Yep, you're probably at 3700 lbs+ and on 91 octane that's pretty solid. Maybe I'll get to a drag strip this summer for the first time in like 12 years and see how I do with my car... if I can trap 112 or better I think I'd be happy.

 

There's an 1/8 mile track going up in Windham.
I'll be up there all the time racing.

 

Huh? It doesn't matter where the added tq is in the band. "Peak tq" is not what's at the redline, it's the highest point. The +60, even at 1500 rpms is now the peak.

Therefore, he is accurate in saying the tune gives 450 tq.

 

As I understand, the tunes give large torque gains at lower RPM's (+60 ctq over stock at say 1500 RPM) but less gain at peak torque (say +15 ctq at peak for total of ~405). Those are made up numbers, but that's the message that was trying to be conveyed.

Still, increases anywhere are good!

 

Understood. However when a car is advertised with HP and TQ numbers as peak that is the highest they hit on the curve.

Your terminology is incorrect. "Peak" numbers are not at the top of the band but the highest number on the band.

I get what you're saying. I'm just defending the original statement of the tune giving 426hp and 450tq. This is accurate since those numbers are "peak". The 390 claimed from the factory hits at about 4500 rpms and then tapers down from there. This tune adds the tq to the bottom end creating more power "under the curve".

Anyone who has tuned before knows that this is ideal. Low peak tq.

 

Agree more area under the curve.

My terminology is correct. Torque gains at the RPM at which the engine creates peak torque are far less then 60ft-lb. Quote from Ford Racing:
Approximate peak increases of 16 hp / 9 lb-ft over stock
HUGE 60 lb-ft Torque increase at 1,500 RPM.

So based in this the tune makes 399 crank torque as a maximum value, and 436 chp as a max power.

 

'cept I only started with 412 CHP and dragstrip-dynoed 439.

 

Is the K&N filter a "dry" type or an oil soaked sponge type? I would be interested in this package but would be reluctant to go away from a dry type air filter.

 

It's oil soaked. I've had too many issues with maf's getting gunked from the oil.

I only run aem dry flow now. They make one for the 5.0. It's around $50.

 

I have the Ford Racing Pro Cal tune. I bought the K&N, but have not installed it. The car runs great with the stock filter and intake (auto trans). I especially like the torque of this engine.

What are the pros & cons of using the stock filter?

My guess: slightly more HP with the K&N and perhaps a slight increase in MPG, but with less filtering of the air flow than the stock filter.

Dave

 

The new filter doesn't filter less. It will actually filter more even though it still allows more air flow. Kinda goes against logic. Anyway, it's not really going to add any power or mpgs. But it is much better quality and will last much longer. Since you have the k&n though I'd stick with stock. K&n swear that the oil won't cause problems but it most certainly will. I've personally seen it destroy the MAF on an RSX type s, 350z and sentra ser spec v. I only use aem dry flow, which since owned by k&n is identical except for the oil vs no oil.

 

The problems you mentioned might be caused by owners cleaning, then over-oiling the filter. The excess oil then gets sucked into the intake.

In any event, the stock air filter, changed every 10,000 miles or so, is a safe bet for engine longevity.

Dave

 

Possible based on what I told you. However this is not the case. If anything they were underoiled to prevent the issue to no avail. Plus I've seen it happen with a brand new filter oiled by k&n.

Stock filter replaced often or an aem dry flow is the way to go.

 

Types,

Where can you get this aem dry filter? Magnuson's sc kit came with a box KN filter. Not sure if it was oiled, but probably. So far no issues, over a few hundred miles, but would like to switch to aem.

 

I will add to your list 2002 Audi S4 and 2002 Nissan Maxima for MAF's that were killed. Two on the Maxima, and the S4 I was able to clean...

 

For a standard oem box replacment? That's here http://www.aemintakes.com/store/prod...?prod=28-20431. Nice! $44 and free shipping!

But they also have general cone filter sizes if it's something aftermarket. For example I have an aem dry flow cone on my injen cai for the RSX.

 

That's exactly what I was looking for sir. Thank you. Magnuson uses the oem box, but KnN ... So I wanted to switch to dry.

 

Sweet! Yeah it's good stuff. Fully enclosed in silicone on the sides makes it very durable. It's like having a cheap filter in your home ac vs a nice 3m one. It might not make my electric bill lower and the dry flow probably doesn't add any hp. But I'd like to think the coyote thanks me.

 

highly recommend you slap in the k&n filter. Highly.

 

Not arguing but I've never heard of k&n killing cars. I've been using them for years with no issues.

If k&n filter is bad then why would ford offer it in the Procal package?