I need some help with my 08 stang I got it a couple days ago knowing it had a charging issue I've replaced the alternator, serpentine belt and the stereo because I saw a forum of the shaker 500 staying on after everything is off. I parked the car for 2 days went to start it and my battery is dead. I have 330,000 km on the dash and a check engine, battery and abs light on. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

This Has Been a Popular Topic For Years!

Here are Links To 5 of The More Recent Threads.

And Here is One With The Dash Lights You are Describing!

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...tem-v6-544957/

Welcome!



https://themustangsource.com/forums/...harging+system

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...harging+system

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...harging+system

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...harging+system

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...harging+system

 

how old is the battery itself? it could be a simple as -- it needs a new battery .... if the battery had been run down a lot due to charging problem or a drain, that can kill the battery

 

With a Fresh Hot Battery, a Trip To The Local Parts House Which Has a Code Reader That Reads All Codes Including Body Codes Could Help Reveal a Potential Sore Spot! I Would Surmise You Have Some Codes! The Simple P-Code Readers are Great For Drivability But Lack The Diagnostics For All Codes! So Make Sure it Can Pull For Example B-Codes!

See Post 3

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...e-info-550470/

Here is a Thread on Parasitic Loss as Well!

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...ompany-549893/

Kc

 

The battery is only a year old but it has been killed a few times so il look into buying a new one but if that doesn't fix the issue then I'm assuming something else is drawing power

 

I have a reader I got 2 codes P0442 and P01555 i looked into it and seems like some odd things like a not fully closed gas cap or something but I don't think that is my issue

 

Does Your Reader Detect Other Codes Besides P-Codes???? You Need To Be Able To Pull Body Codes as I Had Said P-Codes are Just Drivability. It's Worth The Effort To See if Anything Else Has a Fault. The Cheaper Readers Usually Only Pull P-Codes.

Oh And I Did Some Battery & Charging System Related Searches in the 05-09 Section and Moved a Bunch into The 05-09 REPAIR Section. It Had Quite a Bit of Scattering Which Happens on a 20 Year Old Site. Anyway Should Be Easier To Search For The Threads Now!

BTMO!

KC
ADMIN

 

I Agree Would Not Be Related To Charging Issue.

For an FYI Here is The p0442 Code as Per Ford! For Down The Road! Not Seeing a p01555 in My Source!

Description: The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors the complete EVAP control system for the presence of a small fuel vapor leak. System failure occurs when a
fuel vapor leak from an opening as small as 1.016 mm (0.040 in) is detected by the EVAP running loss monitor test.
Possible
Causes: After market EVAP hardware (such as the fuel filler cap) non-conforming to required specifications
Small holes or cuts in the fuel vapor hoses/tubes
Canister vent solenoid stays partially open on closed command
Damaged, missing or loosely installed fuel filler cap
Loose fuel vapor hose/tube connections to the EVAP system components
EVAP system component seals leaking (EVAP canister purge valve, fuel tank pressure sensor, canister vent solenoid, fuel vapor control valve tube
assembly or fuel vapor vent valve assembly)
Diagnostic
Aids:
Check for a missing fuel filler cap or the integrity of the cap.
Check for loose or damaged vapor hoses. Visually inspect the EVAP canister inlet port, CV solenoid filter, and canister vent hose assembly for contamination
or debr

 

Thank you il look into all of that and il get a B reader so I can get other codes

 

Cool Deal!

Might Want to Go Ahead and Replace That Cap & See if The 442 Goes Away. Also In the Meantime Make Sure & Turn Radio Off {at Radio} When Parking. That Will Sometimes Cause a Drain. Worth a Shot & Don't Cost Anything!

KC

 

Will do, the help is much appreciated
Thank you

 

You Are Welcome!

KC

 

Update I bought a code reader that does D codes and P codes. I will respond with the codes when I get back from running errands.

 

Another update I checked my codes and I only have 1 code, I checked D and P codes and only have a P01555

 

How Far Have You Driven It Since Last Dead Battery Incident??? If Battery Was Really Dead it May Clear Codes. Now Something That is Really Wrong May Pop a Code Right Back Up Upon Starting While an Underlying Issues May Require Some Drive Time To Trip Certain Codes. You May or May Not Get Any To Pop Up But it is Always First Part of Diag To See What The Cars Codes if Any Tell You.

Your Car Going Dead in Two Days is Pretty Extreme. While Many Have Had Similar Issues. I Have a Low Miles Gt-500 & My Car Likes To Get Started at Least Once a Month or Battery Will Be Dead Without Fail.

I Don't Know If Your Familiar With The Water Intrusion Problem on The S-197's But The SJB or Smart Junction Box Has a Lot of Interface With Various Systems on The Car and on a Car You Just Purchased It Would Not be a Bad Idea To Check For Issue. It May or May Not Be Related To Your Current Issue But Can Cause a Host of Electrical Issues Down The Road.

I Will Provide a Link For You To Check Out.

Although this is a Later Model I Like The Example Pictures of The Connections.
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...on-sjb-550481/

Ford TSb on Water Intrusion
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...26-7-a-550617/

Here is a FORD Parasitic Loss Flow Chart You May Find Useful
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...ompany-549893/

Kc

 

I drove it roughly 200 kms since the battery was last dead, parked it, replaced my stereo and did some brake work. She'd fire up the next day with 12.6v on my multimeter then the next day still 12.6 so I figured I fixed the issue but 2 days later maybe 3 I tried starting her up and no power. About the checking codes thing you said I checked the codes when the battery was full charge and again today at full charge but the P code for the gas cap, I just took the cap off and put it back on and the code was gone so I'm not sure what's up with the P1555 code. Il check out some more stuff when I get time I'm seriously thinking of just taking her for a diagnosis at my local Ford dealership or a specialized electrical place, having the chance of my battery dead in the morning is a pain in the rear.

 

No Doubt, A Insecure Feeling on Whether or Not Your Car Will Start is No Good! I Would Say 200Km is Plenty to Throw Another Code.

The 1555 Code is Kind of Odd. I Can't Find it in My FORD Dtc Listings Yet it Comes up on The Internet and Seems To Be a Different Issue For Different Makes. I Did See on One Search That it Could Indicate Internal PCM Short or Issue. Alternator is PCM Controlled on S-197 But Like I Said it Was Just One Off Comment I Found. Any Non Stock Additions To Cars Electrical System Should Definetely Be Suspect Such as Alarms, Etc.

Used Modules or Wiring Harnesses Especially if Off another Year If Replaced Can Be Problematic as Ford Changed Configuration and Some Wiring Pin Location Year To Year Which Can Cause Odd Situations. Had a Member awhile Back Who Had Replaced Just One Underhood Harness and it was a Year off and He Had To Repin a Bunch of Locations. As Cars get Older and used Parts Come into Play Odd Problems Pop Up! Just FYI Food For Thought! The Wierd Thing Was With The Wrong Harness it Ran Just Threw Some Odd Codes!

You Said You Knew it Had a Charging System Issue When You Got it. Were You Able To get any History as To When Issues Started and Had it Started After Some Previous Repair an Accident Repair or Electrical Addtion To Car. Sometimes The Story Can Be The Tell on Where To Look!

KC

 

The charging issue as far as I know has been happening for a couple years the guy was to lazy to figure it out and would charge his battery at night to get to work and back and that's all I know

 

Gotcha, Well Best of Luck on Your Repair.

KC

 

Check your alternator. The g6 alts in our cars are utter garbage. It is recommended to get a 2010 Denso Alternator. If you have a V6 I have one for sale (not a sales pitch just letting you know).
I've had a dreaded battery drain for 2 years that I couldn't figure out until last spring.
Get a multimeter and connect it to the the battery and start pulling fuses after the car goes to sleep. The draw should be under 0.50 amps I believe. Check this video out. It's very helpful to finding what's drawing power. My issue was the EPAS I installed. I connected it to the wrong fuse.
In the mean time get a battery charger and use it until you figure out what's killing the battery.