Oil and Lube
6/29/14, 05:04 AM
#21
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The problem is many if not most track pack GT owners never reach those engine conditions/temperatures. They just buy it for bragging rights and never hit a track. They run the 50 but mostly wind up sitting in traffic or driving a freeway or running to 7/11. lol
So just like Owners Manuals/Maintenance Guide typically have two schedules: "for normal usage" and "for special operating conditions (or heavy duty usage)", owners should also pay attention to their driving circumstances and adjust accordingly.
fwiw, Blackstone said Motorcraft semi-synth 5w-20's "viscosity was in the 5w-20 range" with 5681 miles on the oil.
6/29/14, 05:38 AM
#22
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The reason for the heavier viscosity for the track pack GTs is to withstand the higher heat from extended duration high rev racing at a track.
The problem is many if not most track pack GT owners never reach those engine conditions/temperatures. They just buy it for bragging rights and never hit a track. They run the 50 but mostly wind up sitting in traffic or driving a freeway or running to 7/11. lol
The problem is many if not most track pack GT owners never reach those engine conditions/temperatures. They just buy it for bragging rights and never hit a track. They run the 50 but mostly wind up sitting in traffic or driving a freeway or running to 7/11. lol
6/29/14, 07:22 AM
#23
Cobra Member
I'll save some people the trouble of posting. Use the search on the forum there's many an oil thread floating around here, especially about cars using the 5w50Jazz, I don't have a track pack, so mine calls for 5/20 but I use 5/30 for a bit more protection since I drive it hard.
I use pennzoil ultra (now called ultra platinum and made from natural gas). I actually just filled her up with the new natural gas version, local pepboys JUST got them in. Next to Amsoil, I think it's the best synthetic based on numerous uoa's. People also like the Ford oil which I guess is ok, but shows a lot of shearing on tests.
For filters I usually use mobile 1 bc it's easy to get. However it isn't my favorite. The media is VERY dense and "could" obstruct flow and/or pressure, which in turn could affect VTC. I've always been a big fan of napa gold filters (made by wix). Royal Purple also makes a great filter (although I'd stay away from their oil, used to use it...long story).
Last edited by typesredline; 6/29/14 at 07:45 AM.
6/29/14, 07:29 AM
#24
Cobra Member
No problem and I mean no harm by it. Usually people on here go crazy when another oil thread gets started. I'm preferable to royal purple oil and motorcraft filters myself but I just have an 03 mach, 04 v6 and 95 GT so I don't have anything newer to know who even makes a 5w50
Prior to muscle, I was into the import "scene". Builds, tuning, you name it. But not civics. Supra's, NSX's, etc. And my personal RSX Type S. I SWORE by royal purple for oil. Until I started seeing catastrophic engine failures. GRANTED these cars had a ton of hp, and were driven hard. But the oil broke down rapidly after about 2k miles of normal daily driving. It would be fantastic, then fall on its face. Cars were burning excessive oil and I was loosing rod bearings. Turns out upon breakdown that the oil was micro polishing the cylinder walls and causing the oil burn past the rings. All of the cross hatching was gone, consistently on all of the motors. Once we fixed them and swapped the oil in all the cars, the issues stopped and never came back. At one point I was burning 1.5 qts every 750 miles in the RSX.
Now on a normal car, these might not be problems, and RP may have changed things over the years, idk. I am just personally terrified of ever using it again.
Last edited by typesredline; 6/29/14 at 08:15 AM.
6/29/14, 07:31 AM
#25
Cobra Member
Jazz. Ford would have a hard time voiding the warranty on you car for using a different weight. The internal components are the same as cars that they say to use 5/20 on.
6/29/14, 07:34 AM
#26
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Royal Purple makes 5w50. I'll probably use Motorcraft for the first oil change and then switch to RP on the second change.
That said, I'm now a little over 1000 kms, and my oil life monitor, which I preset to 80% when I picked up the car, is still only at 76%. When are you guys doing you first change?
That said, I'm now a little over 1000 kms, and my oil life monitor, which I preset to 80% when I picked up the car, is still only at 76%. When are you guys doing you first change?
6/29/14, 07:36 AM
#27
Cobra Member
It's not a bad thing, it's just a thing. If Motorcraft oil shears more than other brands, then the Mobil 1 or pennzoil or whatever brand full synthetic you use is going to degrade more slowly. The rate of shear is the point: if another oil shears down to a 40W over the same distance, the oil isn't doing the same thing in the engine that the motorcraft oil is. It's simply an adjustment of the starting and ending weights that the oil shows when used in the engine. Using the lower weight is a better approximation of what the motorcraft oil will do in your engine, but with better protection and shear resistance and viscosity retention. It should be said however, that the replacement oil does need to be a PAO-based lubricant.
If you buy a 50w or any weight for that matter, it should stay as close to that as possible during the allotted time/miles.
6/29/14, 07:47 AM
#28
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I might as well explain my "experience" and "opinion" on royal purple.
Prior to muscle, I was into the import "scene". Builds, tuning, you name it. But not civics. Supra's, nsx's, etc. And my personal RSX type S. I SWORE by royal purple for oil. Until I started see catastrophic engine failures. GRANTED these cars had a ton of hp, and were driven hard. But the oil broke down rapidly after about 2k miles of normal daily driving. It would be fantastic, then fall on its face. Cars were burning excessive oil and I was loosing rod bearings. Once we swapped the oil in all the cars, the issues stopped.
Now on a normal car, these might not be problems, and RP may have chafed things over the years, idk. I am just personally terrified of ever using it again.
Prior to muscle, I was into the import "scene". Builds, tuning, you name it. But not civics. Supra's, nsx's, etc. And my personal RSX type S. I SWORE by royal purple for oil. Until I started see catastrophic engine failures. GRANTED these cars had a ton of hp, and were driven hard. But the oil broke down rapidly after about 2k miles of normal daily driving. It would be fantastic, then fall on its face. Cars were burning excessive oil and I was loosing rod bearings. Once we swapped the oil in all the cars, the issues stopped.
Now on a normal car, these might not be problems, and RP may have chafed things over the years, idk. I am just personally terrified of ever using it again.
I also come from the import world, Subaru's mostly. But around here, Amsoil is the oil of choice for them. I never used it, having seen similar failures to what you've seen with RP. In one case, a relgigiously serviced turbo engine let go, and when we pulled apart the enging all the bath areas were coated in a thick green sludge that was slightly tacky to the touch. In my Legacy I had issues with oil loss with Mobil1 (known issue in Turbo Scoobies with Mobil1) and ended up running Subaru's own Synthetic, and it now doesn't burn a drop at 100,000kms.
I saw that new Pennzoil Ultra and it got me interested. Do you have any info on it comparing it to other oils out there?
6/29/14, 07:50 AM
#29
Cobra Member
Royal Purple makes 5w50. I'll probably use Motorcraft for the first oil change and then switch to RP on the second change. That said, I'm now a little over 1000 kms, and my oil life monitor, which I preset to 80% when I picked up the car, is still only at 76%. When are you guys doing you first change?
6/29/14, 08:10 AM
#30
Cobra Member
Of course right after I typed my last post I see this. I also come from the import world, Subaru's mostly. But around here, Amsoil is the oil of choice for them. I never used it, having seen similar failures to what you've seen with RP. In one case, a relgigiously serviced turbo engine let go, and when we pulled apart the enging all the bath areas were coated in a thick green sludge that was slightly tacky to the touch. In my Legacy I had issues with oil loss with Mobil1 (known issue in Turbo Scoobies with Mobil1) and ended up running Subaru's own Synthetic, and it now doesn't burn a drop at 100,000kms. I saw that new Pennzoil Ultra and it got me interested. Do you have any info on it comparing it to other oils out there?
I filled the first time with the Ultra in 5/20 (weight choice was just bc it was the first change). This time (just did my second change last week) I used the ultra platinum which is the natural gas one. One store still had the old ultra but another one had just gotten the new ultra platinum stuff and I wanted to try it in 5/30 (the permanent weight she will see). So I drove.
All I know about it is that it is the same outstanding formula and add packs as the old ultra. But now it's derived from gas, not a crude oil. Which is a first of its kind. So the base which makes up the majority of the oil is completely clear and "pure" which gives it less impurities than a typical full synthetic. They claim that pistons will be 40% cleaner over even their own ultra.
What's EXTREMELY interesting is that people are reporting that at even 5k miles, the new ultra platinum still comes out clear-ish as opposed to black.
6/29/14, 11:16 AM
#33
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Thread Starter
OK guys now you all have me wondering. I could use 5w20,30,40 or 50? What about 20w50?
When I was on a mission for a 2014 Challenger SRT8. They said I could only use Pennzoil. Something about the weight and type of oil???? Well Pennzoil had foaming problems for years but they where suppose to take care of that??
Filters anyone?
I have tried allot of them Form K&N really crape but I should have known by where they are made LOL.
Thank you all this is great information. There is so much marketing crap out that it is a tough decision sometimes..
That is why this Forum is so Great..
When I was on a mission for a 2014 Challenger SRT8. They said I could only use Pennzoil. Something about the weight and type of oil???? Well Pennzoil had foaming problems for years but they where suppose to take care of that??
Filters anyone?
I have tried allot of them Form K&N really crape but I should have known by where they are made LOL. Thank you all this is great information. There is so much marketing crap out that it is a tough decision sometimes..
That is why this Forum is so Great..
6/29/14, 11:48 AM
#34
Cobra Member
OK guys now you all have me wondering. I could use 5w20,30,40 or 50? What about 20w50? When I was on a mission for a 2014 Challenger SRT8. They said I could only use Pennzoil. Something about the weight and type of oil???? Well Pennzoil had foaming problems for years but they where suppose to take care of that?? Filters anyone? I have tried allot of them Form K&N really crape but I should have known by where they are made LOL. Thank you all this is great information. There is so much marketing crap out that it is a tough decision sometimes.. That is why this Forum is so Great..
I have tried allot of them Form K&N really crape but I should have known by where they are made LOL. Thank you all this is great information. There is so much marketing crap out that it is a tough decision sometimes.. That is why this Forum is so Great..I wouldn't worry about Pennzoil. Their quality is top notch these days and IMO surpassed even Mobile 1.
For filter, I'd stay with either Napa Gold (Wix), M1, or Royal Purple.
Last edited by typesredline; 6/29/14 at 11:50 AM.
6/29/14, 12:08 PM
#35
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Like all of you, I trusted Ford with 10's of thousands of my hard earned dollars and bought a new Mustang from them.
Unlike many of you, I continue to trust Ford's Owners Manual and their recommended products.
Along with only using the recommended Motorcraft semi-synth 5w-20, I have only used FRPP air filters and Motorcraft FL-820-S oil filters.
Blackstone said "and low insolubles and silicon show good oil and air filtration" and concluded "Nice engine at 26,047 miles.".
But by all means, ignore Ford's deep bench of engineers, and Blackstone's positive verification, and continue on your merry path of trusting your engine to internet oil experts.
Unlike many of you, I continue to trust Ford's Owners Manual and their recommended products.
Along with only using the recommended Motorcraft semi-synth 5w-20, I have only used FRPP air filters and Motorcraft FL-820-S oil filters.
Blackstone said "and low insolubles and silicon show good oil and air filtration" and concluded "Nice engine at 26,047 miles.".
But by all means, ignore Ford's deep bench of engineers, and Blackstone's positive verification, and continue on your merry path of trusting your engine to internet oil experts.
6/29/14, 06:46 PM
#37
Cobra Member
Like all of you, I trusted Ford with 10's of thousands of my hard earned dollars and bought a new Mustang from them. Unlike many of you, I continue to trust Ford's Owners Manual and their recommended products. Along with only using the recommended Motorcraft semi-synth 5w-20, I have only used FRPP air filters and Motorcraft FL-820-S oil filters. Blackstone said "and low insolubles and silicon show good oil and air filtration" and concluded "Nice engine at 26,047 miles.". But by all means, ignore Ford's deep bench of engineers, and Blackstone's positive verification, and continue on your merry path of trusting your engine to internet oil experts.
This is no different than someone that uses a better quality cooking oil or someone who chooses a better quality car wax or someone that spends top dollar on the latest TV. Would you be entertained watching TV on a smaller walmart brand? Does the olive oil keep food from sticking? Does the auto zone brand wax shine? Sure. But the panasonic zt60 has a much better picture, more features, and will last longer. And that sunflower oil has a higher boiling point, so it won't burn and ruin the food. And that mags ultimate wax protects better and has a deeper, wet shine.
It boils down to good vs better.
Last edited by typesredline; 6/29/14 at 06:54 PM.
6/29/14, 07:54 PM
#38
Of course right after I typed my last post I see this.
I also come from the import world, Subaru's mostly. But around here, Amsoil is the oil of choice for them. I never used it, having seen similar failures to what you've seen with RP. In one case, a relgigiously serviced turbo engine let go, and when we pulled apart the enging all the bath areas were coated in a thick green sludge that was slightly tacky to the touch. In my Legacy I had issues with oil loss with Mobil1 (known issue in Turbo Scoobies with Mobil1) and ended up running Subaru's own Synthetic, and it now doesn't burn a drop at 100,000kms.
I saw that new Pennzoil Ultra and it got me interested. Do you have any info on it comparing it to other oils out there?
6/29/14, 08:15 PM
#39
Cobra Member
I've seen that argument. Diesel semi trucks run 24/7 so the oil must be good right? It's made by Shell, just like pennzoil. Idk. Never used it personally. Seems good in theory however that does start to go outside the box like cdynaco was implying.
6/29/14, 11:24 PM
#40
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Mobile 1 is Mobile none to me. Mobile uses paraffin wax in the oils and It is good but it is better suited for woman's hands than in oil LOL.
There is allot of differences in the oil tears. Just like there is allot of differences in Fuel tears. I have always trusted the auto manufactures engineers in that they want the car to keep running at its best. Ford is one of the only car company's that support Racing. Most others do not. That was one of the reasons for my new GT.
What do you all use for Transmission fluid and differential fluid??
There is allot of differences in the oil tears. Just like there is allot of differences in Fuel tears. I have always trusted the auto manufactures engineers in that they want the car to keep running at its best. Ford is one of the only car company's that support Racing. Most others do not. That was one of the reasons for my new GT.
What do you all use for Transmission fluid and differential fluid??