Overcharging Issue
8/31/22, 12:13 PM
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Overcharging Issue
I’m lost on what’s going on
my 2008 Bullitt used to tear through alternators cause it was over spinning them. Now after steedas underdrive pulley system. After 3 weeks my alternator is overcharging my system.
I contacted PA performance and sent it to them to look at, they sent it back with nothing found to be wrong but replaced the voltage reg just in case. Well I put it back into the car yesterday and last night the overcharging came back. The voltage spikes up to almost 17 volts at around 3k RPM or when I’m on the gas from 1-3 gear. I’m just lost as to what’s happening. I’ve tested the battery and it came back good. Ran a alternator test my self and haven’t found anything out of the blue. I made sure my connections are tight as well but still over charging with voltage spikes. I’m just so confused.
my lights will dim and shut off interior lights as well but will never drop below 13v - 13.5v
my 2008 Bullitt used to tear through alternators cause it was over spinning them. Now after steedas underdrive pulley system. After 3 weeks my alternator is overcharging my system.
I contacted PA performance and sent it to them to look at, they sent it back with nothing found to be wrong but replaced the voltage reg just in case. Well I put it back into the car yesterday and last night the overcharging came back. The voltage spikes up to almost 17 volts at around 3k RPM or when I’m on the gas from 1-3 gear. I’m just lost as to what’s happening. I’ve tested the battery and it came back good. Ran a alternator test my self and haven’t found anything out of the blue. I made sure my connections are tight as well but still over charging with voltage spikes. I’m just so confused.
my lights will dim and shut off interior lights as well but will never drop below 13v - 13.5v
Last edited by TheBullitt; 8/31/22 at 12:18 PM.
8/31/22, 12:32 PM
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Hello,
How about some backstory on the Car Such as How Long you have Had the Car and How Many Miles on the Car, Is it Highly Modified and what are the Circumstances as to When you first started having the Problem? Was it After a Jump Start Also How are the Battery Cables Looking and has the Engine been out of the Car? Have you Checked for Any Trouble Codes?
After a Little Digging I seem to Recall the Alternator is PCM Controlled. Take a Look at This!
https://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/altern...napaechlin.pdf
This would Seem to Verify Pcm Controlled Alternator.
https://www.phoenix-alternator.com/P...x?IDNum=113922
Interesting Insite here a Well on the Alternators!
https://www.electricalrebuilders.org...regulators.pdf
I checked the Ford Shop Manual for the Lowdown. It's a Pain to Properly Diagnose. Here is their Description of the System!Principles of Operation
The PCM controlled charging system determines the optimal voltage setpoint for the charging system and communicates this information to the voltage regulator. This system is unique in that it has 2 communication lines between the PCM and the generator/regulator. Both of these communication lines are pulse-width modulated (PWM). The generator communication (GENCOM) line communicates the desired setpoint from the PCM to the voltage regulator. The generator monitor (GENMON) line communicates the generator load and error conditions to the PCM. The third pin on the voltage regulator, the A circuit pin, is a dedicated battery voltage sense line.
The generator charges the battery and at the same time supplies power for all of the electrical loads that are required. The battery is more effectively charged with a higher voltage when the battery is cold and a lower voltage when the battery is warm. The PCM is able to adjust the charging voltage according to the battery temperature by using a signal from the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. This means the voltage setpoint is calculated by the PCM and communicated to the regulator by the GENCOM circuit.
The PCM simultaneously controls and monitors the output of the generator. When the current consumption is high or the battery is discharged the PCM raises engine speed to increase generator output.
To minimize the engine drag when starting the engine, the PCM does not allow the generator to produce any output until the engine has started. The PCM turns off the generator during cranking to reduce the starter load and improve cranking speed. Once the engine starts, the PCM slowly increases generator output to help establish a stable engine speed.
The PCM controls the charging system warning indicator by sending a message over the high-speed controller area network (HS-CAN) to the instrument cluster (IC). The PCM turns the charging system warning indicator off when generator output begins. The charging system warning indicator is also illuminated by the PCM whenever the key is ON with the engine OFF.
This is a System 4 charging system, which uses the GENMON and GENCOM lines to control and monitor the charging system through the PCM. System 4 charging systems are virtually identical in design and therefore, share the same diagnostics. The circuit numbers and colors may be different, but the functions are the same.
Welcome,
KC
How about some backstory on the Car Such as How Long you have Had the Car and How Many Miles on the Car, Is it Highly Modified and what are the Circumstances as to When you first started having the Problem? Was it After a Jump Start Also How are the Battery Cables Looking and has the Engine been out of the Car? Have you Checked for Any Trouble Codes?
After a Little Digging I seem to Recall the Alternator is PCM Controlled. Take a Look at This!
https://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/altern...napaechlin.pdf
This would Seem to Verify Pcm Controlled Alternator.
https://www.phoenix-alternator.com/P...x?IDNum=113922
Interesting Insite here a Well on the Alternators!
https://www.electricalrebuilders.org...regulators.pdf
I checked the Ford Shop Manual for the Lowdown. It's a Pain to Properly Diagnose. Here is their Description of the System!Principles of Operation
The PCM controlled charging system determines the optimal voltage setpoint for the charging system and communicates this information to the voltage regulator. This system is unique in that it has 2 communication lines between the PCM and the generator/regulator. Both of these communication lines are pulse-width modulated (PWM). The generator communication (GENCOM) line communicates the desired setpoint from the PCM to the voltage regulator. The generator monitor (GENMON) line communicates the generator load and error conditions to the PCM. The third pin on the voltage regulator, the A circuit pin, is a dedicated battery voltage sense line.
The generator charges the battery and at the same time supplies power for all of the electrical loads that are required. The battery is more effectively charged with a higher voltage when the battery is cold and a lower voltage when the battery is warm. The PCM is able to adjust the charging voltage according to the battery temperature by using a signal from the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. This means the voltage setpoint is calculated by the PCM and communicated to the regulator by the GENCOM circuit.
The PCM simultaneously controls and monitors the output of the generator. When the current consumption is high or the battery is discharged the PCM raises engine speed to increase generator output.
To minimize the engine drag when starting the engine, the PCM does not allow the generator to produce any output until the engine has started. The PCM turns off the generator during cranking to reduce the starter load and improve cranking speed. Once the engine starts, the PCM slowly increases generator output to help establish a stable engine speed.
The PCM controls the charging system warning indicator by sending a message over the high-speed controller area network (HS-CAN) to the instrument cluster (IC). The PCM turns the charging system warning indicator off when generator output begins. The charging system warning indicator is also illuminated by the PCM whenever the key is ON with the engine OFF.
This is a System 4 charging system, which uses the GENMON and GENCOM lines to control and monitor the charging system through the PCM. System 4 charging systems are virtually identical in design and therefore, share the same diagnostics. The circuit numbers and colors may be different, but the functions are the same.
Welcome,
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 8/31/22 at 01:40 PM.
8/31/22, 06:52 PM
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Hello,
How about some backstory on the Car Such as How Long you have Had the Car and How Many Miles on the Car, Is it Highly Modified and what are the Circumstances as to When you first started having the Problem? Was it After a Jump Start Also How are the Battery Cables Looking and has the Engine been out of the Car? Have you Checked for Any Trouble Codes?
After a Little Digging I seem to Recall the Alternator is PCM Controlled. Take a Look at This!
https://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/altern...napaechlin.pdf
This would Seem to Verify Pcm Controlled Alternator.
https://www.phoenix-alternator.com/P...x?IDNum=113922
Interesting Insite here a Well on the Alternators!
https://www.electricalrebuilders.org...regulators.pdf
I checked the Ford Shop Manual for the Lowdown. It's a Pain to Properly Diagnose. Here is their Description of the System!Principles of Operation
The PCM controlled charging system determines the optimal voltage setpoint for the charging system and communicates this information to the voltage regulator. This system is unique in that it has 2 communication lines between the PCM and the generator/regulator. Both of these communication lines are pulse-width modulated (PWM). The generator communication (GENCOM) line communicates the desired setpoint from the PCM to the voltage regulator. The generator monitor (GENMON) line communicates the generator load and error conditions to the PCM. The third pin on the voltage regulator, the A circuit pin, is a dedicated battery voltage sense line.
The generator charges the battery and at the same time supplies power for all of the electrical loads that are required. The battery is more effectively charged with a higher voltage when the battery is cold and a lower voltage when the battery is warm. The PCM is able to adjust the charging voltage according to the battery temperature by using a signal from the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. This means the voltage setpoint is calculated by the PCM and communicated to the regulator by the GENCOM circuit.
The PCM simultaneously controls and monitors the output of the generator. When the current consumption is high or the battery is discharged the PCM raises engine speed to increase generator output.
To minimize the engine drag when starting the engine, the PCM does not allow the generator to produce any output until the engine has started. The PCM turns off the generator during cranking to reduce the starter load and improve cranking speed. Once the engine starts, the PCM slowly increases generator output to help establish a stable engine speed.
The PCM controls the charging system warning indicator by sending a message over the high-speed controller area network (HS-CAN) to the instrument cluster (IC). The PCM turns the charging system warning indicator off when generator output begins. The charging system warning indicator is also illuminated by the PCM whenever the key is ON with the engine OFF.
This is a System 4 charging system, which uses the GENMON and GENCOM lines to control and monitor the charging system through the PCM. System 4 charging systems are virtually identical in design and therefore, share the same diagnostics. The circuit numbers and colors may be different, but the functions are the same.
Welcome,
KC
How about some backstory on the Car Such as How Long you have Had the Car and How Many Miles on the Car, Is it Highly Modified and what are the Circumstances as to When you first started having the Problem? Was it After a Jump Start Also How are the Battery Cables Looking and has the Engine been out of the Car? Have you Checked for Any Trouble Codes?
After a Little Digging I seem to Recall the Alternator is PCM Controlled. Take a Look at This!
https://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/altern...napaechlin.pdf
This would Seem to Verify Pcm Controlled Alternator.
https://www.phoenix-alternator.com/P...x?IDNum=113922
Interesting Insite here a Well on the Alternators!
https://www.electricalrebuilders.org...regulators.pdf
I checked the Ford Shop Manual for the Lowdown. It's a Pain to Properly Diagnose. Here is their Description of the System!Principles of Operation
The PCM controlled charging system determines the optimal voltage setpoint for the charging system and communicates this information to the voltage regulator. This system is unique in that it has 2 communication lines between the PCM and the generator/regulator. Both of these communication lines are pulse-width modulated (PWM). The generator communication (GENCOM) line communicates the desired setpoint from the PCM to the voltage regulator. The generator monitor (GENMON) line communicates the generator load and error conditions to the PCM. The third pin on the voltage regulator, the A circuit pin, is a dedicated battery voltage sense line.
The generator charges the battery and at the same time supplies power for all of the electrical loads that are required. The battery is more effectively charged with a higher voltage when the battery is cold and a lower voltage when the battery is warm. The PCM is able to adjust the charging voltage according to the battery temperature by using a signal from the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. This means the voltage setpoint is calculated by the PCM and communicated to the regulator by the GENCOM circuit.
The PCM simultaneously controls and monitors the output of the generator. When the current consumption is high or the battery is discharged the PCM raises engine speed to increase generator output.
To minimize the engine drag when starting the engine, the PCM does not allow the generator to produce any output until the engine has started. The PCM turns off the generator during cranking to reduce the starter load and improve cranking speed. Once the engine starts, the PCM slowly increases generator output to help establish a stable engine speed.
The PCM controls the charging system warning indicator by sending a message over the high-speed controller area network (HS-CAN) to the instrument cluster (IC). The PCM turns the charging system warning indicator off when generator output begins. The charging system warning indicator is also illuminated by the PCM whenever the key is ON with the engine OFF.
This is a System 4 charging system, which uses the GENMON and GENCOM lines to control and monitor the charging system through the PCM. System 4 charging systems are virtually identical in design and therefore, share the same diagnostics. The circuit numbers and colors may be different, but the functions are the same.
Welcome,
KC
2008 Bullitt, 99700 miles (close estimate),
I have had it for roughly 5 months now and it’s been a non stop issue with its alternators. It wasn’t until I found out the reason it destroys alternators is because it spins the alternators at 18000ish rpm when they can only handle 14000-16000 so when I installed the underdrive pulleys it slowed it down to only spinning them at about 13900 rpm.
I went through 10 alternators in 5 months because it just destroyed the shafts or burnt out the stators like crazy from the heat the bearings would make when they were spun so high.
the current alternator was a brand new unit like I said was also tested and had a new voltage reg replaced and was tested twice. PA doesn’t know what’s wrong so hopefully tomorrow the auto electric shop I’m taking it to have looked at will be able to pin point the issue. I’d do it my self but with my work schedule and 2 other cars it’s not so easy fixing her. When she’s running, she runs strong, just seems to be she doesn’t very much like electricity.
All that’s done to it is mechanical stuff, better pistons, rods, cam and exhaust. Other than that all the electrical is stock besides the PA performance alternator obviously. Everything aside from that is stock, would the Shaker500 that’s in be a possible issue? I heard those like to draw a lot of power but it’s a 200amp alternator so I wouldn’t think it would be like this. I haven’t had a battery light or codes come on so that’s why I’m lost.
thanks for the links tho, I will check them out
8/31/22, 07:57 PM
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I think it's Heading Toward a Pcm or Even Cluster Issue. With the Mods It's Likely the Pcm has Been Reprogrmmed. Do you Have a Tuner That Came With it or Do you Know Previous Owner you Could Get some More Info From. If the Pcm is Replaced your gonna Lose that Tune and With Different Cams I bet it will Have Driveablity Issues That is unless they can transfer existing info.
I don't Know if the alternator Issue could be a piece of Bad Programming in the Pcm or a Defect in the Pcm. The Ford Shop Manual I am Using is an Interactive Type so I can't Post the Process but I can tell you it is Point By Point by Point Depending on readings. So be advised Everything is intertwined an can be a Can o Worms.
Post your Vin or Email it to me so I can Check something that may or may not shed a little light.
Even with the Mods, the alternator Should Survive The Rpm's Especially For such a Short Period of Time . I would Think If they Didn't they would be a ton of Online Posts complaining about them. At Least that's my Assumption.
Could Also be as Simple as a Pinched Wire Somewhere or a Ground Wire Cut.
Here is Another Link to check These Guys Seen to Be Very Alternator Saavy Might Want to Check Them Out & Call with Questions.
https://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/
KC
I don't Know if the alternator Issue could be a piece of Bad Programming in the Pcm or a Defect in the Pcm. The Ford Shop Manual I am Using is an Interactive Type so I can't Post the Process but I can tell you it is Point By Point by Point Depending on readings. So be advised Everything is intertwined an can be a Can o Worms.
Post your Vin or Email it to me so I can Check something that may or may not shed a little light.
Even with the Mods, the alternator Should Survive The Rpm's Especially For such a Short Period of Time . I would Think If they Didn't they would be a ton of Online Posts complaining about them. At Least that's my Assumption.
Could Also be as Simple as a Pinched Wire Somewhere or a Ground Wire Cut.
Here is Another Link to check These Guys Seen to Be Very Alternator Saavy Might Want to Check Them Out & Call with Questions.
https://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 8/31/22 at 08:52 PM.
9/1/22, 06:23 AM
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I think it's Heading Toward a Pcm or Even Cluster Issue. With the Mods It's Likely the Pcm has Been Reprogrmmed. Do you Have a Tuner That Came With it or Do you Know Previous Owner you Could Get some More Info From. If the Pcm is Replaced your gonna Lose that Tune and With Different Cams I bet it will Have Driveablity Issues That is unless they can transfer existing info.
I don't Know if the alternator Issue could be a piece of Bad Programming in the Pcm or a Defect in the Pcm. The Ford Shop Manual I am Using is an Interactive Type so I can't Post the Process but I can tell you it is Point By Point by Point Depending on readings. So be advised Everything is intertwined an can be a Can o Worms.
Post your Vin or Email it to me so I can Check something that may or may not shed a little light.
Even with the Mods, the alternator Should Survive The Rpm's Especially For such a Short Period of Time . I would Think If they Didn't they would be a ton of Online Posts complaining about them. At Least that's my Assumption.
Could Also be as Simple as a Pinched Wire Somewhere or a Ground Wire Cut.
Here is Another Link to check These Guys Seen to Be Very Alternator Saavy Might Want to Check Them Out & Call with Questions.
https://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/
KC
I don't Know if the alternator Issue could be a piece of Bad Programming in the Pcm or a Defect in the Pcm. The Ford Shop Manual I am Using is an Interactive Type so I can't Post the Process but I can tell you it is Point By Point by Point Depending on readings. So be advised Everything is intertwined an can be a Can o Worms.
Post your Vin or Email it to me so I can Check something that may or may not shed a little light.
Even with the Mods, the alternator Should Survive The Rpm's Especially For such a Short Period of Time . I would Think If they Didn't they would be a ton of Online Posts complaining about them. At Least that's my Assumption.
Could Also be as Simple as a Pinched Wire Somewhere or a Ground Wire Cut.
Here is Another Link to check These Guys Seen to Be Very Alternator Saavy Might Want to Check Them Out & Call with Questions.
https://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 9/1/22 at 11:02 AM.
9/1/22, 06:52 AM
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I think it's Heading Toward a Pcm or Even Cluster Issue. With the Mods It's Likely the Pcm has Been Reprogrmmed. Do you Have a Tuner That Came With it or Do you Know Previous Owner you Could Get some More Info From. If the Pcm is Replaced your gonna Lose that Tune and With Different Cams I bet it will Have Driveablity Issues That is unless they can transfer existing info.
I don't Know if the alternator Issue could be a piece of Bad Programming in the Pcm or a Defect in the Pcm. The Ford Shop Manual I am Using is an Interactive Type so I can't Post the Process but I can tell you it is Point By Point by Point Depending on readings. So be advised Everything is intertwined an can be a Can o Worms.
Post your Vin or Email it to me so I can Check something that may or may not shed a little light.
Even with the Mods, the alternator Should Survive The Rpm's Especially For such a Short Period of Time . I would Think If they Didn't they would be a ton of Online Posts complaining about them. At Least that's my Assumption.
Could Also be as Simple as a Pinched Wire Somewhere or a Ground Wire Cut.
Here is Another Link to check These Guys Seen to Be Very Alternator Saavy Might Want to Check Them Out & Call with Questions.
https://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/
KC
I don't Know if the alternator Issue could be a piece of Bad Programming in the Pcm or a Defect in the Pcm. The Ford Shop Manual I am Using is an Interactive Type so I can't Post the Process but I can tell you it is Point By Point by Point Depending on readings. So be advised Everything is intertwined an can be a Can o Worms.
Post your Vin or Email it to me so I can Check something that may or may not shed a little light.
Even with the Mods, the alternator Should Survive The Rpm's Especially For such a Short Period of Time . I would Think If they Didn't they would be a ton of Online Posts complaining about them. At Least that's my Assumption.
Could Also be as Simple as a Pinched Wire Somewhere or a Ground Wire Cut.
Here is Another Link to check These Guys Seen to Be Very Alternator Saavy Might Want to Check Them Out & Call with Questions.
https://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 9/1/22 at 10:54 AM.
9/1/22, 10:54 AM
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For Some Reason your last two Posts are Not Coming Up Correctly so I have Cut & Pasted Them Here. Don't Use the Quote Feature at this Time.
I will try& Fix
KC
THE BULLITT
Yeah the current alternator survived, it’s not tearing like the others, just seems like the car doesn’t like it. When I ran my scan tool I found the ECU was reading those voltage levels. But like I said only happens when on the throttle or if the car sits around 3k ish which is mostly does even in 5th gear it’ll sit like 2500-2800 rpm which is sometimes enough to trip the issue.
so far this alternator has stood up to what it’s supposed to do. It hasn’t shattered like all the others. I’m at the shop now and they are checking the PCM and grounds to make sure they’re good. I checked the grounds the other day but I can easily be wrong about something. Hopefully they get this down.
KC
Sounds Promising.
I will try& Fix
KC
THE BULLITT
Yeah the current alternator survived, it’s not tearing like the others, just seems like the car doesn’t like it. When I ran my scan tool I found the ECU was reading those voltage levels. But like I said only happens when on the throttle or if the car sits around 3k ish which is mostly does even in 5th gear it’ll sit like 2500-2800 rpm which is sometimes enough to trip the issue.
so far this alternator has stood up to what it’s supposed to do. It hasn’t shattered like all the others. I’m at the shop now and they are checking the PCM and grounds to make sure they’re good. I checked the grounds the other day but I can easily be wrong about something. Hopefully they get this down.
KC
Sounds Promising.
Last edited by 05stangkc; 9/1/22 at 11:03 AM.
9/1/22, 01:00 PM
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So I called PA and we had a good 20 minute chat. We talked about the pulley ratios and we have an idea, it’s about the only idea we have so I’m willing to take it. The electric shop didn’t find anything wrong with the car and they checked everything they could as far as the charging system goes.
the guy on the phone asked about my pulleys I installed and got to thinking, well, he did the math and found out my alternator at idle spins at 1500RPMs which is 500 rpm BELOW where a 200 amp alternator is recommended to be at.
with that being said, we are thinking because it’s under the recommend area when I get on the gas it’s still falling behind a bit and the PCM is kinda kicking it to get up there which is why those spikes are happening. It’s able to get that electrical charge it needs to provide it just can’t keep it consistently because it’s physically restrained by the pulley system.
So I’m sending it back and having them install a 48mm pulley which will raise the idle rpm of the alternator to 1900 ish which is a lot closer to 2000 than 1500 is obviously. we aren’t entirely sure if this will fix the issue but it’s the best shot we got and honestly the one that makes most sense.
the guy on the phone asked about my pulleys I installed and got to thinking, well, he did the math and found out my alternator at idle spins at 1500RPMs which is 500 rpm BELOW where a 200 amp alternator is recommended to be at.
with that being said, we are thinking because it’s under the recommend area when I get on the gas it’s still falling behind a bit and the PCM is kinda kicking it to get up there which is why those spikes are happening. It’s able to get that electrical charge it needs to provide it just can’t keep it consistently because it’s physically restrained by the pulley system.
So I’m sending it back and having them install a 48mm pulley which will raise the idle rpm of the alternator to 1900 ish which is a lot closer to 2000 than 1500 is obviously. we aren’t entirely sure if this will fix the issue but it’s the best shot we got and honestly the one that makes most sense.
Last edited by TheBullitt; 9/1/22 at 01:02 PM.
9/1/22, 02:01 PM
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Hello,
Sounds Like You Got Some Issues Yet to Sort. I managed to get the Charging System Ford Shop Manual & Charging System Wiring Page Section on PDF Form for You if you Like Send me Your Email to clevparts@aol.com and I will Send Back. I would Also Like Your Vin to Check Somethings as Well. Up to You!
All the FORD Specs call for 135 Amp Alternators Btw I notice yours are 200. Perhaps Going Back to a Completely Stock Alternator & Pulley would Eliminate any doubt as to where issue is Coming From. If It Still Overcharges then it's Not the Alternator at Fault. If It Don't It's Fixed. Don't Suppose you got a Friend to Borrow off a Car From.
Lots of Choices Out There! Looked Up By Application. VIN Preferred.
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...v346-durm.html
KC
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...generator,2412
KC
Sounds Like You Got Some Issues Yet to Sort. I managed to get the Charging System Ford Shop Manual & Charging System Wiring Page Section on PDF Form for You if you Like Send me Your Email to clevparts@aol.com and I will Send Back. I would Also Like Your Vin to Check Somethings as Well. Up to You!
All the FORD Specs call for 135 Amp Alternators Btw I notice yours are 200. Perhaps Going Back to a Completely Stock Alternator & Pulley would Eliminate any doubt as to where issue is Coming From. If It Still Overcharges then it's Not the Alternator at Fault. If It Don't It's Fixed. Don't Suppose you got a Friend to Borrow off a Car From.
Lots of Choices Out There! Looked Up By Application. VIN Preferred.
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...v346-durm.html
KC
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...generator,2412
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 9/1/22 at 02:38 PM.
5/27/24, 11:18 PM
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Same issue here
I’m having the same issue as listed above. Am wondering if there were any finds as to why it is happening as I really need this issue to be resolved. I have basically done the same stuff as the main poster has done with the same results. I tried removing the fuse that runs the PCM and had no luck lowering the voltage of the battery so I have basically ruled out the PCM being the issue as if the PCM is disconnected I see no way for it to have any effect on how the car charges unless I’m wrong and that’s not how that works. The battery is reading 15.8 when the car is off and reading around the same at 15.6 and it is constant. It did drop to a voltage of 15.3 while idling for maybe 10 minutes but when the car was shut off the battery read up to 15.8V. Another thing to mention is I used a OBD2 scanner to read the battery charge and it was showing a charge or 11.9-12.2 when in idle and when RPM was boosted to 2000, the battery jumped to a high of 12.3v. My issue could be completely different but this is all the information I have for now. Any help would be appreciated as I will be taking in my car hopefully in the next couple days to get it checked
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