Manual Transmission Problems
#1
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Manual Transmission Problems
My car is 2008 GT with 5-speed manual transmission, only 16,900 miles on the clock. The car is bone stock and has the 3.31 gear ratio from factory (I missed ordering the 3.55s )
Recently, I had some problems with my transmission as follows:
1- Hard to select reverse gear (happens 90% of times)
2- Hard to select 2nd gear while power shifting and at high RPMs
3- Occasionally miss 3rd gear while power shifting
4- Almost all gears are not smooth and grinding (when normal driving)
5- The major problem appeared 3 days back when I was slowing down and downshifting from any gear to 2nd and once I release the clutch, a cracking/knocking sound comes from the transmission and the shifter is released from 2nd to neutral by itself (happens 90% of times)
For information, on the 15,000 miles service, I told them to check the gear **** as it was loose and easily rotating/slipping from my hand while shifting (it is the anodized gear **** equipped with the IUP package). They have only tightened it
The car now is at the Ford agent workshop and they said they will take off the transmission and fix it under warranty. However, the clutch (if it requires replacing) is not covered by warranty and it costs around $1,000!!!
I’ve gone through the previous threads and it seems many people have had similar problems with the TR-3650 manuals transmission and these were fixed under warranty (either complete overhaul or replacement with a new transmission).
Also, did Ford/Tremec produce stronger parts for the 2nd gear synchro or the same parts will be used again? I don’t want the transmission to fail again!!!
Now, while the workshop is doing the transmission rebuild, I'm thinking to get the MGW shifter and the 3.55 gear ratio
Recently, I had some problems with my transmission as follows:
1- Hard to select reverse gear (happens 90% of times)
2- Hard to select 2nd gear while power shifting and at high RPMs
3- Occasionally miss 3rd gear while power shifting
4- Almost all gears are not smooth and grinding (when normal driving)
5- The major problem appeared 3 days back when I was slowing down and downshifting from any gear to 2nd and once I release the clutch, a cracking/knocking sound comes from the transmission and the shifter is released from 2nd to neutral by itself (happens 90% of times)
For information, on the 15,000 miles service, I told them to check the gear **** as it was loose and easily rotating/slipping from my hand while shifting (it is the anodized gear **** equipped with the IUP package). They have only tightened it
The car now is at the Ford agent workshop and they said they will take off the transmission and fix it under warranty. However, the clutch (if it requires replacing) is not covered by warranty and it costs around $1,000!!!
I’ve gone through the previous threads and it seems many people have had similar problems with the TR-3650 manuals transmission and these were fixed under warranty (either complete overhaul or replacement with a new transmission).
Also, did Ford/Tremec produce stronger parts for the 2nd gear synchro or the same parts will be used again? I don’t want the transmission to fail again!!!
Now, while the workshop is doing the transmission rebuild, I'm thinking to get the MGW shifter and the 3.55 gear ratio
Last edited by Hani; 11/10/09 at 04:24 AM.
#2
Shelby GT350 Member
Definitely get the MGW shifter ... I was on the pre-order list for them so it's been in my car for years now and it's the best shifter I've ever had ...
#3
Team Mustang Source
Once you get the new tranny, NO POWERSHIFTING!!! It may have worked fine on older transmissions, like back in the 60's and 70's, but the new trannys are just not made to handle it.
Of course, by powershifting I mean shifting while never letting off the gas and only popping the clutch in for a half second while shifting. That is a sure fire way to ruin the syncros fast.
Of course, by powershifting I mean shifting while never letting off the gas and only popping the clutch in for a half second while shifting. That is a sure fire way to ruin the syncros fast.
#4
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Here's the TSB for those that had slight grinding when shifting. Don't know if yours was like that before it failed or not.
Copyright ã 2009 Ford Motor Company Online Publication Date May 1, 2009 PAGE 1
4.6L WITH TR3650 MANUAL TRANSMISSION—CLASH TSB 09-9-6
OR RASPY FEEL—SHIFTING INTO 2ND AND/OR 3RD
GEAR
OR RASPY FEEL—SHIFTING INTO 2ND AND/OR 3RD
GEAR
FORD:
2007-2008 Mustang
This article supersedes TSB
08-9-6 to update the 4. Install the transmission following WSM, Section
Part List as part packaging changed. 308-03B.
Part List as part packaging changed. 308-03B.
ISSUE
PART NUMBER PART NAME
Some 2007-2008 Mustang vehicles equipped with
3R3Z-7124-BA 1-2 Synchronizer
the 4.6L engine and TR3650 5 speed manual
1R3Z-7124-DA 3-4 Synchronizer
transmission may exhibit a clash noise and/or raspy
3R3Z-7107-AB 1-2 Blocking Ring
(rough) feel on gear engagements during 1-2 or 2-3
1R3Z-7107-BA 3, 4, 5 And Reverse Blocking Ring
upshifts. This condition may be more pronounced
when the transmission is colder than 40 degrees F
when the transmission is colder than 40 degrees F
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of
(4 degrees C). New Vehicle Limited
Warranty Coverage
(4 degrees C). New Vehicle Limited
Warranty Coverage
ACTION
IMPORTANT: Warranty
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the coverage limits/policies are
condition. not altered by a TSB.
Warranty coverage limits
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the coverage limits/policies are
condition. not altered by a TSB.
Warranty coverage limits
SERVICE PROCEDURE
are determined by the
A lack of shift effort may cause gear clash when identified causal part.
shifting a manual transmission. Increased shift effort OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
A lack of shift effort may cause gear clash when identified causal part.
shifting a manual transmission. Increased shift effort OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
in colder temperatures is a normal characteristic. 090906A 2007-2008 Mustang 4.6L 6.6 Hrs.
Engine TR3650
1. Inspect clutch pedal for full travel. Verify that Transmission: Replace The
the floor mat is properly secured to the carpet 1-2 And 3-4 Synchronizers,
hook. Includes Time To Remove
And Install Transmission
a. Clutch pedal does not have full travel - Do (Do Not Use With 7003A,
not continue with this procedure if the floor 7003A2, 7003AZJ, 4602A,
mat is not properly secured, positioned, or 5212B, 7564B)
other obstructions are present.
Engine TR3650
1. Inspect clutch pedal for full travel. Verify that Transmission: Replace The
the floor mat is properly secured to the carpet 1-2 And 3-4 Synchronizers,
hook. Includes Time To Remove
And Install Transmission
a. Clutch pedal does not have full travel - Do (Do Not Use With 7003A,
not continue with this procedure if the floor 7003A2, 7003AZJ, 4602A,
mat is not properly secured, positioned, or 5212B, 7564B)
other obstructions are present.
DEALER CODING
b. Clutch pedal does have full travel - If no CONDITION
conditions are present proceed to Step 2. BASIC PART NO. CODE
7124 42
2. Remove the transmission following Workshop
Manual (WSM), Section 308-03B.
3. Replace with new the 1-2 sychronizer, 3-4
sycronizer assemblies and blocking rings
following WSM, Section 308-03B.
conditions are present proceed to Step 2. BASIC PART NO. CODE
7124 42
2. Remove the transmission following Workshop
Manual (WSM), Section 308-03B.
3. Replace with new the 1-2 sychronizer, 3-4
sycronizer assemblies and blocking rings
following WSM, Section 308-03B.
NOTE:
The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do
the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper
vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by “do-it-yourselfers”. Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a
Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation
determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article.The information in this Technical Service Bulletin
(TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates.The most recent information is
available through Ford Motor Company’s on-line technical resources.
the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper
vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by “do-it-yourselfers”. Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a
Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation
determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article.The information in this Technical Service Bulletin
(TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates.The most recent information is
available through Ford Motor Company’s on-line technical resources.
Copyright ã 2009 Ford Motor Company Online Publication Date May 1, 2009 PAGE 1
#6
Legacy TMS Member
Ok, if this is a TSB, but the warranty's done, I gotta pay for that outta my own pocket... dangit.
I was gonna post about this issue, 'cause I noticed it was a little weird in 2nd and 3rd, but now that I see it here... sigh...
How hard is it to do this work? Is it a full tranny rebuild?
I was gonna post about this issue, 'cause I noticed it was a little weird in 2nd and 3rd, but now that I see it here... sigh...
How hard is it to do this work? Is it a full tranny rebuild?
#7
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Thanks for the replies.
The TSB that Charlie posted describes the problems exactly!!!
Anyway, I'm going today to the dealer workshop to check what happened with them and what part they will replce.
The only thing annoying me is the clutch as it will be worthy to change it as the transmission is getting re-built but it's not covered under warranty and it costs around $1,000 for a stock one!!!
The TSB that Charlie posted describes the problems exactly!!!
Anyway, I'm going today to the dealer workshop to check what happened with them and what part they will replce.
The only thing annoying me is the clutch as it will be worthy to change it as the transmission is getting re-built but it's not covered under warranty and it costs around $1,000 for a stock one!!!
#10
legacy Tms Member
my 2nd synchro didnt like powershifting either...got to where it would NOT hit second at over 4k, often locked in normal driving...put up with it nearly a year, and on advice changed to royal purple synchromax oil- immediately 3rd 'falls' into place now and second was as good as it ever was after driving for a day. I'm sold on this stuff.
if youre paying out of pocket: newtakeoff has zero mile trannys for 700 bucks...might still need a clutch, probably dont include slave or shifter, but still- thats cheap IMO.
Tim
if youre paying out of pocket: newtakeoff has zero mile trannys for 700 bucks...might still need a clutch, probably dont include slave or shifter, but still- thats cheap IMO.
Tim
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Ok, I got the car back today. They replaced the synchros and a transmission shaft. I checked the part numbers of the replaced parts and it matches some od the the above TSB that Charlie posted. They re-used my old flywhee, clutch, pressure plate and release bearing as they were in good shape as they said.
I didn't push the car of course but the shifts seem smoother now. However, there are couple of issues:
1- while launching the car and revving it, a strange boomy sound coming from the transmission bay and the car's sound at idle is not like before.
2- when I start the car after a small stop and start moving, a knocking sound is coming from the rear differntial or driveshaft (as if the driveshaft is not fixed back in correct shape). The sound disappears and rarly comes back at lower speeds.
I'm going again to the Ford workshop and have them test the car again!!!
My question, does the rebuilt transmission need a brak-in period to let things bed/settle in again? and for how far/long?
I've seen this one before Tim, thanks. Is this an original Tremec transmission or an aftermarket one?
I didn't push the car of course but the shifts seem smoother now. However, there are couple of issues:
1- while launching the car and revving it, a strange boomy sound coming from the transmission bay and the car's sound at idle is not like before.
2- when I start the car after a small stop and start moving, a knocking sound is coming from the rear differntial or driveshaft (as if the driveshaft is not fixed back in correct shape). The sound disappears and rarly comes back at lower speeds.
I'm going again to the Ford workshop and have them test the car again!!!
My question, does the rebuilt transmission need a brak-in period to let things bed/settle in again? and for how far/long?
I've seen this one before Tim, thanks. Is this an original Tremec transmission or an aftermarket one?
Last edited by Hani; 11/16/09 at 12:49 PM.
#12
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I have the grind issue on the 2-3 shift when cold. Once it warms up, it's fine, but now there's a new sound when "speed-shifting", like a slight grind. If I baby it, it's fine. But I didn't buy a Mustang to baby it!
I want to take it back to the dealer but I'm concerned they might give me grief over my mods and blame it on that.
I want to take it back to the dealer but I'm concerned they might give me grief over my mods and blame it on that.
#14
Legacy TMS Member
Ooh, tell me more about that, somebody. Is that the 'transferrable' one for a 2006 Mustang GT? And how do I do that?
On another note...
I took this advice, found some locally, and had it swapped into my transmission. I didn't really think it would do anything, but was hoping nonetheless. Figured it's worth a shot.
No kidding, the stuff really does work. Immediately second and third were easier to get into... and seems to be getting better as time goes on. Today, coming home, it was really really nice. So, give it a try, it's expensive stuff, to be sure, but if it does the trick, worth it.
Heck, it's probably worth it, if you swap a tranny, to use that right off.
On another note...
my 2nd synchro didnt like powershifting either...got to where it would NOT hit second at over 4k, often locked in normal driving...put up with it nearly a year, and on advice changed to royal purple synchromax oil- immediately 3rd 'falls' into place now and second was as good as it ever was after driving for a day. I'm sold on this stuff.
No kidding, the stuff really does work. Immediately second and third were easier to get into... and seems to be getting better as time goes on. Today, coming home, it was really really nice. So, give it a try, it's expensive stuff, to be sure, but if it does the trick, worth it.
Heck, it's probably worth it, if you swap a tranny, to use that right off.
#15
Shelby GT350 Member
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I didn't push the car of course but the shifts seem smoother now. However, there are couple of issues:
1- while launching the car and revving it, a strange boomy sound coming from the transmission bay and the car's sound at idle is not like before.
2- when I start the car after a small stop and start moving, a knocking sound is coming from the rear differntial or driveshaft (as if the driveshaft is not fixed back in correct shape). The sound disappears and rarly comes back at lower speeds.
1- while launching the car and revving it, a strange boomy sound coming from the transmission bay and the car's sound at idle is not like before.
2- when I start the car after a small stop and start moving, a knocking sound is coming from the rear differntial or driveshaft (as if the driveshaft is not fixed back in correct shape). The sound disappears and rarly comes back at lower speeds.
So now, the car works fine again
#18
legacy Tms Member
Ooh, tell me more about that, somebody. Is that the 'transferrable' one for a 2006 Mustang GT? And how do I do that?
On another note...
I took this advice, found some locally, and had it swapped into my transmission. I didn't really think it would do anything, but was hoping nonetheless. Figured it's worth a shot.
No kidding, the stuff really does work. Immediately second and third were easier to get into... and seems to be getting better as time goes on. Today, coming home, it was really really nice. So, give it a try, it's expensive stuff, to be sure, but if it does the trick, worth it.
Heck, it's probably worth it, if you swap a tranny, to use that right off.
On another note...
I took this advice, found some locally, and had it swapped into my transmission. I didn't really think it would do anything, but was hoping nonetheless. Figured it's worth a shot.
No kidding, the stuff really does work. Immediately second and third were easier to get into... and seems to be getting better as time goes on. Today, coming home, it was really really nice. So, give it a try, it's expensive stuff, to be sure, but if it does the trick, worth it.
Heck, it's probably worth it, if you swap a tranny, to use that right off.
Side note- the 09 has been here a full year already, now its got 3.8 miles on it(just from moving it around). the shifter in the 09 feels a lot less rubbery than the 06- guess ford musta revised it a bit.
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glad to hear it worked for you too...I plan on putting it in the 09 once its driven say 500 miles or so - worry too slick a oil might not let a new tranny 'wear in' as it should, but definitely I'll do it before ever abusing the 09
Side note- the 09 has been here a full year already, now its got 3.8 miles on it(just from moving it around). the shifter in the 09 feels a lot less rubbery than the 06- guess ford musta revised it a bit.
Side note- the 09 has been here a full year already, now its got 3.8 miles on it(just from moving it around). the shifter in the 09 feels a lot less rubbery than the 06- guess ford musta revised it a bit.
BTW, my '05 has the 5 year powertrain warranty...maybe it's a Canadian thing?
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