Well with snow around the corner it's time to put my car to sleep!
When I had my charger I filled it up put in fuel stabilizer into the tank, made sure the fluids are topped off or changed depending on the quality, tires inflated more than normal to avoid flat spots, left the windows cracked, and some drier sheets in the car to keep it smelling nice
And of course the battery went on a float charger to keep that alive!
Then in the spring the car came out idled for 15 minutes drove around CALMLY for about 30 minutes then all fluids got changed and the new year began!!!!
Do these cars require anything different or special to keep them stored for 4-5 months?

 

I will put a link for a gasoline storage chemical that puts " Stabil "
to shame. It will even restore old gasoline to a fresh and usable condition.
It does even more then that....just read the complete information.
I have some gas in storage that is over 6 years old and it burns just like
new fuel, but I think it has lost a little octane. I have gas for my whole
house generator plus I store a lot more in case of an emergency. I do a little overkill by treating my fuel twice a year.
I wouldn't even think of using any other product, especially in my
2014 Mustang. I am not trying to sell anything, just sharing what I know.
Tom

http://www.batterystuff.com/fuel-tre.../PRIG32oz.html

 

Was planning on starting this exact thread very soon! My only question has to do with removing the battery. I have a battery maintainer that I used on previous toys. But batteries and maintainers make me nervous. A friend of mine had his battery blow up under the hood of his... Not a pretty site. I would like to remove the battery from mine, but do not want to create issues with it removed for a extended period of time. Obviously I know I will lose things like radio presets and what not. But I do not want to lose TPM registry and things that would require a dealer to program. Does anyone else remove their battery over the winter?

 

My plan was to keep mine in the garage, and start it for 15-20 min 2x or 3x a month. The manual says you're supposed to move it at least 25 feet to keep the moving parts lubed. I'll keep the battery connected and everything. Good idea with over pressuring the tires by a few PSI OP.

 

The owner's manual describes what is needed in good detail too, as I remember.

 

If you use the proper battery tender the battery will not blow-up, that
can only happen when the battery is getting overcharged.

http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-...v021-0123.html

 

I start mine up once every 4-6 weeks and take a short drive down the gravel road to the mailbox and back to lube the trans & rear seals and charge the battery (no tender). I was advised to run/idle until the fan comes on to avoid any condensation. Been doing this for 5 months every winter since 08 (plus the other things mentioned). No issues. Runs great, no leaks, battery still fine.

 

I would imagine it does, but mine is still it it's shrink wrap.....
And on the other hand sometimes people find out things along the way that work better then what it says in the owners manual, so I figured see if anyone has any good advice.
I'll check this stuff out, but I think I will stick to Aces IV. I used it on my Charger and I think I'm gonna stick with it!!!
Thank for the avice though.
I might use this in the boat though it seems like a decent product!!!!
I've used battery tenders on my boat and cars and have had absolutely no issues. I pull the batteries out I the boat but I have never had to pull it out of May car.
Though I plugg the car in let it get fully charged and pull it off the tender for a week or so once a month! Not sure f it make a difference it just makes sense in my mind to give the battery tender a well off to recharge!!! (LOL)

 

He was unfortunately using a proper battery tender. It failed to shut off as designed... And cooked the battery until it boiled acid all over. Should not have happened... But did. Just like any other electircal component it can fail.

 

It sounds like you have a pretty good plan.
I would add a couple of items to your checklist:

1. Get a closet dehumidifier from Walmart (near the moth *****) and put that in the interior cabin. It will amaze you how much water will be in it when spring arrives. It's just a little blue and clear plastic box about 3 x 6 inches and about 4 inches tall. Cost is about $3 I think. Works great.

2. I would stuff a ball of steel wool in each exhaust tip to keep rodents out and maybe put a few moth ***** under the hood to repel them in that area.

3. I used a Schumacher battery tender on my Corvette for several years and never had an issue with it.

4. Finally, don't start it up unless you plan on leaving it running long enough to get up to operating temperature.

That should take care of everything and you should be ready to fly out of the garage when spring comes. Good luck!

 

Sweet! Perhaps I can do it just once a month then. Let it idle, then take a short drive around the neighborhood. Thanks for the insight.

 

Oh I know, just sometimes we don't think owner's manuals will even have that kind of useful info so was making sure you knew this one actually did.

 

I hate the smell of moth ***** and was told that rodents hate the smell of drier sheets so I've used those in the car under the hood etc...... So far it seems to work.
I didn't think about the dehumidifiers I use them on my boat never thought about it in the car!
So I'll grab one of those this weekend when I put the boat away.
And the steel wool in the exhaust is a hood idea.
Thanx for the advice!
LOL in this case it was (I'll admit it) pure laziness!!

 

Here is what I have done for the last 15 years of having a fun car that gets put away every winter:
Fuel stabilizer in the tank, and fill it up.
Disconnect the battery
Dryer sheets in the trunk, passenger floor, and under hood
Car up on jack stands so the tires do not flat-spot.
Place cover over car
Pout for 3-4 cold months while having to drive the "beater"

Starting your car every couple weeks will do more damage than good. You are essentially starting it "dry" every time you do that. All the oil has drained back to the pan over that time period and it takes a few seconds until the oil is circulating back through the engine. I'd rather only have one "dry" start when I start her up again in the spring.

 

Battery Tender info...

 

Ok thank you for the advice, but 2 questions!
one if you unplug the battery isn't that bad for modern cars with all the computers and such, since you reset the memory, and the car has to go through it's drive cycles all over again!!
and 2 I was always told not to put the car up on jack stands because with the suspension just hanging there that really messes up the bushing and such!!
I was actually thinking of buying these, but I really do not want to spend $250 on these!!
http://www.raceramps.com/flatstoppers.aspx

 

Well it is done!!! The pony has been laid to sleep for the cold weather!!!!