suspension drop = wheelhop cure? where can I learn more?
4/11/11, 09:06 AM
#1
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
suspension drop = wheelhop cure? where can I learn more?
I have a Brembo package car and I LOVE just about everything about this machine but this car wheelhops as bad as anything that i have ever driven and it's a major buzzkill. This car will even wheelhop when I chirp second gear.. it's embarassing and potentially damaging...
In the "5.0 bad traction" thread, it was mentioned that lowering a 2011+ Mustang GT cures wheelhop issues for those who have the problem...is this true? If so, would a mild 1" drop do the trick? Where can I learn more?
Which suspension kit did you go with?
It sounds like the Koni SRT(?) shocks are pretty well liked...
Which springs are you running?
What other parts are necessary?
Did you need a four wheel alignment? I assume that this would be necessary.
Thanks for any info!
In the "5.0 bad traction" thread, it was mentioned that lowering a 2011+ Mustang GT cures wheelhop issues for those who have the problem...is this true? If so, would a mild 1" drop do the trick? Where can I learn more?
Which suspension kit did you go with?
It sounds like the Koni SRT(?) shocks are pretty well liked...
Which springs are you running?
What other parts are necessary?
Did you need a four wheel alignment? I assume that this would be necessary.
Thanks for any info!
4/11/11, 09:36 AM
#2
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I have a Brembo package car and I LOVE just about everything about this machine but this car wheelhops as bad as anything that i have ever driven and it's a major buzzkill. This car will even wheelhop when I chirp second gear.. it's embarassing and potentially damaging...
In the "5.0 bad traction" thread, it was mentioned that lowering a 2011+ Mustang GT cures wheelhop issues for those who have the problem...is this true? If so, would a mild 1" drop do the trick? Where can I learn more?
Which suspension kit did you go with?
It sounds like the Koni SRT(?) shocks are pretty well liked...
Which springs are you running?
What other parts are necessary?
Did you need a four wheel alignment? I assume that this would be necessary.
Thanks for any info!
In the "5.0 bad traction" thread, it was mentioned that lowering a 2011+ Mustang GT cures wheelhop issues for those who have the problem...is this true? If so, would a mild 1" drop do the trick? Where can I learn more?
Which suspension kit did you go with?
It sounds like the Koni SRT(?) shocks are pretty well liked...
Which springs are you running?
What other parts are necessary?
Did you need a four wheel alignment? I assume that this would be necessary.
Thanks for any info!
The wheel hop before the install was terrible, seems to be completely gone now.
Extra parts needed when installing new struts are a set of 05-10 strut mounts. I would go ahead and get the Steeda units because they are a better design than OEM and allow for more camber adjustment. If you get the Steeda ones you'll need the spring isolaters from some 05-10 strut mounts. If you talk to Sam Strano he can help you with all that stuff and make recommendations for your exact needs/wants.
I got an alignment on my car after I swapped everything out, I'm not sure exactly how far off everything was because I'm living in Italy and I can't figure out the alignment sheet I got. (It's all in Italian).
4/11/11, 09:46 AM
#3
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
I bought a Steeda Sport Springs, Koni STR-T's, and Steeda heavy duty strut mounts from Sam Strano.
The wheel hop before the install was terrible, seems to be completely gone now.
Extra parts needed when installing new struts are a set of 05-10 strut mounts. I would go ahead and get the Steeda units because they are a better design than OEM and allow for more camber adjustment. If you get the Steeda ones you'll need the spring isolaters from some 05-10 strut mounts. If you talk to Sam Strano he can help you with all that stuff and make recommendations for your exact needs/wants.
I got an alignment on my car after I swapped everything out, I'm not sure exactly how far off everything was because I'm living in Italy and I can't figure out the alignment sheet I got. (It's all in Italian).
The wheel hop before the install was terrible, seems to be completely gone now.
Extra parts needed when installing new struts are a set of 05-10 strut mounts. I would go ahead and get the Steeda units because they are a better design than OEM and allow for more camber adjustment. If you get the Steeda ones you'll need the spring isolaters from some 05-10 strut mounts. If you talk to Sam Strano he can help you with all that stuff and make recommendations for your exact needs/wants.
I got an alignment on my car after I swapped everything out, I'm not sure exactly how far off everything was because I'm living in Italy and I can't figure out the alignment sheet I got. (It's all in Italian).
It's very encouraging to hear that this seemingly cured the problem.
How much of a drop did you go with? Any ride or clearance issues?
4/11/11, 06:06 PM
#4
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The reasoning behind what's happening on a lowered mustang is that traction is actually reduced.
Here's the basic premise on how the 3 link in the 05+ mustangs are designed. The angle of the lower control arms act as a lever arm on the axle housing. As load is applied to the rear end and compression of the springs/shocks begins, the lever arm forces the axle housing harder and harder into the ground. This improves traction quite substantially from load force. The problem is that for NVH considerations, the rear end equipment has soft rubber bushings which deflect. This allows the tires to momentarily lose traction before the lever arms catch up and plant the wheels back into the ground. This happens repeatedly and creates the wheel hop that is inherent in these cars.
By lowering the factory suspension, you change that angle of the lower control arms to a point where the system doesn't work as well on the leverage end of things. Thus decreasing traction and allowing the wheels to simply spin.
For normal daily drivers this is actually probably preferable. However if you're a racer and depend on traction, it hinders you a bit. This is the reason why you see lower control arm relocation brackets for sale on these cars. It brings the angle of the lower control arms back to the proper location so that the system can once again work properly.
Of course this will bring some of that resultant wheel hop back. however with stiffer springs and shocks in place, wheel motion can be controlled better, which also reduces the chance of wheel hop.
If you don't want to lower your suspension, change out the factory lower control arms and bushings with something stiffer. That should help!
Here's the basic premise on how the 3 link in the 05+ mustangs are designed. The angle of the lower control arms act as a lever arm on the axle housing. As load is applied to the rear end and compression of the springs/shocks begins, the lever arm forces the axle housing harder and harder into the ground. This improves traction quite substantially from load force. The problem is that for NVH considerations, the rear end equipment has soft rubber bushings which deflect. This allows the tires to momentarily lose traction before the lever arms catch up and plant the wheels back into the ground. This happens repeatedly and creates the wheel hop that is inherent in these cars.
By lowering the factory suspension, you change that angle of the lower control arms to a point where the system doesn't work as well on the leverage end of things. Thus decreasing traction and allowing the wheels to simply spin.
For normal daily drivers this is actually probably preferable. However if you're a racer and depend on traction, it hinders you a bit. This is the reason why you see lower control arm relocation brackets for sale on these cars. It brings the angle of the lower control arms back to the proper location so that the system can once again work properly.
Of course this will bring some of that resultant wheel hop back. however with stiffer springs and shocks in place, wheel motion can be controlled better, which also reduces the chance of wheel hop.
If you don't want to lower your suspension, change out the factory lower control arms and bushings with something stiffer. That should help!
4/11/11, 06:31 PM
#5
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The reasoning behind what's happening on a lowered mustang is that traction is actually reduced.
Here's the basic premise on how the 3 link in the 05+ mustangs are designed. The angle of the lower control arms act as a lever arm on the axle housing. As load is applied to the rear end and compression of the springs/shocks begins, the lever arm forces the axle housing harder and harder into the ground. This improves traction quite substantially from load force. The problem is that for NVH considerations, the rear end equipment has soft rubber bushings which deflect. This allows the tires to momentarily lose traction before the lever arms catch up and plant the wheels back into the ground. This happens repeatedly and creates the wheel hop that is inherent in these cars.
By lowering the factory suspension, you change that angle of the lower control arms to a point where the system doesn't work as well on the leverage end of things. Thus decreasing traction and allowing the wheels to simply spin.
For normal daily drivers this is actually probably preferable. However if you're a racer and depend on traction, it hinders you a bit. This is the reason why you see lower control arm relocation brackets for sale on these cars. It brings the angle of the lower control arms back to the proper location so that the system can once again work properly.
Of course this will bring some of that resultant wheel hop back. however with stiffer springs and shocks in place, wheel motion can be controlled better, which also reduces the chance of wheel hop.
If you don't want to lower your suspension, change out the factory lower control arms and bushings with something stiffer. That should help!
Here's the basic premise on how the 3 link in the 05+ mustangs are designed. The angle of the lower control arms act as a lever arm on the axle housing. As load is applied to the rear end and compression of the springs/shocks begins, the lever arm forces the axle housing harder and harder into the ground. This improves traction quite substantially from load force. The problem is that for NVH considerations, the rear end equipment has soft rubber bushings which deflect. This allows the tires to momentarily lose traction before the lever arms catch up and plant the wheels back into the ground. This happens repeatedly and creates the wheel hop that is inherent in these cars.
By lowering the factory suspension, you change that angle of the lower control arms to a point where the system doesn't work as well on the leverage end of things. Thus decreasing traction and allowing the wheels to simply spin.
For normal daily drivers this is actually probably preferable. However if you're a racer and depend on traction, it hinders you a bit. This is the reason why you see lower control arm relocation brackets for sale on these cars. It brings the angle of the lower control arms back to the proper location so that the system can once again work properly.
Of course this will bring some of that resultant wheel hop back. however with stiffer springs and shocks in place, wheel motion can be controlled better, which also reduces the chance of wheel hop.
If you don't want to lower your suspension, change out the factory lower control arms and bushings with something stiffer. That should help!
4/11/11, 11:32 PM
#6
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The Steeda springs drop the front approx 1" and the rear 1.25". No clearance issues on my car. The gap is cleaned up but I'm not rubbing on speed bumps.
4/12/11, 08:34 AM
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I bought a Steeda Sport Springs, Koni STR-T's, and Steeda heavy duty strut mounts from Sam Strano.
The wheel hop before the install was terrible, seems to be completely gone now.
Extra parts needed when installing new struts are a set of 05-10 strut mounts. I would go ahead and get the Steeda units because they are a better design than OEM and allow for more camber adjustment. If you get the Steeda ones you'll need the spring isolaters from some 05-10 strut mounts. If you talk to Sam Strano he can help you with all that stuff and make recommendations for your exact needs/wants.
I got an alignment on my car after I swapped everything out, I'm not sure exactly how far off everything was because I'm living in Italy and I can't figure out the alignment sheet I got. (It's all in Italian).
The wheel hop before the install was terrible, seems to be completely gone now.
Extra parts needed when installing new struts are a set of 05-10 strut mounts. I would go ahead and get the Steeda units because they are a better design than OEM and allow for more camber adjustment. If you get the Steeda ones you'll need the spring isolaters from some 05-10 strut mounts. If you talk to Sam Strano he can help you with all that stuff and make recommendations for your exact needs/wants.
I got an alignment on my car after I swapped everything out, I'm not sure exactly how far off everything was because I'm living in Italy and I can't figure out the alignment sheet I got. (It's all in Italian).
4/12/11, 08:42 AM
#8
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An adjustable Panhard is often necessary to center the axle after lowering.
A Watts Link replaces the Panhard and keeps the axle centered at all times through the entire suspension travel. Handling characteristics will be identical in left and right transitions where it isn't with the Panhard. Neither of these really deal with the wheel hop issue being discussed. The Watts Link is a very desirable Mod if you like a car that handles well..
Last edited by Modshack; 4/12/11 at 08:43 AM.
4/12/11, 09:53 AM
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Axle
An adjustable Panhard is often necessary to center the axle after lowering.
A Watts Link replaces the Panhard and keeps the axle centered at all times through the entire suspension travel. Handling characteristics will be identical in left and right transitions where it isn't with the Panhard. Neither of these really deal with the wheel hop issue being discussed. The Watts Link is a very desirable Mod if you like a car that handles well..
A Watts Link replaces the Panhard and keeps the axle centered at all times through the entire suspension travel. Handling characteristics will be identical in left and right transitions where it isn't with the Panhard. Neither of these really deal with the wheel hop issue being discussed. The Watts Link is a very desirable Mod if you like a car that handles well..
4/12/11, 10:11 AM
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A panhard rod is attached to the chassis on one side of the car, and the axle on the other. As the axle goes up and down on the springs, the Arc of the panhard bar moves the axle left and right. Lowering the car changes the Panhard angle and generally moves the axle to the left.
4/12/11, 10:21 AM
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An adjustable Panhard is often necessary to center the axle after lowering.
A Watts Link replaces the Panhard and keeps the axle centered at all times through the entire suspension travel. Handling characteristics will be identical in left and right transitions where it isn't with the Panhard. Neither of these really deal with the wheel hop issue being discussed. The Watts Link is a very desirable Mod if you like a car that handles well..
A Watts Link replaces the Panhard and keeps the axle centered at all times through the entire suspension travel. Handling characteristics will be identical in left and right transitions where it isn't with the Panhard. Neither of these really deal with the wheel hop issue being discussed. The Watts Link is a very desirable Mod if you like a car that handles well..
4/12/11, 10:29 AM
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4/12/11, 10:57 AM
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4/12/11, 11:09 AM
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No problem....On the insulaltion I wanted to tone down the Bassani's a bit to make it more civilized (from the inside) day to day. The car has a more sophisticated, quality feel to it as a side benefit. $100 and 15 lbs is all it took. I had done this with great success in my C6 Corvette as well. Check out the insulation album in my sig link..
4/12/11, 11:09 AM
#15
Cobra Member
The reasoning behind what's happening on a lowered mustang is that traction is actually reduced.
Here's the basic premise on how the 3 link in the 05+ mustangs are designed. The angle of the lower control arms act as a lever arm on the axle housing. As load is applied to the rear end and compression of the springs/shocks begins, the lever arm forces the axle housing harder and harder into the ground. This improves traction quite substantially from load force. The problem is that for NVH considerations, the rear end equipment has soft rubber bushings which deflect. This allows the tires to momentarily lose traction before the lever arms catch up and plant the wheels back into the ground. This happens repeatedly and creates the wheel hop that is inherent in these cars.
By lowering the factory suspension, you change that angle of the lower control arms to a point where the system doesn't work as well on the leverage end of things. Thus decreasing traction and allowing the wheels to simply spin.
For normal daily drivers this is actually probably preferable. However if you're a racer and depend on traction, it hinders you a bit. This is the reason why you see lower control arm relocation brackets for sale on these cars. It brings the angle of the lower control arms back to the proper location so that the system can once again work properly.
Of course this will bring some of that resultant wheel hop back. however with stiffer springs and shocks in place, wheel motion can be controlled better, which also reduces the chance of wheel hop.
If you don't want to lower your suspension, change out the factory lower control arms and bushings with something stiffer. That should help!
Here's the basic premise on how the 3 link in the 05+ mustangs are designed. The angle of the lower control arms act as a lever arm on the axle housing. As load is applied to the rear end and compression of the springs/shocks begins, the lever arm forces the axle housing harder and harder into the ground. This improves traction quite substantially from load force. The problem is that for NVH considerations, the rear end equipment has soft rubber bushings which deflect. This allows the tires to momentarily lose traction before the lever arms catch up and plant the wheels back into the ground. This happens repeatedly and creates the wheel hop that is inherent in these cars.
By lowering the factory suspension, you change that angle of the lower control arms to a point where the system doesn't work as well on the leverage end of things. Thus decreasing traction and allowing the wheels to simply spin.
For normal daily drivers this is actually probably preferable. However if you're a racer and depend on traction, it hinders you a bit. This is the reason why you see lower control arm relocation brackets for sale on these cars. It brings the angle of the lower control arms back to the proper location so that the system can once again work properly.
Of course this will bring some of that resultant wheel hop back. however with stiffer springs and shocks in place, wheel motion can be controlled better, which also reduces the chance of wheel hop.
If you don't want to lower your suspension, change out the factory lower control arms and bushings with something stiffer. That should help!
4/12/11, 11:17 AM
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4/12/11, 11:25 AM
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Good plan Steve!...I've been meaning to get to that.
I bought some rust converter and have it on the list!
How's my car running??....
I bought some rust converter and have it on the list!
How's my car running??....
Last edited by Modshack; 4/12/11 at 11:26 AM.