Rear wheels uneven at fenders
5/22/12 | 01:09 PM
#21
Mach 1 Member
Joined: March 20, 2011
Posts: 869
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From: Bremen, Indiana
Originally Posted by tetstang
Still... can't figure out why, with solid axle rear, that the rear wheels should be anything but parallel. I'll keep checking it out, and maybe get it up on a rack to see how the wheels hang.
Thanks for the replies. Did anyone really take a look at their 2010+ car to see what their rear wheels sat like?
Thanks for the replies. Did anyone really take a look at their 2010+ car to see what their rear wheels sat like?
5/22/12 | 03:27 PM
#22
Team Mustang Source
Joined: January 15, 2005
Posts: 1,426
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From: So. FL
The more the rear suspension is compressed the more the axle will pushed towards the driver's side, which is the same thing that happens if you were to install lowering springs.
5/22/12 | 05:00 PM
#23
Mach 1 Member
Joined: February 22, 2011
Posts: 509
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From: Akron, Ohio
Mines even but my dads was off both 2012 5.0s stock from the factory. I've got brembo package Dad didn't. Took it to ford they said it was in range and there are no adjustments on the stock panhard bar so they didn't/couldn't do anything. Aftermarket bar fixes this for about $100 but you "need" anyway if you lower your car so not really a big deal ...
5/24/12 | 09:57 AM
#24
Thread Starter
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Joined: June 26, 2011
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I feel like I understand the issue now. Uneven-ness at the fenders (or, pushed to the driver's side) is normal, due to the path of the movement of the axle and the panhard bar.
As for the camber of my p/s rear wheel, I checked it a bunch of times parked on different "flat" spots around town. I measured the out-of-plumb of each rear wheel at the rim, not the tire sidewalls. It varied, but each time, the rims were pretty much parallel. That is to say, if the p/s leaned in 3/8" at the top, the d/s leaned in 3/8" at the bottom. Pretty much... there was some variance, and the wheels still sit non-parallel in my garage. I'll assume it's flex in the axles/housing and call it normal.
So, back to my first post --- since my d/s wheel is closer to the fender than my p/s (when the car is "at rest"), there is only about 3/4"-7/8" to work with on fitting a wider wheel/tire in there without it protruding past the edge of the fender. That's on the d/s.
It may always bug me that it's uneven, particularly when I get a wider setup, but at least I know why it's that way.
Thanks to all for their input.
As for the camber of my p/s rear wheel, I checked it a bunch of times parked on different "flat" spots around town. I measured the out-of-plumb of each rear wheel at the rim, not the tire sidewalls. It varied, but each time, the rims were pretty much parallel. That is to say, if the p/s leaned in 3/8" at the top, the d/s leaned in 3/8" at the bottom. Pretty much... there was some variance, and the wheels still sit non-parallel in my garage. I'll assume it's flex in the axles/housing and call it normal.
So, back to my first post --- since my d/s wheel is closer to the fender than my p/s (when the car is "at rest"), there is only about 3/4"-7/8" to work with on fitting a wider wheel/tire in there without it protruding past the edge of the fender. That's on the d/s.
It may always bug me that it's uneven, particularly when I get a wider setup, but at least I know why it's that way.
Thanks to all for their input.
5/24/12 | 11:24 AM
#25
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Joined: March 20, 2011
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From: Bremen, Indiana
Originally Posted by SoFlaBoss
The more the rear suspension is compressed the more the axle will pushed towards the driver's side, which is the same thing that happens if you were to install lowering springs.
5/25/12 | 08:07 AM
#26
Mach 1 Member
Joined: March 20, 2011
Posts: 869
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From: Bremen, Indiana
Ok I got under my car last night and at static ride height (preloaded) the panhard bar is level with the ground. Any more or less compression or extension on the suspension would result in the axle shifting to the pass. Side. An adjustable panhard wouldn't solve this as it would still pull towards pass side even though it would be centered properly under preload. I can see now how a watts link would be so desirable.
10/18/16 | 08:53 AM
#27
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Joined: August 31, 2016
Posts: 38
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This is an old thread but still a viable subject.
I don't think there is a body part such as a rear quarter or fender well that is factory consistent to visually use for a reference point. Having said that, I'm convenience that the rear-end in my 2012 Shelby GT500 is not aligned correctly because the right rear tire and wheels is flush with the fender well while the left rear sticks out past the fender well by about .5 to .65" which is very noticeably. I wonder what the factory tolerance is for the drivetrain alignment. Anyone know where we might find those specifications. The car is factory stock other than a set of 50th Anniversary Alcoa wheels.
I don't think there is a body part such as a rear quarter or fender well that is factory consistent to visually use for a reference point. Having said that, I'm convenience that the rear-end in my 2012 Shelby GT500 is not aligned correctly because the right rear tire and wheels is flush with the fender well while the left rear sticks out past the fender well by about .5 to .65" which is very noticeably. I wonder what the factory tolerance is for the drivetrain alignment. Anyone know where we might find those specifications. The car is factory stock other than a set of 50th Anniversary Alcoa wheels.
Last edited by silvercreek; 10/18/16 at 08:56 AM.
10/18/16 | 09:08 AM
#29
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Joined: August 31, 2016
Posts: 38
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I am mainly asking this question because my car is still covered by a 100k mile warranty. If there is a fix for it I would rather take that route first. If there is no warranty correction to be made then I will consider other alternatives. Thanks for your input.
10/18/16 | 09:57 AM
#30
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Joined: November 12, 2014
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As I have been contemplating new wider wheels and tires, I noticed that the rear wheels/tires sit differently with realtion to the fender directly above. Putting a straight edge vertically across the faces of the tire sidewall (upper and lower), and butting that staight edge to the underside of the fender, this is what I get:
Driver side: inset from fender 7/8", and straight edge is nearly plumb
Pass Side: inset from fender 1 5/16" and straight edge is in-board (toward center of car) at the top of the tire about 1/2".
Knowing this, and standing about 30 ft behind the car, I can see the lean on the pass side (barely), and the difference at the fenders kinda bugs me. I've looked at this at different times, parked in various lots, but it always seems the same. Drove 50 miles today, reparked it in the very same spot in the garage and checked it. Identical measurements.
What's up ?? Is this normal?
I'm looking at wheels/tires that would move the tire sidewall out, and the closer they get to the fender, the more obvious this will be.
It's not IRS, how can the wheels be at different angles when parked on the same flat surface??
Take a look at your 2010 + . How does it sit.
Driver side: inset from fender 7/8", and straight edge is nearly plumb
Pass Side: inset from fender 1 5/16" and straight edge is in-board (toward center of car) at the top of the tire about 1/2".
Knowing this, and standing about 30 ft behind the car, I can see the lean on the pass side (barely), and the difference at the fenders kinda bugs me. I've looked at this at different times, parked in various lots, but it always seems the same. Drove 50 miles today, reparked it in the very same spot in the garage and checked it. Identical measurements.
What's up ?? Is this normal?
I'm looking at wheels/tires that would move the tire sidewall out, and the closer they get to the fender, the more obvious this will be.
It's not IRS, how can the wheels be at different angles when parked on the same flat surface??
Take a look at your 2010 + . How does it sit.
10/18/16 | 07:26 PM
#34
Cobra Member
Joined: August 27, 2007
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 26
From: Southern Al
It will be less hassle to fix it yourself.
