8 quarts should be correct. I believe the track pack cars use ~8.5 as a result of the oil cooling equipment.

Miles between changes depends a lot on how the car is driven. If I do 800 track miles, I change it. Street only - 5-8k miles should be no problem

 

Thanks, seems like everything is the same as the 4.6. Just more oil.

 

Stickied.

 

You have to manually reset the OLM. I have been doing my oil changes at 7,500 miles but I'm going to extend mine to the 10k mark or once a year which ever comes first. I am going to use Royal Purple oil filters and Mobil 1 fully synthetic extended performance 5W 30 oil.

OP, what brand oil filter you looking for?

 

I didn't see anyone mention it, but when you take the old filter off make sure the gasket came off too and isn't stuck to the engine.

 

Amen to that brother. You don't want that o ring stuck up there.

 

I'm doing the one year or go by the OLM. My car is not a daily driver. I currently have around 6,000 miles on this oil change and the one year mark for this oil change is at the beginning of March so I doubt I drive the car until then since it's put up for the winter. The oil still looks pretty clean looking at this mileage.

It does take 8 qts.

Wayne

 

Thanks Kona, I'm probably just going to go with the motorcraft filter.


It's the little things that can make a big difference, thanks I'll remember that!

Thanks, after I do this oil change I'm probably going to shoot for around the 7K mark for the next change.

 

Well the first oil change is done, went smooth!

 

you're welcome

 

Nice job! After the first 3,000 miles I've been doing my changes at about 7,500 miles. I put her away due to the cold weather and salty roads, but should be hitting my 3rd oil change not long after I put her back on the road this spring.

Don't forget that the new oil filter doesn't need to be cranked down on real hard when you tighten it. Just hand tighten it firmly, and if you're not familiar with oil changes or the car just turn it on and get some oil pumping through the filter. You'll see it dripping immediately if it's not on there right.

 

ALL of your oil and filter questions will be answered here. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

I'll throw in a couple of generic tips...
Years ago, a mechanic friend gave me two tips that I have always followed:

1. fill the new filter with oil once or twice before installing (it will soak up the oil, and then the car spends less time at low oil pressure on the first start-up) also wipe the seal with a drop or two of fresh oil (as others have mentioned)

2. Hand tighten the oil filter (pretty much as tight as you can, making sure you can still loosen it without any tools). This will allow removal at the next oil change without need of a filter wrench.

I have never had a filter leak, or fail, and I have rarely needed anything but my hands to remove a filter.

Interestingly, I changed my 5.0 at 5,000 miles, and was able to remove the original filter by hand. It was not ultra-tight.

The part of the process that I need to figure out if I can improve is that plastic panel - it sits at an angle when slid all the way back, and I got oil all over it when draining the pan, and also spilled oil on the steering rack / frame when removing the filter.

Too bad they didn't take a page from their SUV division - I also have an 08 Mercury Mountaineer with a 4.6, and it has these cool little plastic curved pieces bolted to the frame near the oil pan bolt and filter, so that when you remove either, the oil is directed down and not on to any parts of the vehicle - very clever, actually.

 

Subscribe to NAPA.com to get their weekly sales - they have good deals on Mobil One from time to time and they also carry the 5W50 which is hard to find anywhere else - Usually around $5 a quart - a lot better that the $9 a quart for Motorcraft.

Scott

 

Thanks, it's a good feeling knowing you hand poured the oil into your engine :-)

 

thanks for info!

 

is it indeed 8 quarts for a NON-track pack GT?

I was under the impression only the track pack cars took 8 due to the oil cooler.

 

Yes. 8 for non-track pack, 8.5 for track pack.

 

Perhaps if this is going to be a stickied thread, we should at least have the right use of "to/too" in the subject line?

A few more tips from my experience doing it:

• It is absolutely inevitable that you'll have oil end up all over when you unscrew the filter. Best way I've found to combat this is wrapping a gallon ziploc bag around the filter as you untwist it; this will capture 90%+ of the oil.
• Don't overtighten the oil drain plug. 19 lb/ft is all that's recommended. Pretty much every torque rating for our cars there is posted here: https://themustangsource.com/forums/...2/#post6171533
• Or, get a Fumato Oil Drain Valve and never remove the drain plug again.
• Advance Auto Parts constantly has oil change specials on full synthetic oils with high quality filters (usually K&N or Purolator PureOne) for around $32. Much as I detest ever walking through the doors, Walmart has 5 quart jugs of a couple different synthetic oils for usually about $23-25 too. Both good options.

 

I just got done doing my second oil change on my car today. Car had 11,349 miles on it with 6,660 miles on the oil change. Next Saturday would have been a year since I had changed it last.

I used Motorcraft 5W-20 oil and the Motorcraft FL500s filter which is what I used the last time. Oil was still very clean looking and looking down the oil fill hole in the valve cover, everything is spotless.

When I went to get my car from where it was stored at, the display told me to change the oil soon and the OLM was at 2%. When I parked it a few weeks ago, the OLM was at 8% so it lost 6% just sitting there.

I plan on continuing to use the OLM or the one year/10,000 mile oil changes.

Wayne