Ralph... Put a edelbrock 600 w/elec choke on it and see what happens.

 

Keep, I thought of that. Got one I can borrow? I already laid out $320 for my new Holley.

Gonna wait until the plug wires and secondary setup is on. Then see what happens. Noticed my distributor shaft wiggles a little bit. I would not think that is anything to worry about, though. The timing is smooth.

I am really looking at the darn gas. An EFI machine should not feel differences as bad, or not at all since it is auto-correcting when it determines a lean condition.

 

Well, the new wires came in and the conversion kit. I cleaned the plugs and checked the compression. All within 10%. I threw the wires on, threw in the conversion kit and set the jets to 72 in the rear. Same stuff. Jets to 76. Same. Jet to 80. Same. Blew out the fuel lines. A little more fuel pressure, but same. Found that the brake booster was junk, replaced, still the same.

Have had two good mechanics come by today. After all morning going over everything, they do not know. The closest that comes to mind is that the heads are junk. *shrugs*

 

*growls* Still does not want to start when it is hot. I have to crank it for about ten seconds before it barely catches and will idle up. And, it is idling at 975. *shakes my head* I think that I have spent a heck of a lot of money to GAIN problems, not fix them. Seems like a thing with the new carb. Another thing with the new carb is that if I am kinda hard on it, it "dies" for a split second when I shift. It b lows b lue smoke when I rev it. Huh? It blows black smoke when it is pinging hard, then if the pinging stops, it feels like I have 25 more horsepower and there is no smoke.

I have been told by folks staying for the weekend here that the car really sounds excellent... like a beast. Well, yeah, when it is idle or revving in the driveway. Basically it is there, there is just something that I am missing. #5 spark plug is different than all the rest, also. When all of this started and I pulled all of the plugs, it was completely clogged with grey material. All the others were very white porcelain showing lean. So we have been trying to think of theories as to why that is and how that could be the pinging. I have no idea. Do I have a leak under the intake drawing in air?

But the new Alpine sounds sweet. Tried some expensive Polk Audio speakers. Um, found that my Audax pair for $14 sound MUCH better. Richer and more mellow in tone and not the screaming harmonics that hurt my ears. I've had them paired with some silks for a good amount of time and that really sounds good with a single 10" rounding out the low. Picked up another amp to drive the tweeters while the 4ch amp now drives the mids and the 10. After the Alpine I have an Alpine mulitplexer that sets everything up with a program on a laptop after doing measurements. So, even though the car does not want to run the best, at least the 4GB drive sounds decent now.

 

I guess you could just hang out with the other non-running ricers and show off your stereo?

What you need are some good GT40X heads.

 

*grins*
Naw, I only have one sub, the screws in my car are still tight and my muffler/tailpipe(s) are... well... of inadequate size. They won't let me hang out with them. *pouts*

Give ya $400 for 'em.

 

Maybe it is the distributor. A little wiggle X RPM = lots of little wiggles. The Zone has a reman for $49.99 + $30 core. kennyg

 

Yeah, I'm gonna get one. My special wiring means I have to cut and butt, though. Should have got one when I got a pickup.

This means everything will be new.

 

I know you know, but you should solder the splices for the most permanent and reliable connections. kennyg

 

If the new distributor doesn't fix it, I'm going to recommend a new subwoofer and some neon.

 

I think we need to install them weird lights and a chrome gas lid cover and a roof scoop, and 42 pounds of stickers. That should do it.

 

Sounds like a dodge I used to build bridges and the Gov't used all ddodge stuff they had tis white cast ballast risiter on the fire wall that when heated up gave pretty much same kinda systoms ? or to me seemed like fuel pump working intermitantly all the 1970's -80's crap did that.

 

I read an article in a trade magazine in the last year or two, that dealt with an intermittant ignition problem. The shop kept the customers car for several days and a couple of different mechanics took a look at it. They drove the car to lunch and errands trying to get the problem to show up. The owner of the shop called the cars owner and told him they had done all they could, but the couldn't find a problem. When the cars owner arrived, the shop owner suggested he give him a ride to see if the problem would occur with him driving. The owner, a young man, got in, adjusted the seat, the mirrors, and turned the stereo on. They headed out on a test drive, cranked up the music, and suddenly, boom boom boom (stereo bass), the ignition cut out. The problem does exist! Back to the shop to investigate. Problem solved: bass boom box spliced into 12V source with key on, also happened to be the direct feed to the ignition. LOL kennyg

 

Okay, so this weekend...

Reman dizzy, pull the intake and replace the gaskets, replace the bowls on the new carb with the old bowls to verify fuel level.

Something that I have not mentioned and it bugged me a while back. I hear a (whistle/moan) that I am sure is an air thing. I wish I could describe it. But when I am cruising, with just a very slight change of my throttle, it will change this air moan sound.

My thought is that there is an air leak. Has to be. #5 plug is clogged and all the others are lean (white porcelain) and I have jetted way high. Dizzy is "just because I have replaced everything else".

Intake cracked? But I think the idle would have changed when I sprayed carb cleaner around it, unless it is underneath in the galley.

Update later...

 

Ralph, you get my PM about the E-bok?

 

Oh, yeah, the carb? Yep, I did. I don't think it is the carb, though.

I pulled the intake and I am looking at oil in the intake passages of the head. They are brown and wet. Now, that does not seem right to me.

Are my guides junk, or did I install the wrong valve seals? I cannot see any cracks in the intake making me think I am sucking oil that way.

I use a quart of oil every 400 miles.

 

Ralph, is there a lot of baked / caked burnt oil on the bottom of the valves? Also can you force the valves side to side very far (I know the springs are installed). Curious. Also I am still wondering actual compression you have per cylinder.

 

Well, I haven't tried those things, Steve. It still surprises me that the intake passages of the heads are wet with oil. They are not supposed to be that way, correct?

Even if it is the seals, the guides *must* be letting the oil into the passage. I cannot see it being the intake because the intake ports are brown and dry.

*growls*
Dangit, I guess I need heads, and I do not have any with me.
What to do...

 

I only bring it up because of the possible low compression and the low miles. I dont know if my gauge was that far off or if you have real comp issues. I cant see the lower compression (Cranking pressure) being related to the bottom half of the engine with the miles as low as they are. Did you lay the intake back on the engine and see how it mates to the heads? Did the intake gasket seem to have a good "crush" pattern... equal gasket crush at the top rail vs the bottom? If it was drawing oil from there you should see the path fairly easy. Also just how much oil film is there in the heads? Does it seem to come from one direction or another? Also is the oil film even on all ports or just some ports or one side of the engine only?? Sorry for all the questions, trying to paint a clearer picture before you throw heads on it. If you can, send some pictures......

 

Send a note to my FIL, you know him from RCMC (billruffer AT knology.net) and get his opinion. He's an engine builder from way back and might have some ideas.