M3hunter

Has some one used whiteline suspension anti-dive kit or any other anti dive device, and which where your results?

Dr Evil

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908ssp

I noticed you have posted this question to almost all the forums have you gotten any answers?

I installed some compliance limiters to my front suspension today but I won't test them till next spring. I call them compliance limiters rather than anti dive because I think as I mention to you before that is a misnomer. Replacement bushings like the Whiteline product or heavy spring like suggested on that dark forum are compliance limiters or spring rate increasers not really anti dive. Now I think you want to know about the replacement bushings I'd like to hear about it too.

I also have never seen any discussion on the self correcting geometry of that large hydro bushing. Those big bushing were originally designed to introduce a sort of automatic self correcting feature to the front suspension. The bushing moves under strong cornering load when say an oil spot appears that load is decreased instantaneously and the bushing springs back so that when the traction is resumed the car doesn't continuing to slide like it might if there was no compliance. On a race car with race tires this compliance would be a problem and Steeda doesn't recommend using their replacement bushings on the street. They do make a street version which is a kind of half way step I think and what i copied to try next spring.

M3hunter

Well after reading here and there, the only option that I saw is whiteline anti-dive device, for the price I don't think is worth it. It will be a better option the one that Sam Strano recommends some Steeda sport springs with Koni shocks, that is the route that I will take. At this time I'm undecided between the STR.T or the adjustables yellow both from Koni. I really like the adjustable yellows but the price of the STR.T goes more with my budget and my personal need: Daily driving + ocassional track.

908ssp

I already did springs and struts and the Whiteline bushings is not a substitute for spring and shocks. But there is still some vagueness caused from the soft bushings.

slidejob

Have you considered a torque arm?

It helps keep the axle from rotating under acceleration & braking, there by taking away some brake dive. I had a torque arm on my SCCA AS Mustang & it worked very well.

There inexpensive & easy to install.

M3hunter

Sounds interesting, I will like to know more about the torque arm, and how this will help to reduce brake dive?

slidejob

Find enclosed a link to Griggs Racing, it should help your search. I don't see an 05+ listing, if they don't make it I'm sure someone does.

http://www.griggsracing.com/torque_arm_kits.html

When I built my SN95 AS car I built it from a body in white. I fabricated most of the parts myself including the torque arm which was made from chrome molly pipe, rod ends & bracket material, total cost couldn't have been more then 40$, plus my time.

I will have to take back my comment about being inexpensive, these kits cost quite a bit more then my build. If you can fabricate I'm sure it could be done for very little money. It's been quite sometime since I have looked into a torque arm & can appreciate these outfits wanting to make $$$. You may be better off getting the Koni & spring setup if that is what your budget warrants.

Basically a torque arm performs with "action/reaction". Under hard acceleration & hard braking it keeps the rear end planted thereby reducing huge weight transfers.

Hope this helps.

sam strano

A 3rd link and a TA do similar jobs. They keep the axle from rotating. A TA will not make the car dive less, lots of TA cars out there (I even own a solid axle pony-car car that's 3429 pounds with a Torque Arm).

A TA won't lessen the rear of the car to lift under braking. I'm sure on your SN95 it was a huge improvement over the 4 link, but that's also a much worse setup to start with, and i'm guessing that since you built it from a body in white the TA was not added separately.

Herb Adams discusses TA's in his book a bit. Interestingly discussing decoupled TA's he explains that when a TA is directly connected to the chassis that under braking it will cause the rear axle to lift off the ground, causing brake hop. So they believed in decoupling the TA under braking. While you could say that you have less dive because of the solid type connection (and I admit you will have a bit less) you then run the risk of brake hop, which is a solid axle car issue. One you don't need to tempt to show up and a TA is no guarantee you won't get it.

Some brake dive is not a terrible thing, and even if it's more than maybe you want there are ways to lessen it. And the last thing I want to do, personally, is strap a bit heavy piece of steel to the car, adding weight--and in this case a lot of unsprung weight to do the job the 3rd link already does IMHO more effeciently.

That's just me, and frankly if there was a way I could easily swap my Camaro from a TA to a 3 link, I'd do it in a minute.

slidejob

Hey Sam, your correct about wheel hop, but only if you dial in too much anti-squat. I learned that you must keep it to a range of 40-60% anti-squat. I also changed out the top arm bolts with smaller diameter bolts with lock nuts, thereby taking out as much binding action as possible, as the top arms were ineffective, so in a sense it was a 3 link setup. Yes, the 4 link is an awful setup on the SN95, so working with what you have & staying in the rules is a compromise sometimes.

As I stated, after finding out the cost of torque arms & if you can't fabricate your own, M3hunter would most likely be better off with a kit from you. Your kit & some dot tires will make the 5.0 a M3 killer!!