Etnix

Just curious how much some of you think I could get this car for? what should I offer and where should I draw the line and force the dealer to come to me?
I need this car around 30,000 to meet the payment I desire.
I'm carrying a decent amount over on my last vehicle so need the best deal possible, as you can see I'm trying to find a low optioned premium GT.

http://www.inventory.ford.com/services/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=1ZVBP8CF3D5236117

I'm carrying a decent amount over on my last vehicle so need the best deal possible, as you can see im trying to find a low optioned premium GT.

AzPete

Does not open for me.....

Etnix

http://www.inventory.ford.com/services/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=1ZVBP8CF3D5236117

Etnix

Its a Deep Impact Blue GT Premium MSRP 38,610

401A
Reverse SS/Security Package
3.73 limited slip axle
Comfort Package
19" Wheels
Rear Camera

AzPete

I doubt the dealer will come down $8000 or "come to you" for the sale. Plenty of buyers out there and dealers are not getting desperate to deal. Might want to look for even less of an optioned car. How much are you carrying over from your current vehicle?

Xar

Mine is optioned close to this, dealer came down only 1500, then I got 500 in rebates... Where I live there are 3 ford dealers. Only one had a 2013 GT. The same dealer I bought mine from had a boss 302 school bus yellow... I wanted that but they had it listed at 10k over MSRP and weren't going to budge....

Etnix

I agree , I am also considering this one its 1000 cheaper and adding upgraded gears later on.
If the dealer will take off a bit. I can also get xplan and or the 750 coupon.
Im carrying 10,000 on my 09 F150.


http://www.inventory.ford.com/services/inventory/WindowSticker.pdf?vin=1ZVBP8CF8D5232144

AzPete

Just wondering....will you get financing carrying that much over? Even at the $30,000 price you want, add out the door dollars and your looking at $42,000+ on a $38,000 car. Just seems a bit of a bad deal all around but it is your thing.

Etnix

I agree..its a horrible deal but so is owing 28 on a 09 F150 about to roll out of warranty. At some point Ill have to eat it but it seems easier every few years to find a great deal and just swap into something else.

det97

At the end of the model year I could see that happening. I got my vert for 7k off. But with a newish design, I would bet it would be very difficult.

gruiz_06

I had to get rid of my fiancé s car to be able to get my mustang, which had 4000 in negative equity. All I wanted was a base auto 5.0, which was only about 32500. Dont get me wrong the new 13's are nice, but I cared more to have a 5.0, than a new 13' v6 premium performance package. Because realistically speaking there was no way I was going to get a 13' gt at the price I needed which was around that same 30k price to get the payment I can afford. So I opted for a 12' gt base auto in performance white, and coming from a 04' v6, I couldnt be happier...

Snoopy49

Window Sticker

blackbullitt

i can't see the window stickers, but i will tell you i really dont think they will come down to 30k. i think you best idea is to get the coupon like you have, then get the rebates in order for example i got both added up to $1,750.then try and get a car with less options. a premium car at x plan would be around 31,500 i think. i bought my car last week at $125 over invoice so you can get good deals, but 8k is a ton of money good luck.

GreenCars

If you want to check window stickers go to http://researchmaniacs.com/Ford/Trac...CarOrders.html Put in the Vin.. and you will get the sticker easier than the previous link.

Bucko

If you "roll over" into a new deal every few years (especially if warranty issues are a concern), you should think seriously about leasing. This way, you lease for the warranty period (never lease beyond the warranty period of the vehicle), you get a new vehicle every 2 to 3 years, and you don't have a roll over amount added to the contract (negative dollars).

I personally do not buy new. I buy the 2 year trade in/lease returns, and save on the instant depreciation that happens when you buy new.

There's pros and cons to every situation. In your case, loosing hard earned money to get into that new Mustang is killing you. Your truck is upsidedown in what you owe to what it's worth, and your stepping into a new vehicle. The credit institutions love you! And what's really going to **** you off is that your truck trade-in will sell for more than they'll give you on trade. A loose-loose situation for you all around.

GreenCars

If you place a large money down on a smart lease (red Carpet Lease) is there any pitfalls? Do you lose that investment at the end of the 3 years? I was told a Smart lease you built or have equity, is this true or am I getting smoke up my B*tt?

Bucko

Not sure of the details on a "red carpet" lease. I used to travel quite a lot when I worked for Siemens....because of this, I worried that my wife would get stranded on the road with a downed vehicle. She always liked BMW, so we leased one. Been doing that for her ever since. We never have to put any money down (other than tax, tag stuff). We lease for 2 to 3 years, and her maintenance is covered as well (oil changes, brakes, etc). Now that I don't travel, we still do this, as there is no money out of our pocket, and she gets a new one every 2 to 3 years. Payment wise, it's been close to the same for the past 8 years now (we've always set a payment limit; if the dealer could not meet it, we planned to turn in the vehicle and walk away. This hasn't happened yet).

Maybe that red carpet lease works the same way, meaning when you return the car, you step into a new one and just pay tax and tag?

GreenCars

Yes, your sound like the standard lease. pay to use contract. I was told the smart lease is like this. 29K car, 11 down, Smart Leasing 18K, after 6 years at lets say 225 per month at .9% you pay another 6K. At the end of 3 year the balloon is now 12K but the car is worth let say 17K at the end the 5K is your money you can use to down pay on a new car or put towards what you owe on the existing. Now after spelling it out sound like I not only pay the monthly I lose 1/2 of what I put into the car to bring it to 18K Of course a 3 year old 30K Mustang with 30K miles should yield what 22K? This is why I am on the fense to lease vs buy.

ckaven

your best bet is to get a 2012. They dont look bad at all. Dealers are having a hard time getting rid of the 2012s so you may be able to get that much off.

Bucko

Still not sure I follow that smart lease thing. Are you saying you lease the car for 6 years? If so, a bad idea, as the warranty is way past, and for 3 years, you're paying for repairs on a car you don't "own". Equity or not, I won't lease a vehicle past it's warranty.
You mention balloon payments at lease end; again, nothing I would do!

In my wife's case, the first lease cost us a $1500.00 down payment, plus tax and tag fees. After the 3 year lease term was up, we returned it, and leased another new model. No down payment this time, as BMW (at least the dealer we use) has a "BMW loyalty" thing, where the down payment is waved.

Should this change, we'd most likely walk away when we return the vehicle, as I don't like to make a down payment on a vehicle I'm not buying. I did it once, hated myself for it initialy, but felt it was alright since we got (and have been getting) free maintenance on the vehicles during the lease contract timeframe. Now that "free maintenance" is another subject; since I never plan to buy the car after the lease, it's no problem, but on a purchase with free maintenance, it's a problem. BMW only changes the oil every 10K or something like 6 months, whichever comes first. They never change the automatic or rear end fluid on their dime, as they say it's "lifetime"

We all know there's no such thing as "lifetime fluid". But again, since it's a lease, and I'm giving their car back to them after the contract ends, I don't care. I also don't think I'd ever buy a used/lease return vehicle unless I can pull up the service records and verify the maintenance was performed more often (what I call "old school" type maintenance). Doesn't need oil changes every 3K, but 10K is pushing it IMO.