UCA Install tips?
#1
UCA Install tips?
Hey guys,
I'm gonna install a steeda upper control arm this weekend and wanted some tips on how to tackle the job. Now I've read on a another forum that lowering the gas tank is the most effective way to remove the uca? It's strange because last night i got underneath my car to see what i was getting myself into and appears all i would have to do is removed a bolt under the rear seat and three other bolts and the whole mount should come out.
Is there something I'm missing here? Because i don't see a reason to lower my gas tank
I'm gonna install a steeda upper control arm this weekend and wanted some tips on how to tackle the job. Now I've read on a another forum that lowering the gas tank is the most effective way to remove the uca? It's strange because last night i got underneath my car to see what i was getting myself into and appears all i would have to do is removed a bolt under the rear seat and three other bolts and the whole mount should come out.
Is there something I'm missing here? Because i don't see a reason to lower my gas tank
#3
It is only on the 05-09 that you have to move/modify the tank if you are using our bracket.
The 11-14 bracket does not need any movement of the tank.
For an install perspective ... you can give us a call at 1800 950 0774 to speak to one of our techs & they can offer assistance as needed.
Best Regards,
TJ
The 11-14 bracket does not need any movement of the tank.
For an install perspective ... you can give us a call at 1800 950 0774 to speak to one of our techs & they can offer assistance as needed.
Best Regards,
TJ
#4
Well american muscle didn't have a steeda bracket available at time of purchase of my uca. What problem would i have if i were to use the stock bracket?
Last edited by SickShade14; 6/17/15 at 05:01 PM.
#5
No problem at all using the stock bracket.
But, if you wanted to, you could upgrade the bracket here:
http://www.steeda.com/2011-2014-suspension/
Best Regards,
TJ
But, if you wanted to, you could upgrade the bracket here:
http://www.steeda.com/2011-2014-suspension/
Best Regards,
TJ
#6
The OEM bracket is pretty flimsy and not adustable.
You don't need to touch the gas tank. Put the car up on jack stands and another jack (I used the floor jack) under the differential. Unbolt the sway bar ends and swing out of the way. Disconnect the shocks at the bottom. You can either disconnect the LCAs or not, I did mine at the same time as the UCA, so it was easy. You now lower the rear end as far as you can, but you still need to support it on the axle tubes. Make sure nothing is going to crush you when you get up under there. The UCA top bracket bolt has to be loosened first, you get to it from under the rear seat. Be prepared to struggle with it, it's torqued pretty good. You'll need a 24mm socket and a long cheater bar.
Fast forward to once you have it out. Go off the Steeda installation guide. pretty straightforward. Don't forget to lube any bushings with Super Lube or equivalent. And make sure you have a really good torque wrench, one that goes to at least 250 ft-lbs. Borrow one from Autozone if you need to.
Check back if you need help.
Last edited by gManTexas; 6/18/15 at 08:31 PM.
#7
Get the Steeda bracket too. Just buy it directly from Steeda.
The OEM bracket is pretty flimsy and not adustable.
You don't need to touch the gas tank. Put the car up on jack stands and another jack (I used the floor jack) under the differential. Unbolt the sway bar ends and swing out of the way. Disconnect the shocks at the bottom. You can either disconnect the LCAs or not, I did mine at the same time as the UCA, so it was easy. You now lower the rear end as far as you can, but you still need to support it on the axle tubes. Make sure nothing is going to crush you when you get up under there. The UCA top bracket bolt has to be loosened first, you get to it from under the rear seat. Be prepared to struggle with it, it's torqued pretty good. You'll need a 24mm socket and a long cheater bar.
Fast forward to once you have it out. Go off the Steeda installation guide. pretty straightforward. Don't forget to lube any bushings with Super Lube or equivalent. And make sure you have a really good torque wrench, one that goes to at least 250 ft-lbs. Borrow one from Autozone if you need to.
Check back if you need help.
The OEM bracket is pretty flimsy and not adustable.
You don't need to touch the gas tank. Put the car up on jack stands and another jack (I used the floor jack) under the differential. Unbolt the sway bar ends and swing out of the way. Disconnect the shocks at the bottom. You can either disconnect the LCAs or not, I did mine at the same time as the UCA, so it was easy. You now lower the rear end as far as you can, but you still need to support it on the axle tubes. Make sure nothing is going to crush you when you get up under there. The UCA top bracket bolt has to be loosened first, you get to it from under the rear seat. Be prepared to struggle with it, it's torqued pretty good. You'll need a 24mm socket and a long cheater bar.
Fast forward to once you have it out. Go off the Steeda installation guide. pretty straightforward. Don't forget to lube any bushings with Super Lube or equivalent. And make sure you have a really good torque wrench, one that goes to at least 250 ft-lbs. Borrow one from Autozone if you need to.
Check back if you need help.
Thanks again!
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