Guys I have been modding my 11 for a few months now with RTR's, Magnaflow comp catback, Steeda intake with Evo Tune, ARh headers with catted x, 1.5 FRpp lowering springs, and adjustable panhard bar. I have been having some issues with my catback associated with my lowering springs. I feel like the 1.5 for my car is too low as i am having problems with the pipes being to close to the rear axle, etc. I also feel like to car is bottoming out a lil in the rear with is kinda doing wierd things to the exhaust. If i go over a huge drop or bump it feels like not only does my pipe hit the axle, but the pipes going from the x back kinda hit the under part of my car. I am thinking I either need to lift the car back up with maybe the 1 inch lift, or can i just do the back springs? Or should i go the shock route to tighten the suspension up. All I know is I am clueless at this point and frustrated because I feel like the car is too low with this gigantic exhaust. If anyone could help on whether its a no no to just raise the back back up to the 1 inch lowering springs or not, or what my best option is I would appreciate it. thanks.

 

When you installed the springs, did you also install the recommended bump stops?

Might be all you need to keep it from hitting the pipes.

That or slow down over bumps.

 

Those shorter stops will actually allow MORE Vertical axle travel.

Seems he needs someone to re-do that exhaust install, or raise the car! I'm not a fan of a 1.5" drop...

 

The exhuast has been redone with a completely new kit by Evolution because the first kit was screwed up. the second one was better but no matter how u slice it with the car being lowered there is only about an inch of clearance on the driver side where the pipe goes over the axle. I think I either need to raise the back or whole car up, or get some stiffer shocks so there is not so much give back there. On a seperate note, I love the headers and x pipe but they make the initial cat back pipes come within about 1/2inch from the emergency brake braket at the center of the car which hits in the rear slams down hard. LOL i feel like i cant win lol. This is my 5th stang and i have never had so many problems with parts that are supposed to be direct bolt ons. Oh well. Thanks for the help again. Any other comments on me just changing the rear shocks or springs?

 

You might also want to look and make sure your tires are not hitting the fenders. The RTR wheels don't exactly have the ideal offset in them, and they tend to run real close to the fenders depending on the tire you are using.

 

I have the 1.5 FRPP springs with a 3" pipe midpipe from the H to the mufflers and they dont have an issues (dynomax) what brand is your cat back? who installed it? was it aligned properly?

 

I have magnaflows comp 3 inch, and it was installed by evolution. This is the second kit I had on the car. They have now both hit in the same spot (driver side where the pipe starts to go over the axle.) I firmly believe this is an issue with magnaflow and my car being lowered but who knows. BTW stinger how do you like your frpp adjustables, and what was the biggest advantage from them? Thanks.

 

You should call Sam Strano. He's the suspension guru and he post s here pretty often

 

I take the k springs off and put speeda sport springs on. (1" in the front 1.2 in the back on the drop)

 

Ok, I notice that you don't mention the shocks you are currently using on your car. Do you have aftermarket shocks with those drastic springs? I may not be a Mustang know it all but I've done work lowering much heavier beasts and like Sam has said before the shocks do most of the work. It's a true statement. Not only that, the shocks should compliment the springs. 1" to me is pushing it personally to run without proper shocks. 1.5" is asking for trouble. The factory shocks aren't made to be that low so if you do stress them, they are going to react but not the way that they should given the spring rate, and rebound needed. It's like mismatching a resistor and capacitor in a filter. If the capacitor is mismatched then not only do you get transient ripples, you also can see an infinite dampening effect. Called over damped. Under damped and the capacitor or shock will have to compensate too quickly but it can't so it is in a constant state of rebound playing catch up. Just my 2 cents.

 

thanks for the feedback. I think i will be regrettably switching to the 1 inch drop so it is less severe. I was wondering what ford dampeners to use cause I have read that you need to use a spacer or different braket at the top? Is this correct or do they sell ones that will bolt up direct?

 

Before you buy anything you really should call Sam. He can tell you exactly what you need so you won't waste money, and he's a retailer who can cut you a good deal

 

or me.....

Rehagen is now a partner of TMS and a vender.

OP I sent you a PM

 

An oscillator, that's the word I was looking for.




Oh, my bad.

 

Are you talking about the strut mount? Most people replace it with a stronger one i.e. the GT500 version because it tends to break when changing out to a more aggressive suspension. Plus overall longevity is better. I would rec recommend this change, there are many available on the market. Talk to Shaun or Sam.

 

Yeah or Shaun too! And Rehagen can do installs too.

I gotta keep up to date on who to recommend.

Jeff, Brian, KC, Gus, Shaun, Sam, Chris.....so many valuable members here