2010-2014 Mustang Information on The S197 {GenII}

Power seat died

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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 03:47 PM
  #21  
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I found the switch on Group 1 Auto Parts for $101. Seems like a decent price and they have it in stock.
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 09:13 AM
  #22  
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So I checked last night and the seat makes the same loud sounds when I am sitting in the seat moving it, and when there is no weight in the seat and I move it. Kinda makes me think the motor is going out.

Matthew
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 11:44 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Matt's 95 Stang
So I checked last night and the seat makes the same loud sounds when I am sitting in the seat moving it, and when there is no weight in the seat and I move it. Kinda makes me think the motor is going out.

Matthew
Does it also make the same noise going up and down?
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 03:54 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by TomServo92
I found the switch on Group 1 Auto Parts for $101. Seems like a decent price and they have it in stock.
did you get a part number by any chance??
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Glenn
did you get a part number by any chance??
Yes.

Link to power seat switch
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 08:19 PM
  #26  
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Guys, these switches are not very complicated. It's pretty easy to fix them if it's not just cracked. I would take the switch apart and see why the contacts are not working. Sometimes they can just be cleaned up.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by AlsCobra
Guys, these switches are not very complicated. It's pretty easy to fix them if it's not just cracked. I would take the switch apart and see why the contacts are not working. Sometimes they can just be cleaned up.
Thanks. I'll give that a try before ordering a new one. I remember doing the same thing on power window switches on my '92.
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 07:36 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by TomServo92
Does it also make the same noise going up and down?
Not nearly as loud as back and forth. I hear a slight hum when up and down but thats it.

Matthew
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 07:57 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Matt's 95 Stang

Not nearly as loud as back and forth. I hear a slight hum when up and down but thats it.

Matthew
The hum sounds normal.
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 09:34 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TomServo92
The hum sounds normal.
Thats what I was thinking too. Makes me wonder what is "normal" for the power seats to sound like vs what they sound like when they are on their way out.

Matthew
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 02:52 PM
  #31  
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I took the switch out and it's pretty complicated with lots of little metal parts. I just decided screw it and ordered a new one.
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Old Dec 27, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #32  
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The switch came in. No luck. I'm at a loss. I've swapped fuses around and no luck. I can't believe all three motors would fail at the same time. It has to be a power issue but I can't see any cut, worn or pinched wiring. No loose connectors either.
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 09:49 AM
  #33  
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I found the power seat wiring diagrams here on TMS. I guess I'll start at each of the motors and trace backwards through the harness to find where I'm losing power.
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 04:28 PM
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I was able to unhook the seat bottom where I could get to the motors and wiring harness. Using a volt sensor, I was able to determine that power is getting to the motors. I also was able to tell that the motor that controls the up/down of the front of the seat actually "clicks" once when the switch is pushed up or down. I also noted that the motor is hot to the touch (the other two are not). Could one bad motor lock up the whole system?
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 04:57 PM
  #35  
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Looking at the wiring diagram, when the switches are in the neutral position (center), both wires going to the motors are grounded. Depending on which way the switch is pressed, one wire or the other is tied to power causing the motor to run either clockwise or counter-clockwise. So, if the motor is hot when the switch is in the neutral position, power is being applied to it somehow. It does it with both switches so I don't think the problem lies there. I must have a short somewhere in the wiring. I'm no electrician so anyone please jump in and correct my assumptions if they are incorrect.
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 04:59 AM
  #36  
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I can't help you any . I wonder if you can order just one motor and not the whole rack? I'm happy my up and down motor went bad a few months before my Warranty expired . My dealer ordered the whole rack when just one of the motors were bad. I don't know if the dealer did it this way to save time on trouble shooting or not. Good Luck.
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 06:23 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by David Young
I can't help you any . I wonder if you can order just one motor and not the whole rack? I'm happy my up and down motor went bad a few months before my Warranty expired . My dealer ordered the whole rack when just one of the motors were bad. I don't know if the dealer did it this way to save time on trouble shooting or not. Good Luck.
From what I can tell it has to be ordered as a unit at about $300+. I talked to an electrician and he said it has to be a short. I'm going to start pealing back the tape and see if I can find it.
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TomServo92
From what I can tell it has to be ordered as a unit at about $300+. I talked to an electrician and he said it has to be a short. I'm going to start pealing back the tape and see if I can find it.
You're a better electrician and more patient than I. Curious to see what you figure out on this still, as I'm still waiting on doing anything with mine but thinking my options are going to be a salvaged part from a '05 and up car or a new one.
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 03:04 PM
  #39  
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Well crap. Using a multimeter, I verified that none of the motor leads were shorted (i.e. had power on them in the default state). I also verified that each motor lead had power on them when the correct switch is activated. The really odd thing is that first thing this morning, the rear motor worked briefly and then stopped. I'm really baffled.
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by TomServo92
Well crap. Using a multimeter, I verified that none of the motor leads were shorted (i.e. had power on them in the default state). I also verified that each motor lead had power on them when the correct switch is activated. The really odd thing is that first thing this morning, the rear motor worked briefly and then stopped. I'm really baffled.


Ground issue?
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