speedknot

I need some help with my rear suspension set up for a 2014 GT. Previous owner put eibach sportline springs on it and nothing else. I'm doing camber bolts and a Whiteline Panhard bar. Whats the deal with needing the lower and upper control arm(s)? If I do an adjustable on the upper, do I need adjustables in the lowers, and vice versa? If I have to realign the rear end, why would I need adjustability in both upper and lower arms?
And whats the deal with the LCA relo brackets? Do I really need these with the car lowered as per eibach sportline specs? I'm not professionally dragging or autocrossing the car. I just want the mechanics of the car to be correct and for it to hook up well.

Hwyman

Hey Speedknot.
I am no expert by any means. But I will show you my setup.

EIbach anti-roll front and rear sway bars
Eibach pro kit lowering springs
Eibach pro damper shocks and struts
Whiteline lower control arms
Whiteline panhard bar support brace
Whiteline adjustable panhard bar

I don't use relocation brackets or adjustable control arms. I personally do not have any wheel hop that I have noticed, and I like to hammer my car when I get a chance. I do not autocross my car either.
I find that my setup is exactly what I was looking for and serves the purpose. I must say she carves corners beautifully now.
J&M adjustable caster/camber plates

speedknot

Hey Hwyman. Have you noticed any uneven wear in the inside front tires? I just noticed that my belts are showing on the inside tread. I absolutely have to get the camber straightened out. I'm actually going to go for camber plates, not bolts. A few members have shown me the light.

Hwyman

Nope, no uneven wear on my tires at all. Yah, the bolts are a cheap way to go, and unreliable. My father-in-law owned and operated an alignment shop and informed me to get the caster/camber plates.

EF1

The suspension set up really depends on what your plans for the car are. Adjustable rear control arms are used to rotate the rear differential to correct pinion angle after lowering. You can correct the pinion angle with either an adjustable upper or adjustable lower control arms. You do not need both to correct the geometry. Most people seem to pick an adjustable upper control arm for the rear. I would buy a heavy duty bracket from whichever manufacturer you choose for the upper arm. I put an adjustable upper on the stock mount and had a clanking noise due to differences in tolerances until I purchased the heavy duty bracket from the same manufacturer as the arm. Lower control arm relocation brackets due make a difference in traction after lowering the car. Once the car is lowered the lower control arms will slope up from the front mount the axle. This causes the rear end to ride up under acceleration lightening the rear end which will induce wheel spin. If you are drag racing you want the lower control arms to angle down from the front mounts to the axle. This orientation applies more down force under acceleration and lifts the front end. If you are road coursing the car you want the lower control arms parallel to the ground. This orientation keeps the car neutral and force propels the car forward without wasting energy lifting the car or the wheels. I road course my car, so my set up is tailored to that use. My current rear suspension set up is as follows:

Steeda sport springs - linear spring rate
Koni STRT shocks
Steeda adjustable upper control arm and heavy duty mount with poly bushing on top and spherical bearing on differential end
Steeda billet lower control arms - non adjustable with poly bushings
Steed adjustable panhard bar and brace
Maximum Motorsports lca relocation brackets.



Camber plates are a much better choice than camber bolts for the front struts. They make it easier to set and maintain camber settings. The strut mount bearings are a week point in these cars and the bearings are much better in a quality set of camber plates than what Ford installed originally.

Front suspension set up

Steeda sport springs linear rate
Koni STRT struts
Steeda HD strut mounts camber adjustable
Prothane bushings on the front control arms
Howe Racing screw in extended ball joints

I have -2 degrees of camber in the front end and do not have issues with wear on the inside edge of tires. Hope this helps give you some ideas on how to make your car your own.