Tucker

As many of you may know we got our 2013 Mustang GT last Saturday and starting modifying it right away. We added Suspension, lots of dress up stuff and a set of Flowmaster mufflers, but now it's time for some horsepower.

SCT released the '13 software Tuesday morning and we jump at the chance to see what this thing would do with a tune only and our JLT Intake and tune package.

We ran the car on the dyno last week in bone stock trim, right down to the 87 fuel and it made 360 RWHP and 336 RWTQ. Right on par with our '11, but smoother through the mid range.

So to get an accurate test today we base lined the car to see what the 93 fuel would do and the results were great. Nearly 10 more RWHP and 3 more TQ putting us at 369.83 RWHP and 339 RWTQ. Considering the only changes were 93 fuel, mufflers and our 20" wheels. We know that mufflers are more for sound than power and the heavy wheels could actually hurt power, I'd say most of the gain was due to the fuel change.



Next up we had Brent Hughes of Dyno Tuned Performance build one of his custom tunes for use with the stock air box. It's a big debate on what makes the power in a CAI & Tuner package, so let's test it again right here.
A few runs later and using the best tuned run, power jumped to 383 RWHP and 356 RWTQ for a gain of 14 peak HP and 17 peak TQ, but even higher gains of 15-16 HP and 17-19 TQ were seen through the mid range, very impressive, but not the 25-30 we typically see in our Intake and tuner packages.


So, now it's time to ditch the ugly stock air box in favor of our custom painted JLT CAI in Gotta Have It Green.

Brent took his custom tune he made for the stock box and inserted our custom value file for the JLT intake. No timing, fuel or any power adjustments were made, same tune, just modified to run correctly with the JLT CAI.



We did 2 back to back runs making 393 & 394 RWHP and 364 & 366 RWTQ. We looked at the data logs and noticed we were down 1-2 degrees of timing verses the stock box runs and tune. When adding an intake your load tables will change and that's what happened, so we made a tune adjustment and hit it again.

Bam, 398 RWHP and 370 RWTQ, a total gain of 29 RWHP and 31 RWTQ from the base line and a solid 15-16 RWHP and 14-15 RWTQ over and above the same tune with the same timing and the stock box.



That's a pretty good gain no matter how you look at it, were happy with that, BUT being sooo close to the 400 mark we let the car cool down to try and make a glory run.



First run 401 RWHP and 372 RWTQ then we backed it up with a 400 RWHP and 371 RWTQ for a total gain of 32 RWHP and 33 RWTQ on a car starting with 93 fuel.
I mention the 93 fuel because some companies will base line on 87 and do their final test on 93 showing ridiculous gains, but they are unrealistic.



The car feel great on the street too, breaking the tires loose in 3rd on the way home.
So there you have it, the same gains we have been seeing for years on the '11 and '12 can still be had on the '13 with even better mid range pick up.

Next we plan on adding headers and catted X pipe followed up by the Roush Blower from our 2011 GT.

The full dyno video is uploading right now, so as soon as it's up I'll post it here.

So stay tuned and follow the build on our Facebook page here


Thanks
Jay

Tucker

Here's the video, be sure to watch all the way to the end.
http://youtu.be/vZjy6KqQ0Hw

CaptDistraction

cool stuff, nice gains.

89Turd

Thanks for sharing the data. Great stuff.

Did you do the runs with the hood open?

It seems unfair to compare a factory airbox with a lid to your system with an open element air filter with the hood open. When you shut the hood you seal off around the filter which is similar to the factory airbox.

Can you do a run of the factory system, then put your system on and run with the hood closed?

I'm sure your system will still be better than the factory.

And I appreciate that you attempted to do a comparison that splits out the differences between just adding a tune and adding a tune+CAI. I've really been wanting to see that. But it doesn't seem like a fair comparison the way you ran it. I think your CAI gets an unfair advantage due to the hood being open. (I get that there is more area to get air in to your filter than the factory airbox, but not as much as with the hood open - and I get that there will be some ram air type effect when moving. ) I've heard a number of 'reasons' why the hood needs to be open. I just wish someone would run the test with the hood closed and prove that it doesnt matter.

The paint matched parts look awesome and the open filter does too. I think they belong on all 5.0's!!

Thanks!!

Tucker

It seems there is a misconception on the under hood temps with a cold air intake and dyno testing with the hood up vs hood closed.

99% of all dyno shops do not have fans and HVAC to simulate driving speeds and air flow. Most have a simple fan to blow on the radiator to keep coolent temps down, but that's about it.

NASCAR shops and bigger places like Arrington have full on dyno cells that will keep temps in the room what ever you want and have fans that simulate the speed the car is moving (or would be moving) that flow over the car.

A dyno run is to measure HP, the HP you would have on the street or track. Basicly in a 1/4 mile WOT run. In a 1/4 mile run your car will reach anywhere from 110-130+ MPH and at those speeds your underhood temps are at or near ambient air temps.

So dynoing with the hood up is only getting ambient or close to ambient temps to the filter, just like it would see while driving and that's an apples to apples test.

Dynoing with the hood closed and a small shop fan will increase IAT temps beyond what they are on the street and give a false reading.

Also, yes, when in traffic and low speed driving your temps will increase, but that's not when you need the power. It's when your NOT in traffic and are moving much faster. Plus with the opn filter the higher temps come down faster too.

We have also tested the stock airbox and it also increases temps at idle and low speed.

This is easy to see for yourself as long as you have a tuner to datalog with.

We did some video to show you exactly what we are talking about. Most of the time the IAT's are 4-10 above ambient, not hotter like you would think.

Video:
Thanks
Jay

going for broke

I was monitoring my iat on my 13 last week and with the stock air box the temps were just as Tucker stated. It was mostly about 4 degrees above ambient unless sitting in traffic where I seen it go 10 above ambient at one long traffic light.

Tucker

Yes, all we want to do on the dyno is let the filter breath air temps it owuld at the speed it "would" be driving.

89Turd

Tucker - thanks for the info! I really appreciate the effort and the video. Good stuff.

I guess I see your point that it would be difficult to simulate the amount of air that a vehicle sees at speed with some fans in front of the car. Try putting you arm out the window at 50 or 60 mph - it's some pretty significant force there that would be awfully hard to simulate with a fan.

I see why it wouldnt necessarily be realistic to run it with the hood down.

Still, I'd like to see someone do it anyway. You could log the air temps and see how different it is. And you could apply SAE correction factors to the temps to normailze the data.

Thanks again for the explanation. I've asked the question before and you're the first to give a detailed explanation on why you feel the method is good.

Keep up the good work!