ROUSCH ANTI WHEEL HOP KIT.
I have one and it eliminated wheel hop on my '06, I didn't pick up any extra NVH either. I also have GT500 LCA's but they alone did nothing to stop the hop.
Whiteline also sells a UCA now that might be worth a look.
Whiteline also sells a UCA now that might be worth a look.
I had this kit installed on my 2012 Mustang GT 5.0L w/6-speed, which has the 55D Brembo Brake Package & 3.73 Rear Axle , and it completely cured my wheel hop problem. I highly recommend getting it. Really can not comment on any increase in NVH since my FRPP 3" SS Catback w/X-Tube Exhaust System is quite loud when accelerating at WOT.
it's a solid way to reduce wheel hop. a slight change in noise ensued over bumps but, nothing in any way obnoxious, just more solid sounding over bumps. I still get a very slight touch of hop when the temps drop below 50* on my Brembo car but that's the summer Pirellis, not the kit's fault.
Last edited by 5LHO; Nov 10, 2012 at 05:14 PM.
After being a Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Service Advisor for almost 10 years, having seen countless rear diffs needing rebuilding in Explorers/Mountaineers/Expeditions/Navigators, all with the independent set-up, I wanted nothing to do with IRS ...
Back on topic though ... is this what you guys are talking about?
It seems to be just a new upper control arm ... I'm a little confused since most people will recommend new LOWER control arms first, maybe or not combined with new relocation brackets, and if still having issues, then maybe try out a new UCA ...
http://www.roushperformance.com/part...2005-2010.html
that's the thing, allright. People recommend LCAs because it seems easier to do but the source of the problem is up top. Once you see the factory setup, it'll be pretty clear why. When the pinion gear tries to climb the ring gear, you want direct intervention right at the source, in my view, not distantly acting levers putting twisting and bending forces all the way through the axle housing.
I dunno, I had the old upper out and the new one in, without removing any other components, in about an hour in the driveway. I didn't drop the tank straps, like Roush recommends or remove/unbolt any other pieces. I have new relos waiting in the basement but, I think I'll sell them b/c I'm pretty happy with the work the upper did and I don't need to impair handling and braking performance.
I dunno, I had the old upper out and the new one in, without removing any other components, in about an hour in the driveway. I didn't drop the tank straps, like Roush recommends or remove/unbolt any other pieces. I have new relos waiting in the basement but, I think I'll sell them b/c I'm pretty happy with the work the upper did and I don't need to impair handling and braking performance.
Here is a great video that we did on our LCA's that help eliminate the "HOP"
http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-m...trol-arms.html
You could do uppers and lowers to help provide a more planted rear end.
Best Regards,
TJ
http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-m...trol-arms.html
You could do uppers and lowers to help provide a more planted rear end.
Best Regards,
TJ
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