I’ve got a 2007 4.0 Manual that’s been giving me hell lately. Currently a crank no start, no codes on obd. Originally it had a code for the cam sensor, that was replaced and the code went away. I will also note that the engine was just serviced with a full timing chain, guide, tensioner kit. It’s started since then so I know it’s in time and have had that verified by others than myself as well.
new parts
cam sensor
crank sensor
spark plugs
FPDM
FRPS
Starter
Battery

all of this was replaced since it hasn’t been before so I bought them all with the cam sensor since I just had the engine redone.
It ran and drove fine then just stopped. Will crank just fine however it won’t fire over. What could I be missing that anyone can think of?
Ive tested the 02s, cam, crank, fuel pressure, spark, the only thing that hasn’t been checked is the compression but I would think it has compression since it was just running?

 

Fuel and spark.... those are your main components to fire. You said you checked fuel pressure and spark? If it has fuel and spark it will fire so you have to find out if the injectors are firing because you can have fuel pressure but if the injectors don't fire, then it's not going to start. Go to basics...fuel and spark. If it just stopped running, then I would think the injectors are not bad but if they are not getting a signal to fire then obviously you would get fuel entered into the combustion chamber. Turn it over a few times and pull a spark plug, if you can smell fuel or they are wet then you are not getting spark. If they are dry then you are not getting fuel into the combustion chamber.

 

There isn’t a valve I can see on the rail. Other than one is there any way to check my fuel pressure?

 

You said you checked fuel pressure previously? How did you do that? If you have access to a scanner, you can see what the computer sees as far as fuel pressure. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on?

 

I used a hand held scanner and it showed 48psi and the fuel pump is turning on. I can hear it hum in the back seat

 

Does Your Scanner Have The Abilty To Pull{ B} Codes Not Just P Codes???




Maybe an Issue With Anti Theft System. Maybe Simple as a Tranceiver.



Although PDF Listed is For 2014 Pretty Much Same Process.

Here is a 2011 With a Similar Issue Which Was Water Related Intrusion!

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...on-sjb-550481/

Anyhoo Just Some Food For Thought!

KC

 

OK, then you have fuel getting to the injectors, now you need to know if the injectors are firing...As KC mentioned, if you have a problem with the anti theft system (PATS) then your injectors would be shut off so that is one possibility.

 

I tried to start it thismorning and it started for a few seconds then died. I found a corroded accessory delay fuse in the SJB. Also my fuel pump doesn’t seem to stay on long when ignition is turned on around 1-2 second at best. I am able to see p codes and b codes but there are none present currently.

 

If You Had One Bad Connection in SJB I Would Say There May Have Been Others and Some Water Intrusion at Some Point! I Would Check Connectors as Shown in The Other Thread and Clean With Electrical Contact Cleaner! I Don't Believe Fuel Pump Simply Stays on With Key on and Not Running!

Although a Bit Crude I Do Recall a Member Having Similar Issues Who Had To Tap on Sjb Once & Awhile When The Condition Arose & Tooled Down The Road Until it Happened Again. I'm Not Saying a Solution But a Test to See if You Get Fire After Tapping on Box To Narrow Down Issue To That Area. All it Takes is ONE Poor Connection To Muck Up The Works!

BTMO!

I Thought I Had Posted This Link in Previous Post in Regards To SJB Water Intrusion!

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...on-sjb-550481/

KC

POST EDIT LINK!

 

I Do Know The Crank Pulley Can Be An Issue Coming Apart & Cause No Start Issues as Well!

Although You Would Think Would Be Trowing Codes!

Worth a Close Look For Anything Out Of Place / Position!

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...manual-546537/

KC

 

UPDATE: So I took the SJB out and took the casing apart. There were several pin sets that were corroded. I ran to the good ol Orilley n grabbed some contact cleaner, brass brush, and soft brush. Got them all cleaned off as well as replaced all fuses in the panel. Once I get the plug connectors cleaned and reinstalled I will give her a crank and get back with the results. Thank you for all the information and help!! Fingers crossed this does the trick. I’ve been walking to work for 2 months now lmao. Im ready to have her back

 

Update: got all the connectors and pin sets cleaned up with brushes and the connector cleaner. It started to fire off but no such luck. Gauge cluster now stays on with key off and out of ignition. I am going to let it set with the battery disconnected to see if maybe some of the battery cleaner was not fully dried (though I didn’t see any residual)

 

Check Again For Codes After Reset.

Some Cleaner is Likely Still in Female Side on a Connector. It Dries Pretty Quick Though!

Worst Case Let Set Overnight Without Battery Disconnected & Surely All Will Be Dry!

Then Try Try Again!

Kc

 

Here’s a video of it Cranking. It sounds like no spark almost. It tries very so often to fire. What are your thoughts.

 

@svopaul

I'm Getting a Second Opinion But it Sounds To Me Like it's Cranking Too Fast as in Low Compression. It's Possible The Cylinders Are Fuel Washed Down But Again I Defer To Paul! He Has Been Paged. I Would Let Everything Dry Out Overnight Before Anymore Cranking. I Would Disconnect Battery Until Then.

BTMO

KC

 

Sounds good to me. I can run a compression test on it. The rpm signal on the pcm is around 190rpm which from what ford told me was in range. Between 150-300 rpm with most common cranking rpm being between 200-250rpm. Is there something I’m missing or not informed about?

 

I'm Just Going By Sound. Most of My Hands On Was With Pushrod V'8's Back in The Day. That is Why I Want To Hear What Paul Thinks. Maybe Normal Sound For 4.0L

KC

 

I Decided To Offer a Phone Call & Had a Fairly Lengthy Conversation About Issues & After Joe Did Some Testing it Has Some Low Compression. He Will Dig Deeper To Find The Cause!

I Look Forward To Finding Out The Exact Culprit & Am Confident He Will Pursue it To a Successful Resolution!

Best Of Luck!

KC

 

So after our phone call I took the valve covers back off and rotated the engine by hand. It seems the camshafts moved so I am going to re align them, torque the bolts back down to verify they’re correct. The camshaft bolts aren’t keyed. They are pressure sensitive which leads me to believe the bolts may have either stretched or don’t take when I had torqued them prior. I will come back with an update on the low compression soon. Thank you for all the help and support.

JOE

 

These Maybe Helpful!

KC