Best forced induction for under 8k
#1
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Best forced induction for under 8k
I have about 8k saved right now and been looking at adding either a turbo or a supercharger to my 2011 GT.. So if yall had 8k which route would you take and what brand and why??
#2
Originally Posted by ZackeryJc
I have about 8k saved right now and been looking at adding either a turbo or a supercharger to my 2011 GT.. So if yall had 8k which route would you take and what brand and why??
#3
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When figuring out what you can afford for that $8k, don't forget to factor in that you need ( or should consider ) a twin disc clutch. The McLeod RXT and RST are good from what I've heard - which one you get depends on the level of street-ability you need.
#5
if i had 8g to spend it would be on a vortec, clutch, and long tubes. that should leave you a g or so for tuning and expenses.
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Thanks for the info.. I will look into those. I am just going to use the car for mostly street use with acouple times at the track
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#8
KBs run way to hot. if you want a positive displacement go wipple. twin turbos will eat up all your budget and leave no room for error. vortec/paxton kit with 8psi is good for 600+, 11-12 psi and your making 700 with a few supporting mods(exhaust, boss intake). you tube beefcake racing. A couple guys at my track are running the vortech/paxton kit on otherwise stock cars with 15" rims and slicks and there kicking of 10.30 times at 130+. all on 93oct and a safe steetable tune. when you get over the 600hp mark you with need things besides a clutch too. like a 1 piece drive shaft, bigger fuel pump. cost add up quick. turbos are cool but the benefit per dollar just isnt there. I will be putting my money into a black vortech kit. positive displacment is cool because it make your motor feel twice as big, but they get super hot and take forever to cool back down. turbos make crazy power but take allot of risk: boost creep, compressor surge. and the install is a major undertaking. the centri superchargers make solid power, pull like a frieight train and are reliable. plus witha 40$ tool lit and some "want to" you can intal it in your driveway in just 5-6 hours. also i know that there are people that can get the vortec/paxton kit with injectors and a smaller pulleys(stock kits are 6.5psi i belive) for under 5gs.
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KBs run way to hot. if you want a positive displacement go wipple. twin turbos will eat up all your budget and leave no room for error. vortec/paxton kit with 8psi is good for 600+, 11-12 psi and your making 700 with a few supporting mods(exhaust, boss intake). you tube beefcake racing. A couple guys at my track are running the vortech/paxton kit on otherwise stock cars with 15" rims and slicks and there kicking of 10.30 times at 130+. all on 93oct and a safe steetable tune. when you get over the 600hp mark you with need things besides a clutch too. like a 1 piece drive shaft, bigger fuel pump. cost add up quick. turbos are cool but the benefit per dollar just isnt there. I will be putting my money into a black vortech kit. positive displacment is cool because it make your motor feel twice as big, but they get super hot and take forever to cool back down. turbos make crazy power but take allot of risk: boost creep, compressor surge. and the install is a major undertaking. the centri superchargers make solid power, pull like a frieight train and are reliable. plus witha 40$ tool lit and some "want to" you can intal it in your driveway in just 5-6 hours. also i know that there are people that can get the vortec/paxton kit with injectors and a smaller pulleys(stock kits are 6.5psi i belive) for under 5gs.
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If it were me, I'd keep saving and go with either 2.9L Whipple or the 2.8LC Kenne Bell and upgrade your clutch at the same time... It might take you a while longer to save to get there, but IMO it will be worth it. This is what I plan on doing once my warranty is up, but I'll do forged internals as well just to be safe... It all depends on what you want to do and your long term plans for the car.
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If it were me, I'd keep saving and go with either 2.9L Whipple or the 2.8LC Kenne Bell and upgrade your clutch at the same time... It might take you a while longer to save to get there, but IMO it will be worth it. This is what I plan on doing once my warranty is up, but I'll do forged internals as well just to be safe... It all depends on what you want to do and your long term plans for the car.
#16
Originally Posted by ZackeryJc
Nice, I looked at the black vortec and thats also on my list.. mite run that route since all the other parts add up and will run over my budget.. thanks
#17
you can't really show Beefcakes car, you're looking at a fully forged engine and a whole slew of other parts. 20k plus in performance parts. I won't lie though, Paxton and Vortech offer some fantastic performance upgrades for the cost but for how long? Has anyone ran these on their car for 30-40 or even 50k miles? I know you can run a TVS and a whipple for that long and still be worry free. I wouldn't run a KB on anything, if you live anywhere with heat you'll have issues also I've never seen a KB blower last as long as Roush or Whipple. For 8k you could get a Roush TVS capable of 600+ RWHP and have room left over for a clutch and flywheel.
#18
you can't really show Beefcakes car, you're looking at a fully forged engine and a whole slew of other parts. 20k plus in performance parts. I won't lie though, Paxton and Vortech offer some fantastic performance upgrades for the cost but for how long? Has anyone ran these on their car for 30-40 or even 50k miles? I know you can run a TVS and a whipple for that long and still be worry free. I wouldn't run a KB on anything, if you live anywhere with heat you'll have issues also I've never seen a KB blower last as long as Roush or Whipple. For 8k you could get a Roush TVS capable of 600+ RWHP and have room left over for a clutch and flywheel.
i had vortec on my 01 gt a decade ago and put 40k+ on the blower with no issues. i know the the blocks have been letting go at around 800-850 crank after lot of abuse. but ive not heard of any issues with the blowers. the centris run cooler than any PD blower; screw, roots, or tvs. and the air to air intercooler are more efficent than a air/water/manifold set up. so you can run the same boost with cooler temps and run more timing and make more power per pound of boost. the centris also have less drag than a PD so less power is lost to turning the blower. as well for tuning purposes; a blow through MAF post intercooler a few inches from the throttle body will have a cleaner signal and less delay than a MAF reading vacuum 2 feet away from the manifold. in the end the all the blowers( -KB) are all fairly reliable. the life of the motor comes down to how far its pushed and the tune. PDs give the HUGE motor feel and make a 5.0 feel like rev happy 8.0, the centris are more like a turbo with a more linear powerband and high end power.
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check out brenspeed.com ... they're fi sections have great info and videos with dyno numbers to boot. good luck in your endeavors, can't wait to see what you get!
#20
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I went 10.35 with a Roush TVS, stock air box, 82mm pulley, pump gas, long tube headers and minor suspension work.
All this under 8K
All this under 8K
Last edited by Scuba-Matt; 2/5/13 at 05:40 AM.