Tune = No Warranty
I had a similar situation years ago when I was working on a friend's car and some guy took it at gunpoint. I told the guy that the law says he can't steal the car. Are you ready for this? You are NOT going to believe it! Even after telling him it was against the law, he still took the car. What's with that?
In either event it's done now...
OK thanks (good thing i watched a hockey game once so i could understand all that) LOL j/k
again glad it worked out for you i have always thought get the warrenty on a nice soft piece of paper because in a pinch thats all it will be good for is a smooth wipe
but thats just me
again glad it worked out for you i have always thought get the warrenty on a nice soft piece of paper because in a pinch thats all it will be good for is a smooth wipe
but thats just me
OK thanks (good thing i watched a hockey game once so i could understand all that) LOL j/k
again glad it worked out for you i have always thought get the warrenty on a nice soft piece of paper because in a pinch thats all it will be good for is a smooth wipe
but thats just me
again glad it worked out for you i have always thought get the warrenty on a nice soft piece of paper because in a pinch thats all it will be good for is a smooth wipe
but thats just meNo, warranties DO work, but at the same time you have to "cover your ***". I like to mod my cars as much as the next guy, but at the risk of sounding like "a company man" you take your chances when you do things that push the car beyond its limits as released by the factory.
Don't you think that Ford would LOVE to market ALL the Mustang GTs as 450+HP? Of course it would. But the engines are derated for a reason -- it's a safety margin to avoid warranty costs. Any time you remove that margin you run the risk of blowing something up. Ford shouldn't be responsible for paying for that ....
Little off topic, but proof warranties work.
The rear end in my F-150 went out at 52,000 miles. Took it into Ford and the inspector came out and refused the warranty because it was lowered (2 inches) and there were not any shims installed. The dealer called me in and I asked them to check the Driveshaft angle which they did and it was correct to within 1/2 a degree, I put the stock shackles back in and drove it around to settle in and they rechecked it, 3 degrees out stock. ESP guy said to fix it. I was just thankful that the inspector stayed around while I came in and proved the Mod did not cause the problem.
They also changed the front ball joints but never said a thing about the front being lowered but I did use stock Ford Lightning parts on that.
The rear end in my F-150 went out at 52,000 miles. Took it into Ford and the inspector came out and refused the warranty because it was lowered (2 inches) and there were not any shims installed. The dealer called me in and I asked them to check the Driveshaft angle which they did and it was correct to within 1/2 a degree, I put the stock shackles back in and drove it around to settle in and they rechecked it, 3 degrees out stock. ESP guy said to fix it. I was just thankful that the inspector stayed around while I came in and proved the Mod did not cause the problem.
They also changed the front ball joints but never said a thing about the front being lowered but I did use stock Ford Lightning parts on that.
Now, to my knowledge, the checksum changes every time the ECU is flashed. It doesn't matter if you're putting the stock map, your stock map, bama, steeda, etc on it. The checksum will change every time. That's why I'm sure if Ford ever has to do a reflash for warranty work they document the new checksum.
The only thing that happens when you return to stock is the KAM memory is wiped. The KAM memory is where your computer stores information for emissions switches, idle control, etc. This is filled in as you drive the car. If you install a tune or if you reinstall a stock tune, this memory is cleared. You need to drive the car for approximately 50 miles or so to fill this information back in (also known as completing the drive cycle). At that point they cannot see ANYTHING whatsoever.
Even if you return to stock in the dealer parking lot and don't drive it at all and the KAM memory is completely blank, it proves nothing. If you remove your battery cable over the weekend while you went away, it would do the SAME thing regardless of the tune (aftermarket or stock). Any excuse why you took the batter cable off will work fine.
Chris
legacy Tms Member MEMORIAL Rest In Peace 10/06/2021




Joined: September 16, 2009
Posts: 3,381
Likes: 125
From: Clinton Tennessee
I returned my Mustang 'back to stock' for some warranty work. They had to order the part needed, i asked them if they could re-flash my computer because of the delay with my throttle response. I asked because they weren't very many customers there having work done to their cars. They did the re-flash and didn't say anything to me about anything being messed with
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This is incorrect. If you use an SCT or Diablo aftermarket tuner/programmer you'll be able to go back to stock and there's no trace of anything.
The only thing that happens when you return to stock is the KAM memory is wiped. The KAM memory is where your computer stores information for emissions switches, idle control, etc. This is filled in as you drive the car. If you install a tune or if you reinstall a stock tune, this memory is cleared. You need to drive the car for approximately 50 miles or so to fill this information back in (also known as completing the drive cycle). At that point they cannot see ANYTHING whatsoever.
Even if you return to stock in the dealer parking lot and don't drive it at all and the KAM memory is completely blank, it proves nothing. If you remove your battery cable over the weekend while you went away, it would do the SAME thing regardless of the tune (aftermarket or stock). Any excuse why you took the batter cable off will work fine.
Chris
The only thing that happens when you return to stock is the KAM memory is wiped. The KAM memory is where your computer stores information for emissions switches, idle control, etc. This is filled in as you drive the car. If you install a tune or if you reinstall a stock tune, this memory is cleared. You need to drive the car for approximately 50 miles or so to fill this information back in (also known as completing the drive cycle). At that point they cannot see ANYTHING whatsoever.
Even if you return to stock in the dealer parking lot and don't drive it at all and the KAM memory is completely blank, it proves nothing. If you remove your battery cable over the weekend while you went away, it would do the SAME thing regardless of the tune (aftermarket or stock). Any excuse why you took the batter cable off will work fine.
Chris
Situation:
1. Your engine fails and you have a tune.
2. You put the tune back to 'stock, take the car to the dealership and ask them to fix it.
3. They ask you if the car has been tuned and you say 'no'.
If so you just stole, or tried to steal, thousands of dollars from Ford.
Maybe some people are more honest than others.
Situation:
1. Your engine fails and you have a tune.
2. You put the tune back to 'stock, take the car to the dealership and ask them to fix it.
3. They ask you if the car has been tuned and you say 'no'.
If so you just stole, or tried to steal, thousands of dollars from Ford.
Situation:
1. Your engine fails and you have a tune.
2. You put the tune back to 'stock, take the car to the dealership and ask them to fix it.
3. They ask you if the car has been tuned and you say 'no'.
If so you just stole, or tried to steal, thousands of dollars from Ford.
It's actually harder to "blow up" an engine than most people think. We could purposely try to blow a mod motor up and it would take some time and abuse, still. The only time it becomes "easier" to blow a mod motor up is forced induction. I think the engine failure is where people get scared. They're afraid of the unknown. If you're running a naturally aspirated GT or V6 and you have a tune and a couple bolt-ons... something pretty serious has to go wrong for it to actually experience a full-fledged failure. Usually mechnical.
Either way, I would never recommend anyone try and "pull a fast one" on the dealer. I just don't think engine failure is even a moderate concern until you start messing with power adders.
Thanks Chris, but on my F150 they new that i had plugged in something they just didn't know what it was. the truck had an extended warranty but somehow they knew. after a conversation with the service manager i explained that i had a tuner but the damage done had nothing to do with the tuner...
Fixing Sync issues sometimes needs to have a nice reset...a great excuse if you need one.
"Yes, I pulled the battery cable to reset Sync that I was having problems with." - Customer
"Oh, that makes sense." - Service Manager
"Yes, I pulled the battery cable to reset Sync that I was having problems with." - Customer
"Oh, that makes sense." - Service Manager
Thanks Chris, but on my F150 they new that i had plugged in something they just didn't know what it was. the truck had an extended warranty but somehow they knew. after a conversation with the service manager i explained that i had a tuner but the damage done had nothing to do with the tuner...
Kool well it sounds like im getting a tune and if anything should go wrong just put the stock tune back on and take it in
You should respect yourself more and not steal from everyone else.
Im not saying that im gonna steal from anyone. I will be the first to admit that i have a tuner installed and that the problem is either still going on with/without the tune, but i am not that guy that will pull the neg cable to try and fool ford. I have integrity...
In your previous post you explicitly said you planned to defraud Ford out of warranty parts and service in the case of a problem that would typically warrant warranty work on a stock car. This is stealing.


