2011 GT 5.0

Current Mods:

Steeda sport springs
BMR Panhard Bar
Rovos Durbans
Borlas S-types AB

Few cosmetic (fuel door, side louvers, striping). Nothing performance done.

I did install an Airaid race CAI with a tune a few months back but we could not get it running right so I put stock air box back on, flashed back to stock and sold the tuner and CAI.

Car never sees the track at all but I do drive spirited without going all Burt Reynolds/Smokey & the Bandit. Have been to dyno once and did 388rwhp/343tq & 378/381 but rev limiter keep shutting it down in 4th gear or it would have been even better. Guys at shop said it was very good for a bone stock 5.0.

It's somewhat of a DD, working from home 2 weeks a month and drive 30 miles to office other two weeks. Grocery getter on weekends. Have never been to a track.

Budget is about $1000-$1200 and I'm not a mechanic at all...have changed oil and replaced CAI but obv those were very simple to do. I'm definitely willing to try any installation if I'm mechanically able to do it. Always interested in HP/speed increases. Researched Boss mani but honestly I never ever shift above 5000-6k so not sure that would be the best mod for me.

What's the next step?

Here she sits

 

If I where you id do an off road x and a good tune (steeda or AED at both good for manual cars). The car will sound great with your Borlas and you will also gain a healthy amount of power. Skip the cold air intake because the stock one is actually pretty good.

 

If your car is a manual, it should've been dyno'd in 5th gear.

 

LCA's to help with wheel hop then whatever you want.

 

If you want some more hp and sound, get the X, or H pipe, delete the resonators, and try a different tune setup. For the handling, I would suggest new rear lower control arms with relocation brackets and a new upper control arm. In my opinion, These are a must do with lowering springs.

 

Couple questions- I was looking at maybe doing the JBA LT headers/H pipe/resonator delete - maybe it all at once though. Does it matter what order you do those?

Second- I know a tune is probably needed for the headers- is it needed right away if I went H Pipe/resonator delete route initially with plans to do headers in about 6 mos?

 

If your going to install headers, it's Probably best to do the entire exhaust, all at the same time, for proper fitment, and tuning purposes. Without headers, the order doesn't matter. I live in Cali, so I kept my cat's and did, H pipe and resonator delete with my Borla "S" Axlebacks I already had. That alone, increased the flow and sound enough for me.

 

I think am going to go with H Pipe and resonator delete but those ARE two different parts, correct?

I see a JBA H Pipe on AM (also has cat deletes if I ever go that portion):

$309
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jba-of...e-s2011gt.html


I also a a resonator delete H Pipe for $152:

http://www.americanmuscle.com/heartt...lue&GID=388785

These are separate parts correct? I was confused because they both said "H Pipe".

 

If you want to get rid of the resonators I would go with the JPC Racing Gen 2 over axle pipes. No cutting required, just unbolt the old ones bolt these in. They free up the exhaust a little bit and seem to make a wee bit more power. Also the ones you linked are for the 15-16 Mustangs.

http://www.jpcracing.com/2011-up-mus...steel-revised/

The link with the H pipe you are talking about doesn't pull up. Is it this one?

http://www.jpcracing.com/jba-2011-up...f-road-h-pipe/

 

MGW (if manual) shifter
CatBack (x/h pipe, OTA's)
Bob's Oil Separator

 

Next thing should be a Lund tune.

 

I'm going with the jba headers and off road h pipe. I have stock over axle pipes no resonators and roush axlebacks. Its going to be loud lmao. But I do have some steeda axlebacks and over axle with resonators just in case. I got the natural stainless steel headers and h pipe for 685 total. Getting excited cant wait to get them