I'm interested in your opinions on this matter. As of now like my signature says I have Michelin Pilot PS2s 275/40/19. Now with the amount of power I have going to the rear wheels with advancetrac and everything fully on I can easily light up the tires in second and even some in third. That's fun and all at first but now i'm really wishing it would hook up. The Michelins have a treadwear of 220. I was thinking when these need to be replaced to get one with an even lower treadwear rating. Now if I go low enough i'm pretty confident the car will hook up now but my main issue is are there other components i'll have to think of changing now if I know If I drop the hammer in first or even second and I hook up my driveshaft isn't going to split in two or other components. Thoughts?

 

I don't think you will have to worry about breaking anything unless you are putting slicks on the rear or Drag radials. Even then you will still be able to break them loose if you choose to. What size tires are you going to put on next? How do you like the 275's? It's not just the wear rating you should be looking at, also look at the heat and traction ratings too. Tires that have a AA A rating are going to stick really well even though they have a higher wear rating. Michelin Pilot Sport A/S + have a really high wear rating 500+ and still have a AA traction rating. If you are going just summer tires then the lower the better. They won't last very long though. Just be careful when you are driving around if you put something like the NT-01's on the rear. A friend of mine had then on his GTO that had around 680HP to the wheels and hit a small patch of water when he was in the throttle and when he caught traction I saw about 3 ball bearings go straight through his trunk when he shattered one of his driveshafts.

 

The 275s are great they handle really well my issue is putting the power down. I was looking at the NT-01s or similar. But I guess my fear is like what happened to your friend. I still have the stock two piece driveshaft.

 

Your considering a DOT compliant road race tire for your daily driver?

Have you considered using LCA relocation brackets or the brackets in combination with control arms or a complete rear suspension package? if you haven't already; the brackets, brackets & arms or the whole package would probably solve a lot of your problems.

I used UMI's relo brackets in conjunction with their control arms (they sell them as a "traction package") when I had the OE rubber on my car with good results when it had the stock power (something on the order of 460hp to the rear wheels).

You might want to consider that before you turn to road race tire that Nitto rates as having poor wet performance.

 

I agree with this assessment too. I didn't even think to look at your sig and find out what suspension stuff you had done as far as traction. I second the Upper Control Arms, Lower Control Arms, Adjustable Pan Hard Bar. Kenny Brown makes a Panhard Relocation system that works so well (according to them) that some people can remove the rear sway bar. I'm going to use their stuff when I get to my suspension. There is some REALLY great information in this article. This is how I made the decision of what to do with my car. The theory and progression make sense to ME anyway.

http://www.kennybrown.com/kb101_plan#top

 

So just those three? LCA UCA and the panhard? I see this package: http://store.kennybrown.com/product/...-2012-mustangs

 

How much power are you putting down?


Biggest concern with Sticky tires and high torque is the driveshaft but even more the weak axles. The same axle is used on the v-6 thru the GT500.

I am on my second one and likely headed to a third. After the warranty is up a moser will be going on.

 

That's the package I plan on getting so I'm not spending extra money on stuff I don't need. I already have the trans support brace because I have the TP. I think the biggest thing will be the handling overall will be much improved over even the TP set-up because the spring rates that Ford used as well as the damping setting for the stock shocks aren't enough to really keep these cars planted. The UCA and LCA along with the PHB relocation to below the centerline of the rear diff is what's going to settle the rear end down. Check the video's out that outline why they did what they did with the geometry of the system. I'm also going to get the rear strut tower brace and the lightweight K member and radiator support for the front to even out the weight distro for the car overall.

 

Good god man. I would have to assume you hit the drag strip with slicks or DR's and have a manual transmission and are launching hard? The Stock axles are not weak, but like any stock component, they have their limits. For 99% of mustang owners that only use street tires, they will never have an axle breakage issue.

 

Car was on stock Goodyear's. never been to the strip. Never launched above 2500 rpm. Launched at 2500 one time and tires went up in smoke.

I should have been more specific on the axle. It did not break it was bent. Two other new mustangs were getting their's replaced at the same time while I was in the shop. One had 300 miles on it.

I don't trash my car at all. A few 40/70 rolls every now and then but nothing compared to most.

 

The halfshafts on the GTOs had notoriously weak CV cages. Combine that with the massive wheel hop those cars suffered. I had two of them. My second one blew up a CV cage mostly stock.

 

May I ask what that runs, with labor?

 

511hp/445ft.lbs. at the wheels. I really hope I don't have to replace my axles!

Hmm I will have to consider this. But my main concern is traction, track isn't really in mind with this car although it'd be fun to try it on the track. Mainly a street car.

 

Put a good set of 305's out back. That's not enough power to really shatter anything. That drivetrain you have is pretty sturdy. Remember the Boss and Shelby driveshaft and rear end really aren't much different from what you have.

 

I have the BOSS rearend because I got the Track Package. Does anyone know of anyone who has 305's on 18" wheels in the rear on the newer GT's?

 

Lots of people are running 305's on the GTs. Just buy quality tires because cheap wide tires just won't cut it. I met a guy with a mild nitrous set up GT that runs tall 15" ET streets all day long and no problems whatsoever if that helps any.

 

That's a lot of coin for 305's though. 20's and 305's look really great but I want to go 18's so I have more tire options. Thanks for the info.

 

I'll just need to run a staggered setup. Not a big deal though the car only gets driven on the weekend if at all.

 

I actually have 18" 305 MT ET's scheduled to be delivered to me tomorrow. And I will be able to test them out this weekend.

 

I will check back in here to see how they fair. Staggered looks so good.