Why? I thought loops were only there in case the shaft fails.
Are the 1-piece shafts prone to breaking?

I'm not easy on it, but still, if it's rated for 900+ hp and I'm stock at 420, I shouldn't break it no matter HOW I drive the car, right?


.

 

I am curious about the safety loop too, I will not be adding much if any power, but the driveshaft seems like a good idea, but why pay for and install a loop if the car is not being tracked or a higher HP??
Also, there is no loop on the stock DS so must not be a big deal at stock HP?

 

When my DSS driveshaft comes in I'm installing the bmr safety loop. Since im going for so much power it's for peach of mind like insurance just in case. You never know what can or will happen.

 

Not sure about any of the other ones... But I think I recall seeing in the description that steeda loop does a bit of stiffening. But not sure how...?

 

Stifflers loop is very easy to install and is about $80 shipped. Considering the consequenses of a 1 piece failing, its cheap insurance.

To the OP, the DSS is a quality piece thats quiet and allows you to save money on a UCA, since you dont need to adjust the pinion most of the time.

 

Link? At buystiflers.com it's $120. Thx.

 

Last time I checked BBR had them for $80.

 

http://www.blowbyracing.com/stdrlo20mubo.html

 

It eliminated the clunk in mine......but I added some back with the Watts link and spherical rod ends on my LCAs I put the rear BMR loop on mine. A front would hit the heat shield on my MGW. At 437 rwhp I'm not overly concerned about it. It's cheap insurance but does add 10lbs. At least it's low and to the rear so the best place to add weight on this car.

 

Thx!

 

Stiffler's mom is hot

 

If the driveshaft were to fail at any point, wouldn't it just fall and land on the exhaust?

 

It would rotate about 20 times hitting your trans, exhaust and could possibly go thru the floor into your seat.

 

Ol aluminum enema.

 

I am pretty sure that would leave a mark that won't buff out.

 

Haha!

 

I have a DSS driveshaft and stiflers loop on my 2012 A6 GT and love them both..coming from a drag race back ground.. I will always have a loop on a rear wheel drive car, seen 1st hand the damage that a u-joint or driveshaft failure can cause.. even on a street car

 

I also hate the clunk ,is there a less costly way to eliminate it? Would an aftermarket upper control arm do it ?

 

It didn't on mine. I have the Steeda adj UCA with spherical bearing and it still clunked until I just put in the DSS. Now it's mostly gone.