have used the FRPP LCA's, I know of a guy that races his mustang at Summit and is an instructor for the SCCA that has the Steeda UCA and loves it, said it doesn't add and NVH but is much better then stock.
Old 2/13/13, 03:50 AM
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Sorry to revive the old thread but will kooks headers and catted x or h pipe be too loud for a daily driver if I keep all other exhaust parts stock? And before I buy a UCA will I need to lower my car if I plan to eventually put it to 700-800hp crank with an aluminator?

Last edited by D1030; 2/13/13 at 04:30 AM.
Old 2/13/13, 07:03 AM
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the best mods to boost hp fast and easy that wont void your warranty would be a cold air intake, tuner and installing an 85MM throttle body. I have a 2012 GTCS and mine boosted from 412 to approximately 480 still have to dyno it. mine was a JLT CIA, SCT Tune and a Bkk 85mm throttle body. cost for the parts approximately 1200.00.

BE FORE WARNED. the factory warranty is always up for debate on whether or not things will void it. Each dealer is different and it really comes down to the fact of whether or not the mod created the issue you may have.
Old 2/13/13, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by D1030
Sorry to revive the old thread but will kooks headers and catted x or h pipe be too loud for a daily driver if I keep all other exhaust parts stock? And before I buy a UCA will I need to lower my car if I plan to eventually put it to 700-800hp crank with an aluminator?
I maybe the wrong person to answer this question, but NO... not too loud, IMHO. If you are planning on reaching those power levels, I would wait to put headers on the Aluminator set-up.

You will not need to wait to put in an UCA before lowering...

Getting over 400hp to the wheels is doable with a few select mods and a proper tune. Just do it. I, too, was nervous to mess with the stock engine calibration. I have about 11 months left on the warranty... custom dyno tune being done in 3 weeks and headers/catted x-pipe to be installed(and re-tuned) no later than April, I hope.

Research for a cat-back exhaust system... UCA, LCA, and Upper 3rd Link(Relocation Brackets not needed, unless you are lowered)... Quality summer-only tires(forget all-season rubber!).
Old 2/14/13, 03:29 AM
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Sorry what I meant was will it be necessary to lower my car if I plan on supercharging it?
Old 2/14/13, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by J Tennu
I maybe the wrong person to answer this question, but NO... not too loud, IMHO. If you are planning on reaching those power levels, I would wait to put headers on the Aluminator set-up.

You will not need to wait to put in an UCA before lowering...

Getting over 400hp to the wheels is doable with a few select mods and a proper tune. Just do it. I, too, was nervous to mess with the stock engine calibration. I have about 11 months left on the warranty... custom dyno tune being done in 3 weeks and headers/catted x-pipe to be installed(and re-tuned) no later than April, I hope.

Research for a cat-back exhaust system... UCA, LCA, and Upper 3rd Link(Relocation Brackets not needed, unless you are lowered)... Quality summer-only tires(forget all-season rubber!).
The big thing you have to worry about on exhaust upgrades is that in these new Coyote's you have to worry about drone. these drones can be very load and annoying at higher speeds. I went with a Ford racing X-pipe and GT500 Mufflers to avoid this issue. It is a little bit louder but does not drone. I suggest contacting The ford racing techs and asking them what you need to do to get what you want. I did form my change and was not disappointed.
Old 2/14/13, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BRADGTCS
the best mods to boost hp fast and easy that wont void your warranty would be a cold air intake, tuner and installing an 85MM throttle body. I have a 2012 GTCS and mine boosted from 412 to approximately 480 still have to dyno it. mine was a JLT CIA, SCT Tune and a Bkk 85mm throttle body. cost for the parts approximately 1200.00.

BE FORE WARNED. the factory warranty is always up for debate on whether or not things will void it. Each dealer is different and it really comes down to the fact of whether or not the mod created the issue you may have.
Dafuq? Tune voids warranty. Might want to call you local dealer and recheck lol. Ford has tsb about aftermarket tuning and engine problems

Last edited by texastboneking; 2/14/13 at 11:23 AM.
Old 2/14/13, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by texastboneking
Dafuq? Tune voids warranty. Might want to call you local dealer and recheck lol. Ford has tsb about aftermarket tuning and engine problems
well my dealer did not. they suggested a clutch issue might be the result of the tuner and suggested that I should go back to the original tune. When I explained it was happening before the tune they did not argue and looked further. Unfortunately they could not produce the pedal sticking. This is why you should always check with a dealer and the answer you may get may not always be the same.


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