+1 with the others on tires.
Also +1 on not smashing the gas right away, and "rolling" onto the throttle instead of "Jumping" on it.

Part of the idea of Traction Control is to attempt to keep the vehicle straight while you're hammering on it. TCS can apply bakes at individual wheel which are slipping. The LSDs on our cars keep both rear wheels slipping, but TCS will clamp the brakes on both rear wheels at once. (I don't think the Mustang system reduces engine torque, but that's also common on a lot of vehicles). Particularly when you also have steering angle information (like on our Mustangs) and Yaw Rate information (like on our Mustangs). Keeping TC ON should give you straighter launches, but not as good of a burnout or 0-60 when compared to Driver's Best Effort. (I work for a company that makes ABS/TCS/VDC systems among other things by the way)

But I think you're physically overwhelming the traction your rear tires have. My 2014 has 19x9 wheels and 255 tires. I think that's not enough, and I'll be updating to a 275 or 285 setup soon on 19x9.5 wheels. I'd recommend you get wider, stickier tires.

 

This is true only for earlier systems which don't include VDC. These days when you have VDC it will also co-operate with the TCS system to keep the vehicle yaw close to 0 deg/s when you're doing a WOT launch. It's a closed loop controller which compares the vehicle reference speed (derived based on front wheel speed, mathematically transformed to the vehicle center of mass or front axle) to the rear wheel speeds, and if there is more than ~10% slip on the rear, the system will clamp down the brakes till the slip is less than the control target.

But I fully agree, if you want either a good burnout, or best possible launch, TC should be OFF unless you have Launch Control. Launch Control will optimize wheel slip to obtain the best possible acceleration given environmental factors.

 

Thanks everyone for the great tips.

So tire/wheel upgrade is in order.

UCA and LCA would not help, though?

 

I'm not too well versed in suspension setup, but control arms are for the font end. Your issues seems to be with traction on the back end, and I'm not sure how control arms could help with this. I would think a panhard bar and brace might help keep the rear axle in check.

 

i would do Tire wheel first. go with 10 inch rear rim with 275s .

I did this and it hooks alot better.

 

LOL!

 

Lol TMS delivers once again!

 

These cars have control arms in the rear that need to be addressed with traction. Yes they will help as well as lower control arm relocation brackets. Especially if your car is lowered.

 

Ah, thanks for the correction.

 

I can just about get my street tire setup to hook from a dig, just slip the clutch and come into the power "even" not just smashing the gas, if I am bored and want to do some "driving" I will do what you are doing for some fun.

I don't roll all the way into the pedal till around 4500 rpm when the tire starts to hook up.

What mods on the car?

 

 

It's been quite a while since I lowered my car but I think I remember being pleased with the fact that it could put the power down pretty well after having experience a pulleyed GT 500. The way it sits now I can't get **** for traction. I can't go full throttle until third gear. This is after installing BMR springs and then relo brackets. This past weekend I installed BMR LCA's. They look nice but had no effect on my (lack of) traction. Bosses come with 285 Pirelli's which are a cut above the GT all weather tires. Mine sure don't hook.

 

Did you check your Pinion angle in a manual trans it should be -2 to -3. After lowering your car you will need a adj upper control arm to get this setting unless you were able to obtain it with your relocation brackets.

 

This makes me sad.

 

This^
&

This


=cure for cancer

 

The factory tires SUCK!
Well slicks are not really legal on the street (I think drag radials may be though)
Well I have a question, to kinda muddy the pool, What would LCAs do for you? (by them selves) or should you only instal brackets LCAs and UCAs all at once?

 

No flexing of the lower control arms like the stock ones. You need lower control arm relocation brackets if you are lowered to get the correct geometry back. Same with the upper control arm. When you lower the car the pinion angle needs to be brought back into spec. These things are more important for a manual car than an auto.

 

All this talk to TC, VDC, blah blah is really just muddying the waters of what is a basic physical reality of a SRA RWD car.

You have rotational motion having its direction changed at the axle. the pinion gear is trying to twist the rear axle as it enters the case at the pinion shaft, this unweights one side slightly more than the other, leading to the slight creep. No control arm is going to completely eliminate this situation. This is also why it's a little easier to hang the tail out going left than right on most rwd sra cars.

Getting a full straight 11 is as easy as completely overwhelming the traction limits of the tires, reducing this unweighting.

 

I've read some chicken feed in may day but I reiterate...

 

This is why people airbag one side at the dragstrip: There is NOT equal pressure on both tires at the road surface under load. Equalizing this will help limit sidesway.

I get the walk coming out of the burnout box at the track; it's a bit hard to hold doing the three-legged race down there without a line lock. Not too big an issue at the start line as I can pretty much dead hook at my launch rpm with the tires I have at the power level I'm at, assuming they've prepped the track.