retrofit Sport Shift in 10-12 autos
3/29/15, 02:59 PM
#1
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
retrofit Sport Shift in 10-12 autos
Some people have asked me about how I got sport shift into my 12 auto, as it is only available on 13/14 cars.
It is NOT a matter of simply installing the shifter from a 13/14! This isn't plug and play.
You can read about everything involved with this here:
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...luster-529167/
This was a result of retrofitting a 2013 cluster with track apps. In order to make all the functions of the cluster work in my 2012 auto, I had to flash my PCM to that of a 2013 car. I had to find a VIN of a 13/14 car that was similar to mine and used that VIN to program my PCM. You need IDS to do this.
Once this was done, all functions of the cluster worked (track apps needed a 13/14 abs module, though). This also meant that the PCM was now programmed for Sport Shift.
You can read below the part from the thread that deals with installing the Sport Shift. I love it, by the way. Using it really changes the personality of the car.
If you are looking to put in paddle shifters as well, then this thread would be a continuation of this mod:
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...6/#post6947308
It is NOT a matter of simply installing the shifter from a 13/14! This isn't plug and play.
You can read about everything involved with this here:
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...luster-529167/
This was a result of retrofitting a 2013 cluster with track apps. In order to make all the functions of the cluster work in my 2012 auto, I had to flash my PCM to that of a 2013 car. I had to find a VIN of a 13/14 car that was similar to mine and used that VIN to program my PCM. You need IDS to do this.
Once this was done, all functions of the cluster worked (track apps needed a 13/14 abs module, though). This also meant that the PCM was now programmed for Sport Shift.
You can read below the part from the thread that deals with installing the Sport Shift. I love it, by the way. Using it really changes the personality of the car.
If you are looking to put in paddle shifters as well, then this thread would be a continuation of this mod:
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...6/#post6947308
For Automatic Owners of 2011 and 2012
For 2011/12 automatic owners, if you program the PCM to a 2013/14, then you will also need to upgrade to the Select Sport Shift automatic shifter. This is NOT plug and play, but is a real pain. Using the Black Box from Redlinersperformance.com is a better option here for automatic owners. If you go with the black box, then you do not need to mess with the auto shifter at all.
But if the PCM is programmed, on the old shifter, when you manually put the car into 1, 2 or 3, the cluster will show an error (a wrench symbol) that will need to be cleared using a diagnostic tool every time it comes up. It will shift normally, but the PCM is getting confused as it expects Select Sport Shift.
To correct this, get the Select Sport Shift automatic shifter box. You really only need the shifter **** with the button, but the old shifter bezel will still have the 1 2 3 on there, which is no longer used and will make the error message come up if you do shift into them. The new box will only show S only and not allow the shifter to move past the S. I also had to make a block and screw it into place to prevent selection of those gears manually using the shifter.
Also, hill assist is no longer functional - but you could just add it as an extra and put the button for it somewhere, like I did. It is redundant with the select shift anyways.
The wires from the **** will need to go all the way to the PCM at the front of the car. Thanks to Lex for getting the the info on how to route wires from the cabin to the PCM. It wasn`t too bad. The passenger side wheel and inner plastic wheel cover has to come out. Behind it you will see wires running from the passenger cabin all the way to the PCM at the front of the car. The wires going from the shifter have to go all the way to the PCM. You will have to push those 3 wires through the grommet in the firewall to get them through to the inner fender. A bit of a pain to do this, but this is the only PITA part.
Next I needed the connectors for C307 both male and female. These are on the shifter box and replace the ones that are there now. The current wires going into those connectors use larger pins, so I had to change them all out to smaller pins. Make sure you keep track of what you plug into the male and female connectors so that they match!!
The 3 wires from the shift **** are for select shift.
The white wire from the **** is for shift up and will go to pin 23 on connector C175B on the PCM.
The brown one is for shift down and goes to pin 24 on the PCM C175B.
The black wire is signal return and goes to pin 56 on the PCM C175B.
Once the wiring was routed to the PCM, I had to add pins to slots 23 and 24 in C175B as those slots are empty (The bottom of the 3 connectors in the PCM. Unplug them all to get access). The third wire I tapped into the wire going to pin 56.
You will now have functioning Select Sport Shift.
For 2011/12 automatic owners, if you program the PCM to a 2013/14, then you will also need to upgrade to the Select Sport Shift automatic shifter. This is NOT plug and play, but is a real pain. Using the Black Box from Redlinersperformance.com is a better option here for automatic owners. If you go with the black box, then you do not need to mess with the auto shifter at all.
But if the PCM is programmed, on the old shifter, when you manually put the car into 1, 2 or 3, the cluster will show an error (a wrench symbol) that will need to be cleared using a diagnostic tool every time it comes up. It will shift normally, but the PCM is getting confused as it expects Select Sport Shift.
To correct this, get the Select Sport Shift automatic shifter box. You really only need the shifter **** with the button, but the old shifter bezel will still have the 1 2 3 on there, which is no longer used and will make the error message come up if you do shift into them. The new box will only show S only and not allow the shifter to move past the S. I also had to make a block and screw it into place to prevent selection of those gears manually using the shifter.
Also, hill assist is no longer functional - but you could just add it as an extra and put the button for it somewhere, like I did. It is redundant with the select shift anyways.
The wires from the **** will need to go all the way to the PCM at the front of the car. Thanks to Lex for getting the the info on how to route wires from the cabin to the PCM. It wasn`t too bad. The passenger side wheel and inner plastic wheel cover has to come out. Behind it you will see wires running from the passenger cabin all the way to the PCM at the front of the car. The wires going from the shifter have to go all the way to the PCM. You will have to push those 3 wires through the grommet in the firewall to get them through to the inner fender. A bit of a pain to do this, but this is the only PITA part.
Next I needed the connectors for C307 both male and female. These are on the shifter box and replace the ones that are there now. The current wires going into those connectors use larger pins, so I had to change them all out to smaller pins. Make sure you keep track of what you plug into the male and female connectors so that they match!!
The 3 wires from the shift **** are for select shift.
The white wire from the **** is for shift up and will go to pin 23 on connector C175B on the PCM.
The brown one is for shift down and goes to pin 24 on the PCM C175B.
The black wire is signal return and goes to pin 56 on the PCM C175B.
Once the wiring was routed to the PCM, I had to add pins to slots 23 and 24 in C175B as those slots are empty (The bottom of the 3 connectors in the PCM. Unplug them all to get access). The third wire I tapped into the wire going to pin 56.
You will now have functioning Select Sport Shift.
Last edited by jim010; 9/21/15 at 10:35 PM.
3/29/15, 07:08 PM
#2
Bullitt Member
I also have been looking into these exact same paddle shifters (until now these were the only ones I have found). I still haven't pulled the trigger, because of the fit and the fact that they are battery operated (the paddles them selves).
It would be nice if somehow the 2015 wheel with paddles could be made to fit our cars.
It would be nice if somehow the 2015 wheel with paddles could be made to fit our cars.
3/29/15, 09:28 PM
#3
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
To my understanding, the 2015 wheel will fit, and so will the new airbag - but not 100% since I nor the tech I talk to have physically tried this.
Very likely the paddle shifters will work if you wire them directly to the wires from the **** shifter. The buttons, on the other hand? There is a chance that they will work, and here is my reasoning:
Cruise - has all the same functions as the 13/14. on/off is a single push button, and so is cancel/resume, just as on the 13/14 cars. I figure that they will have the same resistance values.
D-pad - not sure why anything would be changed here either.
Sync, volume up and down and tuning back and forth are all there. Again, don't see why values would have changed.
Phone call and hang up is a single push button on the 13/14 but separate buttons on the 15. This won't work right on our cars for sure.
However, mute is new, and so is the 'M' (memory?). These will not be functional or activate something else not related.
If someone went this route, the clock spring connectors probably will be different, so you would need to rewire using the old connector. But this also has an issue, as the old connector doesn't have enough slots to accomodate the wires for the shifters.
I e-mailed the maker of the paddle shifters on Ebay. Seeing as how he prints these, I wanted to know if a design for a more integrated shifter that can be hard wired could be done. I'll let you know his response.
Very likely the paddle shifters will work if you wire them directly to the wires from the **** shifter. The buttons, on the other hand? There is a chance that they will work, and here is my reasoning:
Cruise - has all the same functions as the 13/14. on/off is a single push button, and so is cancel/resume, just as on the 13/14 cars. I figure that they will have the same resistance values.
D-pad - not sure why anything would be changed here either.
Sync, volume up and down and tuning back and forth are all there. Again, don't see why values would have changed.
Phone call and hang up is a single push button on the 13/14 but separate buttons on the 15. This won't work right on our cars for sure.
However, mute is new, and so is the 'M' (memory?). These will not be functional or activate something else not related.
If someone went this route, the clock spring connectors probably will be different, so you would need to rewire using the old connector. But this also has an issue, as the old connector doesn't have enough slots to accomodate the wires for the shifters.
I e-mailed the maker of the paddle shifters on Ebay. Seeing as how he prints these, I wanted to know if a design for a more integrated shifter that can be hard wired could be done. I'll let you know his response.
3/30/15, 11:10 AM
#5
Bullitt Member
That's too bad. How long would the batteries last? He doesn't mention it anywhere. I wonder if this design would ever get a car manufacturers approval (safety concern ?).
Ford should have put paddle shifters in the 13 and 14 to begin with when they changed to selecshift.
Ford should have put paddle shifters in the 13 and 14 to begin with when they changed to selecshift.
3/31/15, 12:15 PM
#6
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
They should have.
I ordered the paddles from Philip. They are 3D printed, so they will need to be sanded and painted to look finished - which I can do. I will also look into hardwiring it as well.
I ordered the paddles from Philip. They are 3D printed, so they will need to be sanded and painted to look finished - which I can do. I will also look into hardwiring it as well.
4/20/15, 12:36 PM
#7
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Got my paddle shifters from Phillip.
They are not a finished product, and need to be sanded and painted. I knew this when I bought them. You could get away with not doing anything to them, but the layering from the 3D printer is quite noticable. It is made from ABS plastic, by the way.
I am also looking at modifying the paddle casing so I can attach it to the wheel without using the clips.
They are not a finished product, and need to be sanded and painted. I knew this when I bought them. You could get away with not doing anything to them, but the layering from the 3D printer is quite noticable. It is made from ABS plastic, by the way.
I am also looking at modifying the paddle casing so I can attach it to the wheel without using the clips.
Last edited by jim010; 4/20/15 at 01:13 PM.
4/20/15, 04:44 PM
#8
Bullitt Member
Hey Jim, I'm keeping a close eye on this thread! I can't drive a manual car anymore, so I really need to get the best out of the automatic gear box (which I love by the way, except for the lack of flappy paddles).
Hard wired sounds the best!
Hard wired sounds the best!
4/20/15, 06:43 PM
#9
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Hard wiring won't happen. He has these radio transmitters that the paddles touch that send the signal. Changing that to hard wired is beyond my ability. But I am looking into using some nice black hex screws to attach the casing to the back of the wheel. Until that time, I will just have it clipped on. For now, I am sanding it and am looking into what paint to use that will be durable since the oils from my fingers will eventually remove the paint. Maybe plasti-dip?
12/7/23, 06:11 PM
#12
I’m doing the select shift retrofit in my 2012 GT. It’s at the point where all parts are installed but I have Service Advancetrac message along with abs and traction control lights on. I think the problem is a bad ABS Module or the module has a vin in it that is different than the pcm. So how do I go about fixing this? I have FORscan but not IDS.
Thanks,
Don
Thanks,
Don
12/7/23, 09:06 PM
#13
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
I’m doing the select shift retrofit in my 2012 GT. It’s at the point where all parts are installed but I have Service Advancetrac message along with abs and traction control lights on. I think the problem is a bad ABS Module or the module has a vin in it that is different than the pcm. So how do I go about fixing this? I have FORscan but not IDS.
Thanks,
Don
Thanks,
Don
12/7/23, 09:10 PM
#14
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
If you want full functionality, then to get Track Apps working, you need to get the ABS module listed above. Remove the air filter box, as the ABS module is located under there. Switch them out.
You will still not have it working right. Now you need to go to the dealer. With the VCM, the dealer needs to load the calibration for a 2013/14 car to the ABS module. Then you need to manually input the 'As Built' data into the ABS module, which will be as follows:
So the 'as built' data in the ABS module (760-01-01) I have found is:
2011 - 2014
016A - regular
056E - Brembo equipped
85EE - Track Package equipped
066F - vert Brembo equipped
026B - vert regular
218A - Boss
0972 - Shelby
41AA - Boss LS
Track Apps will now work, but you still won't have the guages. To get those, using the VCM, you will need to download the calibration for a 2013 PCM:
DR3A - ACD for manual
DR3A - ND for automatic
You may also need a corresponding 2013/14 VIN.
When done correctly, you will now have fully functioning cluster.
You will still not have it working right. Now you need to go to the dealer. With the VCM, the dealer needs to load the calibration for a 2013/14 car to the ABS module. Then you need to manually input the 'As Built' data into the ABS module, which will be as follows:
So the 'as built' data in the ABS module (760-01-01) I have found is:
2011 - 2014
016A - regular
056E - Brembo equipped
85EE - Track Package equipped
066F - vert Brembo equipped
026B - vert regular
218A - Boss
0972 - Shelby
41AA - Boss LS
Track Apps will now work, but you still won't have the guages. To get those, using the VCM, you will need to download the calibration for a 2013 PCM:
DR3A - ACD for manual
DR3A - ND for automatic
You may also need a corresponding 2013/14 VIN.
When done correctly, you will now have fully functioning cluster.
12/7/23, 09:16 PM
#15
I’ve read that thread many times and have taken it and my car to a number of shops, including a Ford dealer, and all of them have not been able to fix it or have declined to be involved.
12/8/23, 07:43 AM
#17
The 2 shops that actually worked on it, including a dealer, just said they couldn’t program the module because it came from a donor car and had a vin already in it. I’m thinking about going back to the dealer and asking them to order a module with the same vin that’s in the pcm. The pcm was flashed to a 2014 but I don’t have the vin info. I think I can get it using FORscan.
KC suggested Cardone for a remanufacured one that is sold through O’Reilly’s but I don’t know about getting it programmed. I trust it comes unprogrammed.
KC suggested Cardone for a remanufacured one that is sold through O’Reilly’s but I don’t know about getting it programmed. I trust it comes unprogrammed.
12/8/23, 10:43 AM
#18
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
The 2 shops that actually worked on it, including a dealer, just said they couldn’t program the module because it came from a donor car and had a vin already in it. I’m thinking about going back to the dealer and asking them to order a module with the same vin that’s in the pcm. The pcm was flashed to a 2014 but I don’t have the vin info. I think I can get it using FORscan.
KC suggested Cardone for a remanufacured one that is sold through O’Reilly’s but I don’t know about getting it programmed. I trust it comes unprogrammed.
KC suggested Cardone for a remanufacured one that is sold through O’Reilly’s but I don’t know about getting it programmed. I trust it comes unprogrammed.
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12/9/23, 07:24 AM
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