Installed new MGW Race Spec Shifter
#1
Installed new MGW Race Spec Shifter
Today we installed the new MGW Race Spec Shifter. The install was done on a lift which made it easier and I'm sure, more comfortable than installing it while laying on the floor. That being said, the installation could have been done with the car on safely raised and resting on jack stands.
All of the MGW parts are beautiful pieces of machined billet and fit together seamlessly and without any binding or rubbing. Watching the MGW video make the install that much easier.
The hardest part of the whole install was putting the stock rubber shifter boot back on. I took the advice of someone else and made sure the shifter and the reverse lock out were set correctly without the boot on. Once it was adjusted correctly, I removed the upper half of the shifter and installed the boot while sitting comfortably in the car. Made it much easier than trying to get my fingers down into the boot while it was installed. Put the upper half back on and all I had to do was lift the corners of the boot to put the screws in.
The shifter feels solid, just like a top loader would feel. There is zero play or "slop" while shifting. I was having issues shifting from 2nd to 3rd at high rpm's, getting the high speed lock out at described by others. So far, no more problems with that shift...the springs in the shifter center it and all you have to do is push forward with the palm of your hand. The shifter slips into gear with no issues.
One of the best mods I have made and highly recommend it for those looking for a more positive and precise shifting.
All of the MGW parts are beautiful pieces of machined billet and fit together seamlessly and without any binding or rubbing. Watching the MGW video make the install that much easier.
The hardest part of the whole install was putting the stock rubber shifter boot back on. I took the advice of someone else and made sure the shifter and the reverse lock out were set correctly without the boot on. Once it was adjusted correctly, I removed the upper half of the shifter and installed the boot while sitting comfortably in the car. Made it much easier than trying to get my fingers down into the boot while it was installed. Put the upper half back on and all I had to do was lift the corners of the boot to put the screws in.
The shifter feels solid, just like a top loader would feel. There is zero play or "slop" while shifting. I was having issues shifting from 2nd to 3rd at high rpm's, getting the high speed lock out at described by others. So far, no more problems with that shift...the springs in the shifter center it and all you have to do is push forward with the palm of your hand. The shifter slips into gear with no issues.
One of the best mods I have made and highly recommend it for those looking for a more positive and precise shifting.
#4
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Join Date: November 25, 2013
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Thanks for posting. Looking forward to putting mine in when I take my car out of storage. The regular MGW I have now was the previous best available and they seem to upped the game.
#6
That arm/mount came with the bushings already installed and they both looked the same externally, ie; what looked to be the solid ones front and rear. In watching the videos before putting this in I know it was explained there were two different bushing choices for the rear of that arm, however there was not another bushing, solid or otherwise that came separate with the shifter.
Having driven some more with the shifter I stand somewhat corrected with my post in regards to vibration. I can feel slightly more vibration in the higher rpm's, or when downshifting at a higher rom though the bottom of the seat. There is no noise or vibration through the shifter itself and this vibration is in NO WAY severe, annoying or uncomfortable, but it is something I can feel. Personally it makes me feel more connected to the car if that makes sense.
Having driven some more with the shifter I stand somewhat corrected with my post in regards to vibration. I can feel slightly more vibration in the higher rpm's, or when downshifting at a higher rom though the bottom of the seat. There is no noise or vibration through the shifter itself and this vibration is in NO WAY severe, annoying or uncomfortable, but it is something I can feel. Personally it makes me feel more connected to the car if that makes sense.
#7
I was going to install my Blowfish bracket in spring but after hearing all the comments on the MGW Race Spec I decided to sell it and get a Race Spec myself.
Its good to hear the solid rear bushing isn't that harsh. I don't mind a little vibration from the shifter either as long as it doesn't rattle.
How long is the $200 trade in program to go on? I would be willing to do it but I have my car in storage till spring and the way it went last year that wasn't officially started till late May.
Its good to hear the solid rear bushing isn't that harsh. I don't mind a little vibration from the shifter either as long as it doesn't rattle.
How long is the $200 trade in program to go on? I would be willing to do it but I have my car in storage till spring and the way it went last year that wasn't officially started till late May.
#8
Legacy TMS Member
I was going to install my Blowfish bracket in spring but after hearing all the comments on the MGW Race Spec I decided to sell it and get a Race Spec myself. Its good to hear the solid rear bushing isn't that harsh. I don't mind a little vibration from the shifter either as long as it doesn't rattle. How long is the $200 trade in program to go on? I would be willing to do it but I have my car in storage till spring and the way it went last year that wasn't officially started till late May.
#10
Legacy TMS Member
Yeah, it's $300 for the new version that comes with the MGW mount, or say about $200 (net) to do the trade in with my old MGW...but I have to do it within the next few weeks. Don't think I'll have time to do this by next weekend.
#11
No rattle at all....I don't like strange noises or rattles either. The shifter and associated components are so well machined, finished and fit together so precisely that I don't see how it could rattle anyway.
#12
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Join Date: January 16, 2013
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Today we installed the new MGW Race Spec Shifter. The install was done on a lift which made it easier and I'm sure, more comfortable than installing it while laying on the floor. That being said, the installation could have been done with the car on safely raised and resting on jack stands.
All of the MGW parts are beautiful pieces of machined billet and fit together seamlessly and without any binding or rubbing. Watching the MGW video make the install that much easier.
The hardest part of the whole install was putting the stock rubber shifter boot back on. I took the advice of someone else and made sure the shifter and the reverse lock out were set correctly without the boot on. Once it was adjusted correctly, I removed the upper half of the shifter and installed the boot while sitting comfortably in the car. Made it much easier than trying to get my fingers down into the boot while it was installed. Put the upper half back on and all I had to do was lift the corners of the boot to put the screws in.
The shifter feels solid, just like a top loader would feel. There is zero play or "slop" while shifting. I was having issues shifting from 2nd to 3rd at high rpm's, getting the high speed lock out at described by others. So far, no more problems with that shift...the springs in the shifter center it and all you have to do is push forward with the palm of your hand. The shifter slips into gear with no issues.
One of the best mods I have made and highly recommend it for those looking for a more positive and precise shifting.
All of the MGW parts are beautiful pieces of machined billet and fit together seamlessly and without any binding or rubbing. Watching the MGW video make the install that much easier.
The hardest part of the whole install was putting the stock rubber shifter boot back on. I took the advice of someone else and made sure the shifter and the reverse lock out were set correctly without the boot on. Once it was adjusted correctly, I removed the upper half of the shifter and installed the boot while sitting comfortably in the car. Made it much easier than trying to get my fingers down into the boot while it was installed. Put the upper half back on and all I had to do was lift the corners of the boot to put the screws in.
The shifter feels solid, just like a top loader would feel. There is zero play or "slop" while shifting. I was having issues shifting from 2nd to 3rd at high rpm's, getting the high speed lock out at described by others. So far, no more problems with that shift...the springs in the shifter center it and all you have to do is push forward with the palm of your hand. The shifter slips into gear with no issues.
One of the best mods I have made and highly recommend it for those looking for a more positive and precise shifting.
#14
V6 Member
I just installed the MGW Race Spec Shifter, Did it with the car on Jack Stands, took my time, no problems, made sure I adjusted the Cross Bolt Stop to ensure the horizontal gate is adjusted dead nuts on! I had a MGW 1st Gen Shifter, but this is the Shifter to have!!!! Solid, Precise, the way it should be!
#15
Legacy TMS Member
I just installed the MGW Race Spec Shifter, Did it with the car on Jack Stands, took my time, no problems, made sure I adjusted the Cross Bolt Stop to ensure the horizontal gate is adjusted dead nuts on! I had a MGW 1st Gen Shifter, but this is the Shifter to have!!!! Solid, Precise, the way it should be!
I think I'm going to get the updated Blowfish bracket with the MGW mount - I can't see that combo being worse than the new MGW Race version, right?
#16
I just installed the MGW Race Spec Shifter, Did it with the car on Jack Stands, took my time, no problems, made sure I adjusted the Cross Bolt Stop to ensure the horizontal gate is adjusted dead nuts on! I had a MGW 1st Gen Shifter, but this is the Shifter to have!!!! Solid, Precise, the way it should be!
I really want to do the trade in, but I'd have to order now and be at the mercy of MGW's production schedule, and my weekend schedule (George said he is only doing the trade in through January, since they're losing money on it).
I think I'm going to get the updated Blowfish bracket with the MGW mount - I can't see that combo being worse than the new MGW Race version, right?
I think I'm going to get the updated Blowfish bracket with the MGW mount - I can't see that combo being worse than the new MGW Race version, right?
What got me to decided on the Race Spec is the solid bushings of the attachment arm and solid non articulating shift rod. The attachment arm is what keeps the shifter aligned with the shift gates in the transmission so having it solid there is a good thing. With the Blowfish bracket it will be solid but you never know if the gates are aligned properly. I know they sell a replacement solid bushing for the stock attachment arm but if I am going to go through all the work its going to be with the Race Spec.
As far as trading in my 2014 MGW shifter I would love to get in on the trade in deal. It makes upgrading a lot easier but I think I could sell my MGW shifter for around that price. I bet there is a market out there for a used low mileage (~3500 miles on it) MGW shifter with all the factory packaging for people on a budget. I would even throw in a sheet of Dynamat Extreme that I purchased for my Blowfish install.
#17
Mach 1 Member
High rpm lockout has nothing to do with the shifter,its the clutch itself, if you remove the helper spring that will do away with the high rpm lockout!
#18
I will respectfully disagree with you....I removed the spring after the first time it happened to me and that did not cure the problem. Numerous other people have done the same and the issue persists. As discussed in numerous other threads, most likely the problem is the end result of a lot of different things combined...clutch, shifter, helper spring, clutch line...pick one...or put any of them together. The solution however doesn't appear to be exactly the same for each car....in my case, the solution appears to be removing the spring and the installation of this shifter.
#19
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Join Date: August 20, 2012
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With my 2014 edition MGW shifter I tried to adjust the stop but it just wasn't right. So I tore it all apart including that dreaded shift boot and drove around for a while until it was perfect. All I can say is there is a lot of hot air coming up the shifter hole in the summer.
I don't think you can go wrong with the MGW and the revised Blowfish bracket. It will be a little easier to install vs the Race Spec too. Part of me wished I would of tried my Blowfish bracket before I sold it but I figured it would sell for more since I never installed it. I only lost about $20 on it since I got in on the first run.
What got me to decided on the Race Spec is the solid bushings of the attachment arm and solid non articulating shift rod. The attachment arm is what keeps the shifter aligned with the shift gates in the transmission so having it solid there is a good thing. With the Blowfish bracket it will be solid but you never know if the gates are aligned properly. I know they sell a replacement solid bushing for the stock attachment arm but if I am going to go through all the work its going to be with the Race Spec.
As far as trading in my 2014 MGW shifter I would love to get in on the trade in deal. It makes upgrading a lot easier but I think I could sell my MGW shifter for around that price. I bet there is a market out there for a used low mileage (~3500 miles on it) MGW shifter with all the factory packaging for people on a budget. I would even throw in a sheet of Dynamat Extreme that I purchased for my Blowfish install.
I don't think you can go wrong with the MGW and the revised Blowfish bracket. It will be a little easier to install vs the Race Spec too. Part of me wished I would of tried my Blowfish bracket before I sold it but I figured it would sell for more since I never installed it. I only lost about $20 on it since I got in on the first run.
What got me to decided on the Race Spec is the solid bushings of the attachment arm and solid non articulating shift rod. The attachment arm is what keeps the shifter aligned with the shift gates in the transmission so having it solid there is a good thing. With the Blowfish bracket it will be solid but you never know if the gates are aligned properly. I know they sell a replacement solid bushing for the stock attachment arm but if I am going to go through all the work its going to be with the Race Spec.
As far as trading in my 2014 MGW shifter I would love to get in on the trade in deal. It makes upgrading a lot easier but I think I could sell my MGW shifter for around that price. I bet there is a market out there for a used low mileage (~3500 miles on it) MGW shifter with all the factory packaging for people on a budget. I would even throw in a sheet of Dynamat Extreme that I purchased for my Blowfish install.
So what was your perfect adjustment spot? I've still got a touch of notchiness 1-2. What does it favor, closer, or further away from the reverse gate when shifting 1-2?
#20
George recently made a video explaining how to adjust it on the bench.