View Poll Results: What should the first mod be?
Voters: 20. You may not vote on this poll
Finally got me a GT500: Want your opinion on first mod
#1
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Finally got me a GT500: Want your opinion on first mod
Well, I've had an 05 GT, 06GT, and finally an 08 GT500. I have been considering my first mod and would like to know what you think. I have a set of FRPP mufflers that will be going on along with the first mod.
http://home.comcast.net/~mustangtony/IMG_0743b.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~mustangtony/IMG_0742b.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~mustangtony/DSCF1032.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~mustangtony/IMG_0743b.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~mustangtony/IMG_0742b.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~mustangtony/DSCF1032.JPG
Last edited by Gnirod1; 10/22/08 at 06:42 PM.
#2
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Drive it for a while, I'm guessing you will be looking for some enhanced traction...
Congratulation on your new GT500.
Maybe start here with Don's excellent information...
Congratulation on your new GT500.
Maybe start here with Don's excellent information...
#3
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Anything you do has to head toward your total goal. Look at your budget and figure pie-in-the-sky. If you plan on doing a 3.4L blower later, make sure any intake you get with a tune will be usable later. If you simply bolt on things you will undoubtedly throw out, it does you no good.
#4
Gee- I thought I made a contribution to the depreciation formula until you came along Having acquired a slightly used gt500 in the last two weeks I would recommend a CAI and tune. Reason is my car came with a 2.6 pulley and much information points to the fact that if you have an issue that requires the services at the dealership, it is possible they could deny engine or supercharger warranty w/ the 2.6 pulley installed.
Since my car has less then 700 miles I am contemplating removing the pulley.
Since my car has less then 700 miles I am contemplating removing the pulley.
#5
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A mans gotta know his limitations...
You have to decide if that additional horse power above the initial 500 is worth voiding your warranty.
After all a new GT500 engine complete can be had for a mere $16,000...
You have to decide if that additional horse power above the initial 500 is worth voiding your warranty.
After all a new GT500 engine complete can be had for a mere $16,000...
Gee- I thought I made a contribution to the depreciation formula until you came along Having acquired a slightly used gt500 in the last two weeks I would recommend a CAI and tune. Reason is my car came with a 2.6 pulley and much information points to the fact that if you have an issue that requires the services at the dealership, it is possible they could deny engine or supercharger warranty w/ the 2.6 pulley installed.
Since my car has less then 700 miles I am contemplating removing the pulley.
Since my car has less then 700 miles I am contemplating removing the pulley.
#6
GT Member
Thread Starter
Thank you all for the feedback . I am the type that goes through extensive research before making a move on much of anything. At this point (will probably change later....) I don't think I'm going to want to go with the 3.4 blower. By the time I do the pulley, CAI, gears, tune, and related suspension mods (to actually use the power) I think I'll be happy.
I've been looking at the JLT and the C&L intakes and have been leaning toward the C&L as the carbon fiber look really doesn't do it for me. I've used Breenspeed tunes for my 98 Lincoln MKVIII, 05 GT, and the 06 GT with much happiness. From their website, I see that they have a JLT package but I am fairly certain they can put together a C&L since they have them for the GTs.
But then again, I can honestly say that my 06 GT with the 3:55s felt snappier when romping the pedal while already rolling at 20 mph.
I think out of all of them, the CAI/Tune is the least time and labor intensive and an easy mod to reverse for warrantee work. At this time, I'm going with the intake/tune (but it'll probably change back and forth at least three times more. Why can't I just be happy???)
I've been looking at the JLT and the C&L intakes and have been leaning toward the C&L as the carbon fiber look really doesn't do it for me. I've used Breenspeed tunes for my 98 Lincoln MKVIII, 05 GT, and the 06 GT with much happiness. From their website, I see that they have a JLT package but I am fairly certain they can put together a C&L since they have them for the GTs.
But then again, I can honestly say that my 06 GT with the 3:55s felt snappier when romping the pedal while already rolling at 20 mph.
I think out of all of them, the CAI/Tune is the least time and labor intensive and an easy mod to reverse for warrantee work. At this time, I'm going with the intake/tune (but it'll probably change back and forth at least three times more. Why can't I just be happy???)
#7
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I think it depends on what your goal(s) is/are.
Sounds like you want to add additional performance. If that's the case, I agree with Black GT500...You will need some better traction.
If you are looking for overall looks/appearance, I would suggest the FRPP handling package, or something comparable. These cars (like the regular GT's) come way too high and need to have that fender gap reduced.
They are also pretty quiet.
I haven't done any mods to mine yet, but my priority list for next year is:
1. springs/shocks
2. exhaust
3. CAI & tune
I probably won't ever race my car, so it's fast enough for now. I just want it to look and sound better.
Sounds like you want to add additional performance. If that's the case, I agree with Black GT500...You will need some better traction.
If you are looking for overall looks/appearance, I would suggest the FRPP handling package, or something comparable. These cars (like the regular GT's) come way too high and need to have that fender gap reduced.
They are also pretty quiet.
I haven't done any mods to mine yet, but my priority list for next year is:
1. springs/shocks
2. exhaust
3. CAI & tune
I probably won't ever race my car, so it's fast enough for now. I just want it to look and sound better.
#8
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You need to think out of the box like I have. The first mod anyone should do on any car is to optimize the tune file with no physical hardware changes. In other words, learn to tune your own vehicle. By doing this, you will know that your "stock" car is running optimally BEFORE replacing components.
The benefit of learning (and doing) is priceless. Your own tune file will be optimized for YOUR car. It will also be a baseline file to build on. You'll be able to modify your file for each and every modification added in the future. You'll never have to rely on a "professional tuner" to come up with a tune file with every mod. How priceless is this? And in the long run, how much moola ($$$) will you save not purchasing tune files for every mod?
My process is not normally the general trend on newer cars with newer technology simply because we, as consumers, do not have the time nor resources to tinker and hack the manufacturer's tuning code. That's why we rely on "professional tuners". But as our cars age, you'll find that the general trend, as more and more tuning software becomes available to us, will be to tune ourselves. History has proven this trend over and over since cars became computer literate in the '80s.
My car is a perfect representation of what can happen if you tune yourself. I know a guy locally who owns an '07 GT500. He has a "Stage 2" kit from a company many agree is reputable (but one I will never do business with -- another story). This kit includes a pulley and obviously their proprietary tune. He's making 12-13 psig boost. My only mod is an oval K&N filter (stock inlet tube) and my tune file. I'm making 9-psig boost (stock). Yet we're neck and neck. We both run 12.40s.... Can someone please explain how this can be true? (I already know why.)
So do you dare ride on the cutting edge and learn something that most fear to even think about? I'm not the most intelligent person in the world but if I can learn to tune my own car, virtually anyone else can, as long as you're willing. Don't be intimidated people. Trust me, it's not that difficult....
The benefit of learning (and doing) is priceless. Your own tune file will be optimized for YOUR car. It will also be a baseline file to build on. You'll be able to modify your file for each and every modification added in the future. You'll never have to rely on a "professional tuner" to come up with a tune file with every mod. How priceless is this? And in the long run, how much moola ($$$) will you save not purchasing tune files for every mod?
My process is not normally the general trend on newer cars with newer technology simply because we, as consumers, do not have the time nor resources to tinker and hack the manufacturer's tuning code. That's why we rely on "professional tuners". But as our cars age, you'll find that the general trend, as more and more tuning software becomes available to us, will be to tune ourselves. History has proven this trend over and over since cars became computer literate in the '80s.
My car is a perfect representation of what can happen if you tune yourself. I know a guy locally who owns an '07 GT500. He has a "Stage 2" kit from a company many agree is reputable (but one I will never do business with -- another story). This kit includes a pulley and obviously their proprietary tune. He's making 12-13 psig boost. My only mod is an oval K&N filter (stock inlet tube) and my tune file. I'm making 9-psig boost (stock). Yet we're neck and neck. We both run 12.40s.... Can someone please explain how this can be true? (I already know why.)
So do you dare ride on the cutting edge and learn something that most fear to even think about? I'm not the most intelligent person in the world but if I can learn to tune my own car, virtually anyone else can, as long as you're willing. Don't be intimidated people. Trust me, it's not that difficult....
Last edited by Willie; 10/24/08 at 06:31 PM.
#9
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.... and..>>
If you know how to tune, take the car to the track, run / datalog, then evaluate. Make necessary adjustments and run again. If you improve, great! You may want to try changing a different parameter / scalar to better your improvement. If you go the wrong way, change it back and try something else.
Folks, why do you think tracks call these nights "test and tune"????? You can literally do this. If you can't tune, it's impossible to test and tune unless you're willing to fly your "tuner dude" to your hometown so he can do this for you!! I don't think this is gonna happen....
Willie
If you know how to tune, take the car to the track, run / datalog, then evaluate. Make necessary adjustments and run again. If you improve, great! You may want to try changing a different parameter / scalar to better your improvement. If you go the wrong way, change it back and try something else.
Folks, why do you think tracks call these nights "test and tune"????? You can literally do this. If you can't tune, it's impossible to test and tune unless you're willing to fly your "tuner dude" to your hometown so he can do this for you!! I don't think this is gonna happen....
Willie
Last edited by Willie; 10/24/08 at 06:34 PM.
#10
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OK You have built the suspense...
OK You have built the suspense, now on with the first lesson **** IT!
You need to think out of the box like I have. The first mod anyone should do on any car is to optimize the tune file with no physical hardware changes. In other words, learn to tune your own vehicle. By doing this, you will know that your "stock" car is running optimally BEFORE replacing components.
The benefit of learning (and doing) is priceless. Your own tune file will be optimized for YOUR car. It will also be a baseline file to build on. You'll be able to modify your file for each and every modification added in the future. You'll never had to rely on a "professional tuner" to come up with a tune file with every mod. How priceless is this? And in the long run, how much moola ($$$) will you save not purchasing tune files for every mod?
My process is not normally the general trend on newer cars with newer technology simply because we, as consumers, do not have the time nor resources to tinker and hack the manufacturer's tuning code. That's why we rely on "professional tuners". But as our cars age, you'll find that the general trend, as more and more tuning software becomes available to us, will be to tune ourselves. History has proven this trend over and over since cars became computer literate in the '80s.
My car is a perfect representation of what can happen if you tune yourself. I know a guy locally who owns an '07 GT500. He has a "Stage 2" kit from a company many agree is reputable (but one I will never do business with -- another story). This kit includes a pulley and obviously their proprietary tune. He's making 12-13 psig boost. My only mod is an oval K&N filter (stock inlet tube) and my tune file. I'm making 9-psig boost (stock). Yet we're neck and neck. We both run 12.40s.... Can someone please explain how this can be true? (I already know why.)
So do you dare ride on the cutting edge and learn something that most fear to even think about? I'm not the most intelligent person in the world but if I can learn to tune my own car, virtually anyone else can, as long as you're willing. Don't be intimidated people. Trust me, it's not that difficult....
The benefit of learning (and doing) is priceless. Your own tune file will be optimized for YOUR car. It will also be a baseline file to build on. You'll be able to modify your file for each and every modification added in the future. You'll never had to rely on a "professional tuner" to come up with a tune file with every mod. How priceless is this? And in the long run, how much moola ($$$) will you save not purchasing tune files for every mod?
My process is not normally the general trend on newer cars with newer technology simply because we, as consumers, do not have the time nor resources to tinker and hack the manufacturer's tuning code. That's why we rely on "professional tuners". But as our cars age, you'll find that the general trend, as more and more tuning software becomes available to us, will be to tune ourselves. History has proven this trend over and over since cars became computer literate in the '80s.
My car is a perfect representation of what can happen if you tune yourself. I know a guy locally who owns an '07 GT500. He has a "Stage 2" kit from a company many agree is reputable (but one I will never do business with -- another story). This kit includes a pulley and obviously their proprietary tune. He's making 12-13 psig boost. My only mod is an oval K&N filter (stock inlet tube) and my tune file. I'm making 9-psig boost (stock). Yet we're neck and neck. We both run 12.40s.... Can someone please explain how this can be true? (I already know why.)
So do you dare ride on the cutting edge and learn something that most fear to even think about? I'm not the most intelligent person in the world but if I can learn to tune my own car, virtually anyone else can, as long as you're willing. Don't be intimidated people. Trust me, it's not that difficult....
#11
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Well lookie there..... snagged me one already..!! Here are your first THREE lessons.
Lesson #1:
Install a WB gauge with an analog linear 5-volt output.
Find a sucker who'll build a wiring harness so you can connect the said WB output to a datalogger. (It's my understanding that SCT doesn't have this harness....).
Lesson #2
Make sure the sucker you find will incorporate into the harness the capability to datalog boost with the know-how to do so. Ooooo, you'll probably pay big bucks for this...
Lesson #3
Learn how to datalog. This might require a step-by-step live conversation with said sucker.... and if you're nice enough, he just "might" provide you with a good working configuration file.....
Now, the fun begins......
Willie
Lesson #1:
Install a WB gauge with an analog linear 5-volt output.
Find a sucker who'll build a wiring harness so you can connect the said WB output to a datalogger. (It's my understanding that SCT doesn't have this harness....).
Lesson #2
Make sure the sucker you find will incorporate into the harness the capability to datalog boost with the know-how to do so. Ooooo, you'll probably pay big bucks for this...
Lesson #3
Learn how to datalog. This might require a step-by-step live conversation with said sucker.... and if you're nice enough, he just "might" provide you with a good working configuration file.....
Now, the fun begins......
Willie
#12
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FYI:
The stock tune file is disappointing to say the least. It is more than ultra conservative. It is disgustingly lame. Those "40+ hp gains" you see with a CAI and tune..... The gain really isn't in the air filter itself. Ninety percent of the improvement is due to tune parameter changes. As for the stock inlet tube, don't be fooled. It is NOT a restriction at (or near stock horsepower levels). When the 2.9 Whipple is released, I will experiment myself as to what power level this part becomes a restriction.
Willie
The stock tune file is disappointing to say the least. It is more than ultra conservative. It is disgustingly lame. Those "40+ hp gains" you see with a CAI and tune..... The gain really isn't in the air filter itself. Ninety percent of the improvement is due to tune parameter changes. As for the stock inlet tube, don't be fooled. It is NOT a restriction at (or near stock horsepower levels). When the 2.9 Whipple is released, I will experiment myself as to what power level this part becomes a restriction.
Willie
Last edited by Willie; 10/24/08 at 06:57 PM.
#13
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Interesting info. I wonder how much more I could gain before making changes. Willie I'm guessing you're a big fan of the Pro Racers Package. My second mod that would have been my first mod, had I realized just how great it was would be FRPP lowering springs and steeda adjustable panhard bar to eliminate the horrible wheel hop. A lot of people say you need upper control arm and lower control arms to accomplish this, but all I did was change the springs, problem fixed. Remember that you're not putting all the power you have to the ground now, so I'd start with suspension.
#14
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I'm glad you mentioned rear suspension Will. You are absolutely correct. What a coincidence that I also worked on this at the same time I worked on the stock tune file. In my case, I did not replace the springs. I replaced the upper control arm with an adjustable piece, the lowers with spherical rod ends and relocation brackets.
Yes, the Pro Racer software known as Advantage III is what I use. Couldn't be happier with it. The best "mod" anyone can do simply because you can continue to tweak your own tune with every mod you add. If any mod can be considered priceless, this is it.
Willie
Yes, the Pro Racer software known as Advantage III is what I use. Couldn't be happier with it. The best "mod" anyone can do simply because you can continue to tweak your own tune with every mod you add. If any mod can be considered priceless, this is it.
Willie
#15
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I voted for Tune and CAI. Simple mods that will add plenty of power, which might be enough for you. If its not then you can always throw a pulley on later. Let me know if I can help you with getting any parts.
Derek
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