wheel HOP gone And I Mean it
wheel HOP gone And I Mean it
after asking around and getting mixed answers, I went with what most people said, and that were not trying to sell parts. all you need to remove ALL wheel hope in the S197 or for me the 2014 GT. is lower and upper control arms. "DONE" set you pinion angle at -3 and you are set for any type of setup. dont bother with relocation brackets, unless you are lowered. you can be at a stop light do a nice 1500/2000 rpm drop and just lay out just the right amount of rubber and squealing tires to not get in trouble. or you can do about a 4000 PRM drop and lay some big lines down and tire smoke. now on to my question of something I have noticed with the upper arm. this is a question for anyone running a upper arm. should I be able to feel the clutch springs contracting or at least this is what I think it is. since installing the upper arm I fell a lot more than I did with out the arm. I have no driveline vibration. so I no the Pinon ange is good. also with the arm installed everything is so nice and tight there is not any slop in the drive line.
All parts are from BMR.
the next set of parts that I will be putting on is engine turn buckle brace, and a transmission brace both sides of the Bell housing. and Subframe connectors and a panhard bar. and intime I want the most stiffest springs I can find.
2014 GT TP Base Hardtop
Thanks to all
All parts are from BMR.
the next set of parts that I will be putting on is engine turn buckle brace, and a transmission brace both sides of the Bell housing. and Subframe connectors and a panhard bar. and intime I want the most stiffest springs I can find.
2014 GT TP Base Hardtop
Thanks to all
My suspension represents a hodgepodge of manufacturers - Eibach, FRPP, Koni, Maximum Performance, WhiteLine, SR-Performance, and Steeda. The only OEM suspension component I haven't replaced yet is the UCA.
All I have left to do is a watts link, and I'm gonna use the Fays2 unit for that.
All I have left to do is a watts link, and I'm gonna use the Fays2 unit for that.
My suspension represents a hodgepodge of manufacturers - Eibach, FRPP, Koni, Maximum Performance, WhiteLine, SR-Performance, and Steeda. The only OEM suspension component I haven't replaced yet is the UCA.
All I have left to do is a watts link, and I'm gonna use the Fays2 unit for that.
All I have left to do is a watts link, and I'm gonna use the Fays2 unit for that.
My big concern was nvh. I was interested in the fays2 but heard mixed reviews including a lot about noise and a lot of regreasing to make it quiet. Please post your results with it once you buy it.
I think the hodgepodge approach is the best. You can pick the best parts maker for each part or look for the best value. I usually do that. This time, I wanted all my stuff to match. I have no idea why that matters but I wanted it. I bought mostly steeda stuff except for my cc plates and shocks/struts.

Will do. I'm not really concerned with normal NVH unless it doesn't seem normal. Vibration should never happen, but noise and harshness are to be expected when you start messing with the suspension.
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