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Relocation Brackets necessary???

Old Jan 11, 2013 | 10:15 PM
  #1  
NTXRockr's Avatar
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From: Denton, TX -> Pensacola, FL
Relocation Brackets necessary???

I bought a BMR adjustable UCA and UCA mounting bracket, and have a set of BMR adjustable poly/spherical LCA's (tubular style) paid for and on the way. I plan on installing these next weekend with the goal to get rid of these terrible 1.9-2.1 60' times at the track. I wasn't intending on going with adjustable lowers as I already had the adjustable upper, but the price was too good to pass up so here I am plus they were the half poly, half spherical setup that I'm looking for to serve as a compromise between spherical strength and NVH-less poly units. As long as I can start cutting 1.7-1.8 or better 60' times without breaking poly inserts and not have a screaming differential sounds while driving down the highway, I'm good.

So, the plan was to install a set of BMR relo brackets at the same time (still debating on whether to weld in or not...) but now I'm wondering if I can't accomplish the same adjustments with the adjustable lower/upper arms as the brackets would? I understand the whole point of adjustable upper arms is to correct for pinion angle when lowering, etc, and that the relocation brackets adjust the arm angle when lowering OR for added traction.

I would still prefer to get the brackets and accomplish my goals that way (not to mention have just about every adjustment available to me), but do I need to spend the extra $160+ to get the brackets and then weld them in, or have I covered my bases with the adjustable lowers and can adjust pinion angle AND lower arm angle with the components I have already? Or am I totally off-kilter and am thinking about this all wrong, and I need to buy the brackets already??? I've been going through all the adjustments and angles in my head and theoretically it could work, but it's late - and it's Friday night - so I could be missing something critical (or completely obvious)...it seems like you need a post-grad degree in suspension to keep from screwing the geometry of these rear ends up to where they just don't find the groove and have a gremlin here or there, so that's why I'm asking for all of your opinions and any real-world experience with adjustable lowers.


One last thing, I'm running slicks (M/T ET Streets) at the track and am about to put 4.10s in, so the impact and abuse on the arms will only be getting worse in the future...especially if I put the nitrous kit on there very soon To make this problem go away easier, I'd love to buy a set of BMR relo brackets for a good price if anyone has some!!!
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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If you're running slicks at the track, weld them in. Every company that produces Relo brackets recommends that they are welded in. It won't hurt.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 08:20 AM
  #3  
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The BMR ones do not require you to weld them.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 08:34 AM
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Bmr does recommend you weld them when used for drag racing. Says so on their site. Says you need to weld in extreme applications( i.e. drag racing). Wasn't sure of their definition of extreme applications myself so I called and was told if the car goes to the track, weld them.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 08:49 AM
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Kelly @ BMR has stated they do not need to be welded.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 08:57 AM
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He's the same one that told me it would make sense to weld them
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 08:58 AM
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I was going for the BMR brackets also, but the mechanic still wanted to at least tack-weld them on... I said, in that case, I'll go with what he had readily available, which were the Steeda weld-only brackets. He just wasn't comfortable with a bolt-on for this type of application.

I guess if you were not tracking your car in any way, shape, or form, you should be okay.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by J Tennu
I was going for the BMR brackets also, but the mechanic still wanted to at least tack-weld them on... I said, in that case, I'll go with what he had readily available, which were the Steeda weld-only brackets. He just wasn't comfortable with a bolt-on for this type of application.

I guess if you were not tracking your car in any way, shape, or form, you should be okay.
Exactly. I'm s/c so maybe in my circumstance he thought it would be better off to weld due to the extra power, don't know. Just told him I hit the strip often and that's what was recommended to me.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 02:51 PM
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Yes, weld them in.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 02:21 PM
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NTXRockr's Avatar
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From what I understood they have the bolts only to hold into place while adjusting arm position and suspension angles, and then once you had it set up you weld them in place permanently to maintain the strength and structural integrity of the suspension. I guess those that aren't putting as much strain on the parts (i.e. daily driving, not racing) can get away with just bolting them in, but I've seen bad things happen at the track that was on beefier parts than these, so I'll be welding them in before I put the slicks on to race.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by black5.0
Bmr does recommend you weld them when used for drag racing. Says so on their site. Says you need to weld in extreme applications( i.e. drag racing). Wasn't sure of their definition of extreme applications myself so I called and was told if the car goes to the track, weld them.
I just installed relocation brackets. I drag race but im on street tires. Is welding really neccessary? Whats the worst that could happen. Im stock also
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 02:59 PM
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See post #4 here from Kelly @ BMR. Their new relocation brackets do not need to be welded.
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showt...eline+brackets
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bushguts
I just installed relocation brackets. I drag race but im on street tires. Is welding really neccessary? Whats the worst that could happen. Im stock also
Most likely brake something.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 03:38 PM
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Weld them in!
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