Hurst Shifter Impressions
#1
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Hurst Shifter Impressions
Installed the Hurst last night in my 2011 GT. Haven't seen any reviews yet, so I'll offer mine.
My heart sank when I opened the box because I saw a round black handle. Luckily the chrome one was at the bottom! Turns out Hurst supplies a handle to work with the stock **** if desired. I doubt many would opt for that, just buy a Steed or Barton if you want stock looks.
Box also includes a poly bushing to replace the rubber in the factory mount. Looks like it would do the job rather than buying a separate mount. I already had the JHR mount installed, so I left that as is.
They also include an LED and wiring kit to put a reverse indicator on the dash or a-pillar. I left that in the box too.
Install goes as the other shifters available, pretty straight forward.
The instructions included are a little off. They mention the wrong size wrench for the **** lock-nut, and show you how to just tie wrap the boot to the handle where they actuall include a nice little collar to attach it to.
The only part I didn't like, is that you have to pull the glued-in boot out of the collar where it attaches to the factory **** and damage this collar. You may have to buy a new boot if you go back to stock.
Shifter itself looks decent. I was concerned that the base plate wasn't any better than stock but the stock piece measures about .080" to the Hurst's .100" so there is a little improvement there. Basically I bought this piece for the looks anyway.
Tension for reverse lock-out is spring adjustable by turning an Allen adjuster on the underside of the base plate. I've left mine alone.
Once installed, the **** sits an inch or so higher than stock. Feels and looks good.
Engaging the reverse gate is by pulling the shifter toward you, rather than pushing the **** down. It seems hard to differentiate between 1st at first, but is pretty easy to figure out in practice. Never a doubt what gear I was in.
The throws seem very short (27%?) to me vs. stock. I'd prefer longer, but I'm sure I'll get used to it. For sure more positive and quicker than stock.
Hurst warns about NVH with this shifter and includes some rubber isolaters for the stick if needed. To my surprise I have less NVH with this and my JHR bracket than I did with the bracket and stock shifter. I had to remove my bracket again to install the shifter so it's possible I repositioned it slightly. It could have been contacting the shifter housing before as I thought it was quite noisy.
With the stock shifter only, I missed third about half the time when taking it to the limit. The JHR bracket eliminated that. With the Hurst I missed third again the first couple times I tried. Although it feels un-natural to me, I've learned that if I just push the shifter straight up rather than putting any side load on it, it will get third no problem.
Once I get used to the Hurst, I think it will do everything I need. And it looks like a muscle car shifter should!
My heart sank when I opened the box because I saw a round black handle. Luckily the chrome one was at the bottom! Turns out Hurst supplies a handle to work with the stock **** if desired. I doubt many would opt for that, just buy a Steed or Barton if you want stock looks.
Box also includes a poly bushing to replace the rubber in the factory mount. Looks like it would do the job rather than buying a separate mount. I already had the JHR mount installed, so I left that as is.
They also include an LED and wiring kit to put a reverse indicator on the dash or a-pillar. I left that in the box too.
Install goes as the other shifters available, pretty straight forward.
The instructions included are a little off. They mention the wrong size wrench for the **** lock-nut, and show you how to just tie wrap the boot to the handle where they actuall include a nice little collar to attach it to.
The only part I didn't like, is that you have to pull the glued-in boot out of the collar where it attaches to the factory **** and damage this collar. You may have to buy a new boot if you go back to stock.
Shifter itself looks decent. I was concerned that the base plate wasn't any better than stock but the stock piece measures about .080" to the Hurst's .100" so there is a little improvement there. Basically I bought this piece for the looks anyway.
Tension for reverse lock-out is spring adjustable by turning an Allen adjuster on the underside of the base plate. I've left mine alone.
Once installed, the **** sits an inch or so higher than stock. Feels and looks good.
Engaging the reverse gate is by pulling the shifter toward you, rather than pushing the **** down. It seems hard to differentiate between 1st at first, but is pretty easy to figure out in practice. Never a doubt what gear I was in.
The throws seem very short (27%?) to me vs. stock. I'd prefer longer, but I'm sure I'll get used to it. For sure more positive and quicker than stock.
Hurst warns about NVH with this shifter and includes some rubber isolaters for the stick if needed. To my surprise I have less NVH with this and my JHR bracket than I did with the bracket and stock shifter. I had to remove my bracket again to install the shifter so it's possible I repositioned it slightly. It could have been contacting the shifter housing before as I thought it was quite noisy.
With the stock shifter only, I missed third about half the time when taking it to the limit. The JHR bracket eliminated that. With the Hurst I missed third again the first couple times I tried. Although it feels un-natural to me, I've learned that if I just push the shifter straight up rather than putting any side load on it, it will get third no problem.
Once I get used to the Hurst, I think it will do everything I need. And it looks like a muscle car shifter should!
#3
Yes, I too intalled my Hurst shifter. My first impressions of the shifter are exactly the same as you. Reverse is very vague, I think Hurst know's this is a bad design so they include wiring and an led light indicator to warn you if you are in reverse. Other than the reverse lock out, the shifter is awesome. Very positive shifts, shorter throws and no miss shifts.
#4
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The deletion of the reverse lockout is exactly why I didn't buy the hurst, to me its absolutely ridiculous.
I also don't like having a shifter that looks like its from 1972 in my brand new car, to me they look so dated and out of place in this interior. I helped a buddy install one in his 2011 Camaro SS before I even ordered my car and thought the same thing then. Plus that base plate looks paper thin compared to the Barton or Steeda.
I guess I should put something constructive in this post other than my disdain for the Hurst shifter, I do like how they give you a new insert for the mount, I bet that does just as good of a job as the 80 dollar ones being sold. And other than looks (which the OP is obviously a fan of) I bet this shifter works as good as any other ones being sold.
I also don't like having a shifter that looks like its from 1972 in my brand new car, to me they look so dated and out of place in this interior. I helped a buddy install one in his 2011 Camaro SS before I even ordered my car and thought the same thing then. Plus that base plate looks paper thin compared to the Barton or Steeda.
I guess I should put something constructive in this post other than my disdain for the Hurst shifter, I do like how they give you a new insert for the mount, I bet that does just as good of a job as the 80 dollar ones being sold. And other than looks (which the OP is obviously a fan of) I bet this shifter works as good as any other ones being sold.
#6
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Thanks for posting in the pics Dacam. I'm too lazy and computer illiterate to do so...
I see you installed the boot the way the instructions say to. I prefer the look of tie-wrapping the boot internally to the second rubber collar and leaving the collar exposed. Looks more finished IMO.
Have a look at the American Muscle site to see how it looks. Not sure why their collar has a split in the corner though...
After a few days with this set-up, I love it. Still have to be careful with reverse though, but it's not a problem if you're thinking about it.
I see you installed the boot the way the instructions say to. I prefer the look of tie-wrapping the boot internally to the second rubber collar and leaving the collar exposed. Looks more finished IMO.
Have a look at the American Muscle site to see how it looks. Not sure why their collar has a split in the corner though...
After a few days with this set-up, I love it. Still have to be careful with reverse though, but it's not a problem if you're thinking about it.
#8
Thanks for posting in the pics Dacam. I'm too lazy and computer illiterate to do so...
I see you installed the boot the way the instructions say to. I prefer the look of tie-wrapping the boot internally to the second rubber collar and leaving the collar exposed. Looks more finished IMO.
Have a look at the American Muscle site to see how it looks. Not sure why their collar has a split in the corner though...
After a few days with this set-up, I love it. Still have to be careful with reverse though, but it's not a problem if you're thinking about it.
I see you installed the boot the way the instructions say to. I prefer the look of tie-wrapping the boot internally to the second rubber collar and leaving the collar exposed. Looks more finished IMO.
Have a look at the American Muscle site to see how it looks. Not sure why their collar has a split in the corner though...
After a few days with this set-up, I love it. Still have to be careful with reverse though, but it's not a problem if you're thinking about it.
#9
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It's a nice looking shifter and I had one in my '05, but in this car ('10-'12 MY) it looks really out of place. Nevertheless, I'm glad you are happy with it.
#10
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Well, I installed the boot this way cause I think my boot may have a small hole than yours. The only way I would tie strap the boot to the collar is to rip open the boot opening hole and make it larger. Which stock shifter did you have? I had the 401a aluminum shift ****. I think this may be why.
Yep, 400a here, so that explains it.
#11
Yes, I too intalled my Hurst shifter. My first impressions of the shifter are exactly the same as you. Reverse is very vague, I think Hurst know's this is a bad design so they include wiring and an led light indicator to warn you if you are in reverse. Other than the reverse lock out, the shifter is awesome. Very positive shifts, shorter throws and no miss shifts.
#12
Does installing this shifter void any warranties? Would hate to void it with all the shifter problems people are having. No real problems with shifting my GTCS...yet. Will see when it gets cold here in ATX. Would love to install this shifter with a T-Handle to match my '71 Mach 1!
#13
Well, I installed the boot this way cause I think my boot may have a small hole than yours. The only way I would tie strap the boot to the collar is to rip open the boot opening hole and make it larger. Which stock shifter did you have? I had the 401a aluminum shift ****. I think this may be why.
so how do i make mine lool like dacams pics
do I"
1..get a new boot for a roush 10up[ handle
3. buy a boot fort a 2010 gt
4. get a 401a 10 up boot
my car has the sloppy big old cheap non 401 a handle
.Your answer is greatly appreciated
i haver attached a pic showing what im trying to do ,,help
Last edited by dlc1; 11/13/11 at 10:37 AM.
#14
Well, I installed the boot this way cause I think my boot may have a small hole than yours. The only way I would tie strap the boot to the collar is to rip open the boot opening hole and make it larger. Which stock shifter did you have? I had the 401a aluminum shift ****. I think this may be why.
is shifter in pics using a 401a boot , roush boot or just regular 6spd manual boot?...im thinking its tie wrapped around rubber bushing using regular old 6spd boot,,if so im good to go ,,if not im gonna get a boot for roush handle and fake it that way, bcause the stick roush uses is similar to hurst
Last edited by dlc1; 11/13/11 at 04:58 PM.
#16
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I was the test car for the shifters the car in your instructions is mine lol
I agree first and reverse are close but this car has plenty of power to start in 2nd and even if you dont like to start in second thats what the light is for. You will get used to it. At first I was never really sure if I was in first or reverse. now its as easy as stock (well almost). you just have to give it a few weeks and you will learn where first is and where reverse is. it will become second nature.
I agree first and reverse are close but this car has plenty of power to start in 2nd and even if you dont like to start in second thats what the light is for. You will get used to it. At first I was never really sure if I was in first or reverse. now its as easy as stock (well almost). you just have to give it a few weeks and you will learn where first is and where reverse is. it will become second nature.
#17
my shifter has a rake it wants to stick between 1st and 2nd ,,its so bad it makes shifting worse than the orginal and lol that bad ..it cause a major delay,,shifting through all the other gears is great..i love the shifter but its definitely not as good as the old s197 one ,,hurst is on it though sending another ..i made no adjustments to reverse lockout, makes me wonder if i had of if this will help ? im hoping next one fixes trouble . im no mechanic but i use to do it alot and i know its in right ..we will see ..if not i see a barton in my future
Last edited by dlc1; 11/16/11 at 08:50 PM.
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