I redline mine everyday. No carbon or cylinder ridge here.

I'm sure it will work fine for you. But with the hundreds of thousands of miles I have put on Ford vehicles over 30 years - personal and commercial - following Ford factory recommendations for oil - I'm not going to do something different now just because of "internet stories". They have had different recommended oil over the years due to cast iron v aluminum block, improved engineering, testing, tolerances; OHC vs pushrod motors, now hydraulic actioned cams vs fixed cams. Not to mention improved oils from refiners and engineers. And the 4.6L motor has a fantastic record.

Please understand, I'm not challenging your personal decision. I'm challenging the internet rumor mill (mostly from oil guy bob) that Ford was willing to risk engine longevity and reputation with 20 v 30 just for the sake of any minute improvement for CAFE regs. That's a bull**** story.

Agreed. Use what you prefer. You have your reasons, I have mine.

 

If one buys a 2013 Ford model in Europe what oil is recommended to use?

 

I already responded to that.

 

No sir you didn't. Its my understanding the engine block in a 2013 Ford sold in Europe is the same engine block and tolerances in a 2013 Ford sold in US. If its the same engine and tolerances then what engine oil in Europe is Ford recommending? What engine oil is Europe using in the same Ford vehicles as we have here?

 

Sorry for responding late on this, but this is only partially true. The expanding polymers do not increase the viscosity, they merely delay the decrease in viscosity. Multi-weight oil does not increase in viscosity with increased temperature.

The reason for multi-weights is to have thin oil which has low viscosity at start up, to ensure every spot gets flow at low temps, while maintaining viscosity at higher temps to ensure it continues to do its job of lubricating and cushioning clearanced parts.

Before multi-weight oil, one needed to choose whether to use light weight oil to do one or the other; not both.

 

I understand why going from 5/20 to 5/30 is beneficial. What I'm not sure about is if I should stick with a Synthetic-Blend (as installed & recommended by Ford), or go to a full-Synthetic (Mobil-1, etc.).
Anyone have any recommendations on changing from a blend to a full synthetic?
Will changing from 5/20 & a Blend to a 5/30 & full-Synthetic void the standard warrenty?

Just bought a 2014 5.0, only has 800 miles on it. Should I just drive it the 5000 miles w/the current 5/20 Blend? Or should I go ahead and switch out the oil to 5/30 (and a blend OR a Synthetic)?

 

I say yes to running out the miles with the current 5/20 blend, the motor needs to bed in before going full synthetic in my opinion.

 

Mobil 1 is no longer a full synthetic. Hasn't been for many years. I along with many others run Amsoil 10w-30.
These motors are already broken in at the factory before they hit the dealers lots. So the motor does not need to "bed" as you state. You need to get out of the 80's. Times have changed.

 

Engines are not pre-run for 'break in' at the factory. What do you think they come off the assembly line and then have hundreds of cars sitting in parking lots idling? Or each one of them driven on the test track?
I'll trust my Owners Manual thank you.

 

Mobil 1 Extended Performance with the gold cap is a Base IV full synthetic. Lol.

 

They certainly are.
True the Extended Performance is. But most people don't know the difference.

 

That's because Mobil has like 10 different Mobil 1 oils. Lmao. To the average bear they have no clue and its all so confusing. Lol

 

Ford workers here have posted they spin the engine on the line for oil pressure, start for any obvious problems, drive to lot and park waiting for transport. That's hardly a 'break in'.

 

I agree.
And that's all that's needed. Thanks for proving me right.

 

Going back to my original question, should I just run the current 5/20 blend for the 5k miles, or should I go ahead and switch it out to 5/30 Full Synthetic?

 

Go full synthetic, your choice on the weight. Just remember not all oils that advertise as being synthetic truly are.

 

These oil threads are always entertaining. I've learned a lot of stuff from these forums but what oil to use isn't one of them.
How many oil related engine failures on the stock engine have you seen posted in this or any other forum? I haven't seen any but maybe I missed one.
I have no more knowledge regarding oil than most of the people who post opinions about it but I do trust that Ford recommends the oil that provides the best performance in their engines and the oil that their engines are designed to use. If 5W-20 wasn't sufficient to protect the engine do you think Ford would use it? It defies logic. Corporations look at the bottom line and if Ford was getting excessive warranty claims they'd switch to a heavier oil so quickly it would make your head spin.
The often mentioned "fact" that they only use 5-20W for fuel economy may or may not be true but Mobil claims a 2% gain by switching to their 0 weight so it doesn't look like a switch from 30 - 20 weight will move the needle on the EPA meter enough to compel Ford to go with the lighter weight. Especially if it had the potential to harm the engine.

While I doubt switching to 5W-30 will cause any major problems why do it if it's not necessary? The OP states that his tick went away when he switched to a heavier oil. That makes sense and I assume that an even heavier oil would quiet the engine more. That doesn't make it the correct oil to use (and maybe it impacts the VCT) but I understand the logic. Running straight 50 weight would probably quiet the engine so much you wouldn't know it was running. One thing I'm fairly certain of - the tick didn't go away because the oil was manufactured by Royal Purple.
In my opinion any oil by a major manufacturer will provide excellent protection - even non-synthetic. I've always used Valvoline synthetic on my Mustangs. I could easily switch to Mobil, Amsoil etc but I started with Valvoline and will stick with it - brand loyalty - not because I think it's better than the other brands. I could also stay with the Motorcraft but I like the added protection synthetic offers if for some reason I'm low on oil and don't know it. Plus I think it keeps the engine cleaner.

If you really want to know how your oil is holding up go here.
http://tinyurl.com/yzh46m
They will perform a full analysis for not a lot of money and give you a detailed report on your oil including longevity. A good test would be to send them a sample from your original Motorcraft fill and then another after your second change. Then you'll have a basis for comparison rather than opinions.
This is from their FAQ.

What's the best oil to use?Come on, you're holding out on me. I should use synthetic, right?

 

OP, Go 5w 30 bro. That's what I use.

 

The "money quote" from that article, the thing that seems to be the foundation of its conclusions, is this:

The article states this without citing any evidence or arguments backing it.

It is that very statement which is in question here. Just on its face, that statement appears to be vastly oversimplistic, with engine design tolerances being but one of the things that would call that statement into question.

Furthermore, it fails to recognize that many 30 weight oils will shear to a 20 grade oil or below.

The engine matters. The fundamental characteristics of the oil matter. Only experience will show whether the article is truly correct about the use of 20 weight oils in modern engines. If the average life of these engines drops (relative to their 30-weight-using brethren) due to internal wear, that will validate the article's conclusions. Little else will. There are too many variables in play here.


They have, but not to the degree you think. Were that not the case, the owner's manual would not call out a break-in period at all (a period during which one is supposed to avoid long durations of driving without significant power/RPM changes).

The nature of the machining on the engines has changed such that the break-in period is much shorter than it used to be (and/or the procedures are much closer to normal driving), but it hasn't been eliminated.