So I lost another mustang key and down to just one. I programmed a few more and while I was at it, I wanted to program keyless entry as well. I put the car into program mode by putting the key into the ignition and turning it from off to on 8 times, leaving it in the on position on the last turn and the doors cycled. I have to fob's that I want programmed that are both aftermarket. One is the standard one and the either is the switch key style and lights up when you press any of the keys. Neither of them would program to my car. I know it isn't faulty batteries as I can see the switch key style one light up once pressed. I did some research and I found that some people solved this problem by pulling the radio fuse in the BEC fuse box underneath the hood due to interference. I tried that and neither of my keys would program. I truly believe it has something to do with my car's receiver because I've read reviews about both of these fob's and have seen people program the exact same ones with the exact same year/make/model as my mustang. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd greatly appreciate it as I'm not too automotive savvy yet.

 

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...rocess-542327/
As an Fyi Lots of Good Info & Links To Other Good Info.

Aftermarket Fobs Are Not Very Reliable in My Experience.

KC

https://aftermarket.strattec.com/pro...=285&year=2007
FOB
See PDF'S For Programming!

You Need Two Already Programmed Keys Per PDF Sheet to Be Able To Add Third. If You Were Able to Program a Key I would Think a Second Key is In the Car Somewhere. Unless because You Used the Lost Key Recently Enough it's in Memory Maybe you Skated By. Did Car Start with New Keys?? If So You Got Lucky.

KC

 

So I programmed all keys without a problem. I was trying to program the clicker (locker and unlock) but neither of the two I have programmed to the car. They both have batteries that work but they are aftermarket. I have seen countless reviews of both of them being programmed to my vehicle which leads me to believe that something is wrong with my car's receiver. I have read of other people having the same problem. I correctly entered programming mode but the clickers wouldn't be accepted by the car.

I can't find anymore solutions online with what could be wrong. I called around to a few places that specialize in ford and I was told by one that I would have to bring it in so they could bypass into the body control module. I wasn't really looking into spending a few hundred dollars so that would be the last case.

 

@Notty

Sounds Like the Cheapest Way to Be Sure is Use 1 Factory or Strattec Clicker and See If It Works. Do You Have any other Fords Which Use Same Transmitter You Could Test With? The Fob Page Shows Other Cars which Use Same Unit. Even Consider a Friend to Borrow One & Test.

In my 30+ Years at Ford 9 times out of 10 It Was a Junk Transmitter Causing Issue. Did Last Transmitter Function Right Before Losing Key?? If So Even More Doubt Problem is With Module. They Can Make Transmitters Look Just Like Factory but Not Always Perform Like Factory. You Could Be the 1 in 10 BTMO.

Surprised You Got Key to Program. That's a Fluke with only One Key. Sure you Don't Have Keys Lost in Car Somewhere??

Saw a You Tube Recently Where The Customers Complaint Was Push Button Start Was Always Active. Keys Were Under Passenger Seat!

Of Course We Always get the Weird Problems Here at TMS. But we Try to Make it Easier to Find a Solution & Fix

Here is a Used OEM FORD KEYFOB $14.00 What Do You Have To Lose! Worst Case You Got an Extra!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26526404084...Bk9SR5S5yv_-YA

Or Two For $20.00! And Guaranteed Tested First By Locksmith!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14290762965...75.c101224.m-1

Here is something you can Try. Try & Program Transmitters With only one in Proximity to Car. Put Other One as Far away as you can From Car while Attempting each One. Just a Thought!

KC

 

I don't think I do. If I do have a friend that'll let me test the fob on his car, is there a way to deactivate it from his car to make it be able to register to any car again?

Haha yes, I'm pretty sure I don't. I bought a key coder for a couple hundred bucks and used my master key to make two other RFID chipped keys I bought from amazon.

Ok, I will give that method a go. Let's just say if I can't get a OEM ford clicker to program with my car, what would be the next step?

 

Lets Think Positive and Get Those Clickers Going! Might Want to Try a Reset as Well by Disconnecting Battery for 20 mInutes and Give your Existing Transmitters A Try Again Solo as Described Earlier!

If you Send me Your Vin to my clevparts@aol.com I will Check for Any Specific TSB'S on Your Car. I will need a return Email as My Attachments Don't Like Going Through TMS Pm's and The Like.

KC

 

I already gave the battery disconnection a try and it did not work unfortunately. I also went to the ford dealership and bought their key fob to try and program it to my car in the parking lot and that did not work either. I sent over my VIN via email to you. Thanks for your help!

 

Man I'm Sorry to Hear That.

Not a Lot in the Shop Manual To Help. I will Post the Little Info I got in PDF Form. Have You Tested the Autolock Feature and See if it Is Working? May Try to Reprogram That Feature and Then Try Transmitters Again. Also Do You Have a Code Reader and Have you Checked for Any Codes? I'm Unsure if Generic Code Readers Pull Body Codes Though.

KC

This is What I Would Try. Disconnect Battery for a Couple of Hours. Try to Reprogram Autolock Feature. It Would Be a Good Sign if This Functions Correctly. Then Try The One New Ford Transmitter. Test Battery in New Transmitter Just to Be Sure as Well!

{I Just Realized the Stick Cars Don't Have Autolock Feature!}

Aye Carumba!

I'm Out of Idea's at the Present Other Than Taking to the Dealer. I will Stew on it awhile and Post if I come up with Something.

If it Turns Out to Be an Issue with the SJB they are Discontinued from Ford. That Means a Used One and it Will Have to Be Reprogrammed to Your Cars {As Built Specs} It is Possible a Reprograming of Your Existing Unit May Solve the Problem. Wish I was Still Working At the Dealer and Could Ask The Tech's the In's & Outs. It's Been awhile Since I got involved with the Sjb's.

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...tra2=&filter=()

7R3T14B476FG ID# 7R3Z15604F Part Number Old Number 7R3Z-15604-B
1 KIT - ALARM/KEYLESS LOCK SYSTEM Your Unit Will have a Similar ID# But Not Exact Number On It.

See Example on Ebay! FORD'S PART NUMBERING SYSTEM will Get You Dizzy! Tons on Ebay With Prices All Over the Place. JUST FYI.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17423083651...Bk9SR9S7l4qAYQ

This is ID# and Part Number For the Last Available SJB Above. Used Ones are Usually Listed on Ebay By ID# Vs Part Number. A Used Unit Unless it Was an Exact Equipped Duplicate of Your Car Will Have to Be Reprogrammed. This is Just FYI Info I'm Not Trying to Diagnose a Bad SJB But Want You to Know Your Options.

I Had Asked Before When Was The Last Time you Had a Working Transmitter and I don't Remember a Reply. If it Was Working with the Lost Keys recently it Just Seems Odd The Problem Popped Up At the Same Time Keys Were Lost! If So it has to Be Something We are Missing. If it Was a Problem Before the Lost Keys then That is a Different Story

KC

 

The last time I had a key cut and the FOB programmed, I had a locksmith do it. Might try that to see if they can get the FOB programmed, gotta be cheaper than taking it to a dealer.