So.....
A few weeks ago, I took my '12 down to IN to have some work done by a reputable shop that I won't mention the name of (unless you PM me).
Anywho...
They did some power pak work, associated exhaust work, etc. some suspension work...and last but not least, install a Hurst line-lock.

When they were all done, after have the car from 8am to 8pm, they got stuck trying to bleed the brakes. After about another hour, they brought me the car and said "All set". I asked if the brakes were good, and they said "Yep". Upon leaving the shop, I quickly discovered the brake were NOT good. Pedal was low and spongy. By this time it was too late, and I didn't want to be "that guy" that comes back. So I drove back home (3 hours), and incidentally found that I drove home 3 hours with a MISSING master cylinder cap!!!!!!??!!!! But nonetheless, my question is should the brakes in a s297 be that difficult to bleed? Does the ABS play into anything. I'd like to rectify this myself without succumbing to a brake shop!?!

 

They aren't that difficult to bleed. I flush them about every six months to keep the moisture out. It usually takes me longer to jack the car up and pull the wheels off than to actually bleed them out. I use a pressure bleeder, since I am usually doing it by myself.

 

It would be better, in my opinion to have someone help you to bleed the brakes. I don't so I use a Mity Vac. I agree with EF1, the hardest part is jacking up and removing the wheels

 

I use a pressure bleeder also. They cost about $50 or so and definitely worth it. If there is some air in there somewhere, the pressure bleeder should get it out, if you do a fairly full flush. Get a couple bottles of fluid and basically just run it through.

Just watch the pressure hose to make sure you are not pushing air in to the reservoir.

 

Bleeding brakes is generally a fairly simple operation. If you're not in a hurry, gravity bleeding works just fine and dosen't require any extra help. Once the car is up on jack stands and the wheels are off start with the wheel cylinder/caliper farthest from the master cylinder which on most cars will be the right rear. Loosen the master cylinder cap & either remove it or just slide it off to the side a little. Open the bleeder on the right rear and wait for the fluid to start coming out. If you want to minimize mess put a length of vacuum hose over the bleeder nipple and run it into a catch can. Watch the fluid level in the master cylinder and don't let it get too low before adding fresh fluid or you will get air in the system. After you've run some fluid through close the bleeder and repeat this with the left rear, then the right front and finish with the left front. If you have a helper you can use hydraulic pressure to speed things up. Use the same wheel order. Have the helper pump the brake pedal a few times so that the pedal is as high and solid as possible and then while they push down on the pedal open the bleeder. It's VERY IMPORTANT that they don't allow the pedal to come back up until you've closed the bleeder. You will probably have to repeat this a few times for each caliper. It will be pretty obvious when you are getting a mix of air and fluid. When it's fluid only move on to the next caliper. Finally and I know you won't like to hear this, I have found that some times the valving in the line locks causes the brakes to feel a little less solid then they did before the installation. Not all the time, but I've seen enough cars with line locks to know it does happen. Still with a through bleeding of the system you brake feel should get back to close to what it was before the line lock installation. I know it's a long drive back to the shop and you don't want to be a pest, but I am sure you paid good money for their services and brakes are much too important to take chances on. If you can't get a satisfactory brake feel after bleeding them I would take it back and insist that they make it right.

 

Thanks for all the comments- much appreciated. I'm VERY familiar with the act of bleeding brakes. What I was really trying to vet out was if the ABS module introduces extra steps to the process. I have heard that if the LL is positioned before the ABS module, it supposedly requires a "cycling" of the ABS module (with a programmer tool). This is the part that confuses me.
I'm going to make some calls to "brake shops" and see what kind of answers I get. The bottom-line is that me myself, I'm done. I'd much rather just write a check at this point.
Incidentally, I am going to send a copy of the receipt to the original shop and request reimbursement. If I get it, great! If not, I guess I won't fret it - I'll just be happy with firm/solid brakes.