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Starting to mod my 5.0!

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Old 10/25/13, 12:04 AM
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Starting to mod my 5.0!

So I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on a tune with a steeda CAI.

So far all I've done is an sr strut tower brace.

So far my build list includes:
Boss 302 mani
Ford racing 90mm T.B.
Kooks long tubes & o/r x pipe
4.10 gears
Stage 3 comp cams
Kw v3 coil overs
Maximum motorsports c&c plates
Ford racing front & rear sway bars
Brembo brake pack

I also need to do pistons & rods, but can't figure out where to find some high performance ones.
I'm not sure what size fuel injectors I should go with. I plan on tracking the car with a centrifugal super charger.
Would fuel rails be worth it or should I hold off on that for now?
I've been debating wether an aluminum one piece drive shaft would be worth while.
What about launch controller? Pros/cons?

I know I need to beef up my trans quite a bit too but not sure what parts to go with.

Being new at this I know I'm missing something, so please any ideas and words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated!
Old 10/25/13, 08:19 AM
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That's one of hell of a build list. Your GT will be insane once finished!

Assuming you want to stick with 93 octane pump gas, there's no need to upgrade the stock fuel injectors or fuel rails. Both of these stock parts can support 600rwhp on pump gas. Now if you're converting to E85, that's a different story.

Forged pistons and rods would be a nice upgrade if you're tracking the car and it's seeing a lot of extended WOT. Just about any Engine Builder or Speed Shop you go to will have a few options and recommendations on which is best for your build. I suggest finding a reputable shop you trust and talk to them before purchasing any internal engine parts. Also, start to figure what kind of cylinder compression you're interested in. Remember, if running E85 you can benefit a lot from a higher CR, than when using pump gas.

An aluminum driveshaft is a must with a setup like this. You'll easily be making 600rwhp with the supercharger and again- extended WOT will wear the stock DS quickly. Breaking a DS is not something you want to experience either!

As for the transmission- the absolute best upgrade would be to switch to a TR6060 or T56 Magnum XL (basically the same trans). Not only are these transmissions much stronger, but they have a traditional 1:1 gear ratio for 4th gear. Opposed to the factory MT-82, which doesn't hit 1:1 until 5th gear- meaning the first 4 gears are even shorter than normal.

As you can see there's a lot of different approaches to take with this build. The good news is there's a ton of solid tech info on this forum, which will help your decisions. Also, feel free to contact me if you have any other questions. I'd be happy to help!

Shane

Last edited by AMWill; 10/25/13 at 08:27 AM.
Old 10/25/13, 02:54 PM
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Skip the throttle body, skip the gears, skip the fuel rails, skip the cams, skip the..........

Your list needs a lot of work. Are you an auto or manual?
Old 10/26/13, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AMShaneLesky
That's one of hell of a build list. Your GT will be insane once finished!

Assuming you want to stick with 93 octane pump gas, there's no need to upgrade the stock fuel injectors or fuel rails. Both of these stock parts can support 600rwhp on pump gas. Now if you're converting to E85, that's a different story.

Forged pistons and rods would be a nice upgrade if you're tracking the car and it's seeing a lot of extended WOT. Just about any Engine Builder or Speed Shop you go to will have a few options and recommendations on which is best for your build. I suggest finding a reputable shop you trust and talk to them before purchasing any internal engine parts. Also, start to figure what kind of cylinder compression you're interested in. Remember, if running E85 you can benefit a lot from a higher CR, than when using pump gas.

An aluminum driveshaft is a must with a setup like this. You'll easily be making 600rwhp with the supercharger and again- extended WOT will wear the stock DS quickly. Breaking a DS is not something you want to experience either!

As for the transmission- the absolute best upgrade would be to switch to a TR6060 or T56 Magnum XL (basically the same trans). Not only are these transmissions much stronger, but they have a traditional 1:1 gear ratio for 4th gear. Opposed to the factory MT-82, which doesn't hit 1:1 until 5th gear- meaning the first 4 gears are even shorter than normal.

As you can see there's a lot of different approaches to take with this build. The good news is there's a ton of solid tech info on this forum, which will help your decisions. Also, feel free to contact me if you have any other questions. I'd be happy to help!

Shane
Awesome thank you Shane! I should be placing my order for the CAI beginning of the month, I already have my bama tuner so I would like to have a more mild low boost tune for driving on the streets, and. High boost tune for track

Originally Posted by GrabberBlue5.0
Skip the throttle body, skip the gears, skip the fuel rails, skip the cams, skip the..........

Your list needs a lot of work. Are you an auto or manual?
I'm a manual
Old 10/27/13, 08:06 AM
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"Awesome thank you Shane! I should be placing my order for the CAI beginning of the month, I already have my bama tuner so I would like to have a more mild low boost tune for driving on the streets, and. High boost tune for track"

I'm kind of confused of the statement, are you running F/I?

There are many ways of altering a tune, the whole "race" tune, "performance" tune is merely for gimmicks however you can get a "economy tune". A tuner's goal is to have your car run as efficiently as possible, you can lean it out and increase timing but you will run into knock issues, especially as the weather changes or as your engine get hotter.

A shop's job (and duty) is to build you a package that has mods that compliment other mods that supports your goals, not just agree with you on your mods. Right now looking at your mod list this car is going to be confused. First, what are your plans with your car? What is your experience and how long have you had this car? Is this car going to be a DD? Comp stage 3 cams are going to alter your driveability, stage 2 cams allow for a little more "altering" to allow for better street characteristics.
Sway bars are a bit unnecessary for these S197's, if you plan on getting a sway bar the best bet is to only get a front sway (if you road race). Even if you only DD your car, after market sway bars will do nothing for you... especially with KW V3's, your tires will go before you go beyond the use of the stock sways. Also if you road race 4.10's are going to hinder you, 3.73's are best for road racing.

Anyways, if you need any help just let us know. We carry everything on that list minus the MM CC plates. Our prices will beat anyone else, thanks

Jason
Old 10/27/13, 08:09 AM
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Also if you want to learn a little more on some engine management (tuning), I suggest buying. "Engine Management, Advanced tuning", by Greg Banish. This will help you get some basic knowledge on what is a very complex market.

Here ya go

Engine Management: Advanced Tuning: Greg Banish: 9781932494426: Amazon.com: Books Engine Management: Advanced Tuning: Greg Banish: 9781932494426: Amazon.com: Books
Old 10/27/13, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay@Hypermotive
"Awesome thank you Shane! I should be placing my order for the CAI beginning of the month, I already have my bama tuner so I would like to have a more mild low boost tune for driving on the streets, and. High boost tune for track"

I'm kind of confused of the statement, are you running F/I?

There are many ways of altering a tune, the whole "race" tune, "performance" tune is merely for gimmicks however you can get a "economy tune". A tuner's goal is to have your car run as efficiently as possible, you can lean it out and increase timing but you will run into knock issues, especially as the weather changes or as your engine get hotter.

A shop's job (and duty) is to build you a package that has mods that compliment other mods that supports your goals, not just agree with you on your mods. Right now looking at your mod list this car is going to be confused. First, what are your plans with your car? What is your experience and how long have you had this car? Is this car going to be a DD? Comp stage 3 cams are going to alter your driveability, stage 2 cams allow for a little more "altering" to allow for better street characteristics.
Sway bars are a bit unnecessary for these S197's, if you plan on getting a sway bar the best bet is to only get a front sway (if you road race). Even if you only DD your car, after market sway bars will do nothing for you... especially with KW V3's, your tires will go before you go beyond the use of the stock sways. Also if you road race 4.10's are going to hinder you, 3.73's are best for road racing.

Anyways, if you need any help just let us know. We carry everything on that list minus the MM CC plates. Our prices will beat anyone else, thanks

Jason
Thank you so I can knock off the sways and ill change the gears in my build list. I'm basically planning on making this car a track car. But at the same time I want to have the ability to just adjust a couple things and go to the drag strip. I will definitely look up that book, thank you. Oh and no I'm not running F/I yet but I do intend to. I've only had the car since July, but I prefer to have everything planned out and just work my way down a list of what parts to buy
Old 10/27/13, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by onequickstang
Thank you so I can knock off the sways and ill change the gears in my build list. I'm basically planning on making this car a track car. But at the same time I want to have the ability to just adjust a couple things and go to the drag strip. I will definitely look up that book, thank you. Oh and no I'm not running F/I yet but I do intend to. I've only had the car since July, but I prefer to have everything planned out and just work my way down a list of what parts to buy
We are more of a track company ourselves but also know how to modify a car that will do well in all facets of a car's performance. If you need help at all from us don't hesitate to ask
Old 10/27/13, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay@Hypermotive
We are more of a track company ourselves but also know how to modify a car that will do well in all facets of a car's performance. If you need help at all from us don't hesitate to ask
I bought my suspension parts from Jay. Great service and knowledge. Saved me money on parts he said I didn't need. After driving my car in a spirited way, he was right. I highly recommend Jay and Hypermotive.
Old 10/27/13, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay@Hypermotive

We are more of a track company ourselves but also know how to modify a car that will do well in all facets of a car's performance. If you need help at all from us don't hesitate to ask
For what I want to do what would you recommend on suspension?
Old 10/28/13, 05:29 AM
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I modified your build list just a tad. To be honest, you really don't need cams, especially if you decide to go F/I. If you're going to get a tune, tuner and CAI, stick with a company that bases their business off of tuning. VMP/ Lund/ AED are all good tuners and can tune a wide array of modifications. If a company can't tune past N/A or if they will only tune your car with the addition of the parts they sell I would skip them. Tuning is the base for everything with your car. This is the part you don't want to go cheap on, reputable companies have cars out their who are winning competitions, who are sought after, etc. I won't beat a dead horse on this one.
Now with the Boss Mani, you won't be able to rev as high without the Boss valve springs, if you plan on Cams to up that HP and RPM's you'll need oil pump gears to support that but again, if you decide to go F/I you should wait on the Cams and Boss mani. Enjoy the tune first with its supporting mods.

Here is the alterations:

So far my build list includes:
Boss 302 mani X
Ford racing 90mm T.B. X
Kooks long tubes & o/r x pipe or Stainless power LT's @ O/R X pipe
4.10 gears X Stick with 3.73's
Stage 3 comp cams Stage 2 (still not needed), add TSS gears, Boss valve springs
Kw v3 coil overs
Maximum motorsports c&c plates
Ford racing front & rear sway bars X
Brembo brake pack

KW coilovers will do just fine, I've ran them in the past and loved them. Take a look a Vorshlag CC plates, along with Ground Control CC plates they are the best in the business. You won't have to reuse the bearings and spring isolator like you do on the MM plates.

Again, in order to achieve the benefits for some of the parts you listed you'll need more. You will be surprised in what you'll get from a tune, headers and even a CAI (which isn't all that necessary either) when using a good tuner.

The suspension will require a few other parts, depending on how low you want to go you should look at LCA relocation brackets, LCA's and adj UCA and mount. UCA and mount will be most beneficial as this corrects the pinion angle, which should be set around 0. The notion of -2 is actually a little off and is designed for those high HP cars that drag race.

Anyways, I'm going down a rabbit hole. Shoot me a pm on all the questions you have, I'll make sure to steer you in the right direction and we can save you a lot of time and money in the process
Old 10/28/13, 09:48 AM
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What's your end goal. Road course, Drag, Both, canyon carving or just DD? Your end goal will chaneg your list. Forgot to add "Just want to spend $$ and have fun modding"
Old 10/28/13, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by devildog1679
What's your end goal. Road course, Drag, Both, canyon carving or just DD? Your end goal will chaneg your list. Forgot to add "Just want to spend $$ and have fun modding"
My end goal is road course/canyon carving. But right now my mustang is also my DD
Old 11/7/13, 03:42 PM
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For anyone still following this thread, I went with a steeda cold air intake and bama tune. I should have the CAI on tuesday
Old 11/7/13, 04:51 PM
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wish i had the guts to void my warranty :/
Old 11/7/13, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Sterling5.0
wish i had the guts to void my warranty :/
You can see how long I've been thinking about it haha after talking to everyone on this forum, and talking to bama performance I feel confident in tuning it
Old 11/7/13, 10:12 PM
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Get a good tune and don't worry about the warranty. Had my car for closing in on 2 years and have almost 31k on it. Been tuned since around 500 miles or so I think. No issues, no worries. Car is driven daily and sees the strip at least once a month if possible. If yours is gonna be more of a road course car. I would plan out the suspension and get that set and installed then get some seat time on the tracks. 600-700 hp is unnecessary for road courses if you are over powering your suspension and brakes. Get the car set up and working, then start adding power.

Last edited by conv_stang; 11/7/13 at 10:13 PM.
Old 11/7/13, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by conv_stang
A good tune and don't worry about the warranty. Had my car for closing in on 2 years and have almost 31k on it. Been tuned since around 500 miles or so I think. No issues, no worries. Car is driven daily and sees the strip at least once a month if possible.
If yours is gonna be more of a road course car. I would plan out the suspension and get that set and installed then get some seat time on the tracks. 600-700 hp is unnecessary for road courses if you are over powering your suspension and brakes. Get the car set up and working, then start adding power.
After talking to a bunch of people that's my plan. Next step is my wheels (forge star aluminum one piece) and the kw variant 3 coil overs. Besides that I am still trying to figure out what other suspension upgrades to do.
Old 11/9/13, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by conv_stang
If yours is gonna be more of a road course car. I would plan out the suspension and get that set and installed then get some seat time on the tracks. 600-700 hp is unnecessary for road courses if you are over powering your suspension and brakes. Get the car set up and working, then start adding power.
Exactly. You can have all the power in the world, but if you can't control it in corners or put it down to the pavement evenly, you're doing overkill in the horsepower department.
Good luck man.
Old 11/9/13, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Stage_3
Exactly. You can have all the power in the world, but if you can't control it in corners or put it down to the pavement evenly, you're doing overkill in the horsepower department.
Good luck man.
Thank you, I can't wait to be able to start building my suspension lol



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