Repeated brake issues
Repeated brake issues
I Have a 07 Mustang Gt Premium it's currently my daily driver. For the past year had various brake issues all rotors and calipers replaced within the year and 1 brake hose. Recently yesterday 11/30/24 had my rear driver side brakes stick to the point where the rotor got RED hot. Coincidentally Its the same side I had brake components replaced for the same issue 2 times before I'm honestly not sure what's going on the car drove perfectly fine it sat for 3 days during this Thanksgiving week and I went to go run some errands and it decided to start this issue again. I was hoping I still had the Warranty for the parts but Im over the driving mileage for them so no warranty anymore. Any ideas why im constantly having this issue brake fluid is good all other brakes other than the rear are good rear passenger dosent look bad or like it was sticking its just mainly the driver side rear that you can definitely tell it keeps sticking but it had a new brake hose caliper pads rotors so I don't understand what is causing this. Any ideas or help is appreciated!!
Administrator clevparts@aol.com





Joined: November 27, 2004
Posts: 12,588
Likes: 4,341
From: Visalia Ca.
Welcome,
Here are Some Shop Manual PDF'S Which Maybe Helpful.
Have You Checked To See if the Parking Brake Cable are Binding. They Had an Issue Early On Where They Would Freeze Up on Stick! I Realize This is an Old TSb For Early Models But it Could Still be an Issue With Later Cars. Also Do You Have a Code Reader Capable Of Checking For Any ABS/Body Codes. If Not a Trip To A Parts House To Check & See if Any Codes are Set Might Be a Good Check To Do!
KC
Here are Some Shop Manual PDF'S Which Maybe Helpful.
Have You Checked To See if the Parking Brake Cable are Binding. They Had an Issue Early On Where They Would Freeze Up on Stick! I Realize This is an Old TSb For Early Models But it Could Still be an Issue With Later Cars. Also Do You Have a Code Reader Capable Of Checking For Any ABS/Body Codes. If Not a Trip To A Parts House To Check & See if Any Codes are Set Might Be a Good Check To Do!
KC
Administrator clevparts@aol.com





Joined: November 27, 2004
Posts: 12,588
Likes: 4,341
From: Visalia Ca.
I Would Also Check the Caliper Anchor Bracket {See Number 7 in Exploded View} & Caliper To See if Caliper Floats Freely Back & Forth You Could Test Without Pads To See if Any Binding Occurs. May Need a Little File Work if Burrs are Present!
Kc
Kc
thanks for the help! I'll definitely check it out there's no codes for the parking everything is showing good the emergency brake did feel a bit weird so im gonna look into that now.
Administrator clevparts@aol.com





Joined: November 27, 2004
Posts: 12,588
Likes: 4,341
From: Visalia Ca.
Sounds Good! To Be Clear I Was Thinking Possible ABS Codes. I Realize I Was Not Clear on That. But No Codes is No Codes!
Might Be Able To Shoot Some Penetrating Oil Into Parking Cable Ends To Free Up! Have a Helper Apply & Release P/B While You Spray To Work it in. Something Like PB Blaster Will Creep in Once You get it Started.
KC
Might Be Able To Shoot Some Penetrating Oil Into Parking Cable Ends To Free Up! Have a Helper Apply & Release P/B While You Spray To Work it in. Something Like PB Blaster Will Creep in Once You get it Started.
KC
like he said, make sure the caliper is sliding freely and the parking brake cable and mechanism are not stuck
if you take a wheel off, you can see the lever attached to the rear of the caliper, and work it back and forth to make sure it is free
Also check to make sure the pistons were oriented correctly when the pads were changed. The piston has two notches in it, that should fit over the two rivet/buttons on the back of the pad. If the piston was not rotated to the correct position before installing the new pads, the pad will ride up on top of those buttons and not sit flat/correctly; that will cause it to rub and get hot like you describe. (ask me how I know, LOL
)
if you take a wheel off, you can see the lever attached to the rear of the caliper, and work it back and forth to make sure it is free
Also check to make sure the pistons were oriented correctly when the pads were changed. The piston has two notches in it, that should fit over the two rivet/buttons on the back of the pad. If the piston was not rotated to the correct position before installing the new pads, the pad will ride up on top of those buttons and not sit flat/correctly; that will cause it to rub and get hot like you describe. (ask me how I know, LOL
)
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