Well, I finally had a chance to look at the car. I could not get the battery to hold a charge at all. Called the toll free number and the mustang left on the hook to the dealer. Ill let you know what they say.

 

I just had the same problem. Last Friday I was playing a cd and when done turned the car off, key out. Went to leave on Sunday morning and it was dead! I put a trickle charger on it, full charge, started fine. A couple days later, after parking all day at work, it wasnt dead but it wasnt healthy. Then yesterday after work, DEAD. I got a jump and went to Ford. They replaced the battery, free, under warranty.

I remember a long time ago, there was instructions on how to read the serial number of the radio, by pressing two buttons simultaneously. Which 2 buttons was it?

What is the "latest" Shaker 500 serial number? I had my Shaker replaced a long time ago (in summer 05), but apparently there is still a problem. If there is a newer one than mine, I will have them replace it again.

 

"Run the self test when the shaker is on FM press the 3 & 6 buttons when the series runs the serial # that shows when the test passes will end in either A or B."

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...89&postcount=8

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...=shaker+serial

 

Speaker Walk-Around Test
NOTE: To enter the speaker walk-around test or audio unit self-diagnostic mode, the audio unit must be on and in radio tuner mode (AM/FM).

1. To enter the speaker walk-around test, simultaneously press and hold the audio unit preset buttons 3 and 6.

1. The speaker walk-around test stops at each speaker and applies sound to each speaker for about 1-2 seconds. Each speaker is tested and displayed on the audio unit in the following sequence: RF, LF, LR, RR, and SUBWOOFER.

1. To exit the speaker walk-around test, turn the key to OFF, turn the audio unit off, or press preset button 1 for diagnostics (DIA).

Audio Unit Self-Diagnostic Mode
NOTE: To enter the audio unit self-diagnostic mode, the audio unit must be on and in radio tuner mode (AM/FM).

1. To enter the following tests, press the desired preset button while in the speaker walk-around test.

1. To exit the audio unit self-diagnostic mode, turn the key to OFF or turn the audio unit off.

1. If the concern remains and the fault is not detected, GO to Symptom Chart .

1. The self-diagnostic mode has the following functions available:
   • Preset button 1 = On-Demand Self-Test. This button runs the on-demand self-test.
     • Pressing the MENU DOWN button allows scrolling of any DTCs found during the test while in this menu.
   • Preset button 2 = Display Continuous DTCs. This button enables viewing of any continuous DTCs that have been logged.
     • Pressing the MENU UP button allows scrolling of any DTCs while in this menu.
     • While continuous DTCs are being displayed, pressing the EJECT button will clear all present DTCs. The key must be cycled OFF, then ON, to permanently clear DTCs.
   • Preset button 3 = Signal Strength Test. This button displays the signal strength.
   • Preset button 4 = Software Version Display. This button displays the audio unit software version.
     • Pressing the MENU UP button allows scrolling of all audio subsystem software versions while in this menu.
   • Preset button 5 = Display Test. This test illuminates all the display segments for 5 seconds, then either turns all segments off or indicates DISPLAY TEST on the screen.
   • Preset button 6 = Configuration Status. This button enables audio unit configuration status.
     • Pressing the MENU UP button displays the ACM part number while in this menu.

1. To exit the self-diagnostic mode, turn the key to OFF or turn the audio unit off.

1. If the concern remains and the fault is not detected, GO to Symptom Chart .

 

Here's a question for you guys....
You know that green eye on the top of the battery, how trustworthy is that?

My battery was completly dead today. I boosted it, and took it to the dealer. They tested it, and it tested ok. They put it on the charger for 1/2 hour.

I then drove the car home, and put it on my charger for another hour until it said it was charged. I then drove the car for another hour.

Everything seems ok, however, the eye still shows red (not green.) Does it take some time to change back, or is my battery wrecked (regardless of the dealers passing test on it.)

 

The "eye" is basically a ball that floats up. A green ball means the specific gravity of the electrolyte solution is within normal limits and is fully charged. A red ball means something is wrong:

http://www.itwdelpro.com/battery.html


It should return to normal unless something is wrong. Take a voltage reading (not when it is being charged) 12 hours after it was last charged. If it holds at around 12.3-12.6V, it should be OK. My factory battery measured 12.85V when it was 40F+ and it now reads 12.15V at 0F-10F.

 

The eye is a scam selling point. Basically meaninless. Also its only on one cell of the battery.

 

Nonetheless, it should not turn "red". Did your dealer see the red eye and still OK the battery? Are you experiencing any problems with the battery?

 

I don't think the dealer noticed the red eye. I drove it for another hour or so yesterday, then pulled the battery right out. The eye is still red.
Its sitting in my basement right now, so temp won't play a factor.

I thought maybe just the ball was stuck, so I "swished" it around a bit, and the green ball did come up, but slowly sank away, being replaced by the red one again, so that is not the problem.

I'm going to check the voltage when I get back from work today, but regardless, if the eye is still red, I'm going to take it to a different dealer to check out.

Do you think its worth putting on the charger at home (I have a 2/12 amp automatic charger) tonite? It's been cold as hell here lately (-20C or colder). Maybe it just won't take a full charge when its that cold. Now that it is warmed up, do you think that might work?

 

The ***** float up/sink based on the specific gravity of the solution in that particular cell.

 

Well, the voltage checks out, and after sitting in my basement for 2 days, the green eye is back.

I guess driving it once a week isn't enough to keep it charged, so I am going to have to pull the terminal off of it while I am not driving it.

 

There's aTSB concerning the reading of that charge indicator check TSB 06-4-2

And also TSB 05-09-18 regarding battery discharge

 

It explains why the eye stayed red for a couple of days.
Great info. Thanks.

 

I had the same thing happen a couple weeks ago. No alarm, so that wasn't the cause.
Parked the car on Fri and when I went to grab something from the car on Sunday afternoon I noticed the dome lights didn't come on; just glad it wasn't Monday before work. Haven't had any problems with the battery since but after reading about a possible cd-changer problem I'll be sure to change it to am/fm when I'm leaving it for a while.

Like an earlier post (page 1 or 2), I also had a problem with the one-touch up on the driver's window after the battery was charged.

 

ok, so...........is there a final verdict on what causes the battery to go dead? every time mine sits for a week or two the battery is 100% dead. I have tried turning the unit to radio and then turning it off at the switch before i shut off the car. that "seems" to help a little but even after doing that it still does go dead. just MAYBE not as fast (not sure) I do have the passive security system. has there been any for sure remedy yet?

 

Doesn't seem like there's a fix yet.

<- Another dead battery person...from just 3 days of sitting!

 

Mine sits all week in the garage because of the traffic I encounter driving to work every day. I haven't had a problem yet and it's been two years so far - only 12k+ on the odometer.

 

Every Mustang I've owned has been a battery eater. The '86 GT did it, the '89 GT was particularly bad about it, and 2 days after we bought the new '07 GT, the battery was dead. Now, the dealership replaced the battery pronto, but it seems to me that the newer Mustangs just like to wear batteries out prematurely.

 

2+ years and 52K miles...no problems with the battery.

 

I asked the dealer about the dead battery issue yesterday when I had the car in for the brake fluid damage issue. I was told that all of these new Fords - not just Mustangs - do the same thing. If they are not driven for at least 1 hour a week, the battery drains down. They claim that the problem is the car has to retain a certain amount of memory to operate and that drains down the battery. They say it doesn't have anything to do with the stereo or alarm systems - it is what memory the car has to have to operate.