Oil change Blue Mtn. vs Mobil 1 full synthetic WOW!!
GT Member
Joined: April 3, 2014
Posts: 106
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Ok, silly question.
My 2013 has 13,000 on it. I will have the oil changed for the second time. I've let the dealer change it and I can't remember what they put in it but I'm sure it's whatever is recommended by Ford.
Is there really any true benefit to changing to synthetic oil? I'm guessing i'll never make 50K on this car before it's traded off for a newer Mustang or something similar.
I don't doubt the full synthetic is better. Just wondering what it does for us in the short run.
And so far....no engine tick!
My 2013 has 13,000 on it. I will have the oil changed for the second time. I've let the dealer change it and I can't remember what they put in it but I'm sure it's whatever is recommended by Ford.
Is there really any true benefit to changing to synthetic oil? I'm guessing i'll never make 50K on this car before it's traded off for a newer Mustang or something similar.
I don't doubt the full synthetic is better. Just wondering what it does for us in the short run.
And so far....no engine tick!
GT Member
Joined: August 28, 2014
Posts: 132
Likes: 1
[QUOTE=Ace Red;6893953]Ok, silly question.
My 2013 has 13,000 on it. I will have the oil changed for the second time. I've let the dealer change it and I can't remember what they put in it but I'm sure it's whatever is recommended by Ford.
Is there really any true benefit to changing to synthetic oil? I'm guessing i'll never make 50K on this car before it's traded off for a newer Mustang or something similar.
I don't doubt the full synthetic is better. Just wondering what it does for us in the short run.
You will gain no benifit from switching to an expensive oil if you don't plan to keep the car. That is if you do normal driving and don't track your car. For years my father ran whatever name brand cheep non synthetic oil that was on sale in all his cars and trucks and ran them all 200,000+ miles and that included some real hard towing miles. Personally I think we all overthink this unless you really work your car on the track and plan to keep it for 100,000 plus miles don't waste your money on expensive oil all you will be doing with that expensive oil is making sure the next owner gets an extra 100k out of your old car. There is nothing wrong with the Ford Motorcraft part synthetic oil and it's reasonable to purchase a big plus!
My 2013 has 13,000 on it. I will have the oil changed for the second time. I've let the dealer change it and I can't remember what they put in it but I'm sure it's whatever is recommended by Ford.
Is there really any true benefit to changing to synthetic oil? I'm guessing i'll never make 50K on this car before it's traded off for a newer Mustang or something similar.
I don't doubt the full synthetic is better. Just wondering what it does for us in the short run.
You will gain no benifit from switching to an expensive oil if you don't plan to keep the car. That is if you do normal driving and don't track your car. For years my father ran whatever name brand cheep non synthetic oil that was on sale in all his cars and trucks and ran them all 200,000+ miles and that included some real hard towing miles. Personally I think we all overthink this unless you really work your car on the track and plan to keep it for 100,000 plus miles don't waste your money on expensive oil all you will be doing with that expensive oil is making sure the next owner gets an extra 100k out of your old car. There is nothing wrong with the Ford Motorcraft part synthetic oil and it's reasonable to purchase a big plus!
Mach 1 Member
Joined: February 20, 2005
Posts: 574
Likes: 8
From: SandyEggo
I've never seen an oil related engine failure thread in my over 20 years of being on car and motorcycle forums. (except for running it low or out)
It's all for peace of mind. If you think it's protecting better, you feel better.
With that said, I run Amsoil Signature 5W-30.
It's all for peace of mind. If you think it's protecting better, you feel better.
With that said, I run Amsoil Signature 5W-30.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: August 7, 2006
Posts: 16,113
Likes: 789
From: In Boredom
full sny oil has been proven to show a few HP gain. Its also true that you can go longer between oil changes with a full syn oil than reg oil. There's nothing wrong with reg oil as long as it is changed at proper intervals.
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Joined: August 28, 2014
Posts: 132
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The only way to know what condition your oil is in when it is changed is to send it off for an oil annalis. There are several company's that do this I use Blackstone Labs they will test your oil and see what contaminants are in the oil and at what % or parts per million. Also you should pay the extra few $$ to have them test your used oils TBN or Total Base Number this will tell you how much additive is left in your oil and they can give you a recommendation on how long to run it. I would be willing to bet that 7-8,000 miles is just fine on a non tracked Mustang GT 5.0. The car does have an 8 quart oil pan it is normally aspirated and is not a direct injected engine (DI has a tendency to show lots of fuel in the oil in several UOA tests I have seen) frankly I think the 5.0 V8 is easy on oil compared to several other cars on the street today.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: August 7, 2006
Posts: 16,113
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From: In Boredom
There was a member on here that worked for one of those oil testing places. One thing I remember him stating is that just about any off the shelf non syn oil is good for 5k mile oil changes. He was referring to a car that held 6 qts of oil. I have seen several tests where full syn oil was good for 10k+ or one year.
Cobra Member
Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 1,105
Likes: 18
From: Central Alabama
There was a member on here that worked for one of those oil testing places. One thing I remember him stating is that just about any off the shelf non syn oil is good for 5k mile oil changes. He was referring to a car that held 6 qts of oil. I have seen several tests where full syn oil was good for 10k+ or one year.
My 2000 v6 mustang had 163,000 on it when I traded it. No mechanical engine problems with it ever, and I owned it for ten years.
And my current 08 GT has about 60,000 on it.
I have been meaning to send a sample off for testing out of curiosity. Just haven't done it yet.
Last edited by lowblustang00; Feb 2, 2015 at 09:05 AM.
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Joined: August 29, 2012
Posts: 33
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If your car doesn't require synthetics then running a true synthetic (Redline Royal purple, Amsoil) is a mod in my eyes. If your going to change your oil in 5k or less then run the Mobil, Valvoline synthetics and you will have no problems. If you want to run synthetic the major benefits are longer intervals, maybe some performance and running a longer change cycle to cover the costs. In my Shelby the requirements are to run a true synthetic 5w50(same as the boss or any track related application). The problem is the stock Motorcraft sheers down to a 40 weight oil in short order, also the stealership wants more for that inferior oil. I have been running the Redline and my next change I will try the Amsoil as they now have a signature 5w50 that meets the Shelby specs. The internet has great info on the different weights and how they break down and then you can determine what meets your budget and needs. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...s.php?ubb=cfrm is a great resource to find this info.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: August 7, 2006
Posts: 16,113
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From: In Boredom
Found this in one of the other oil threads.
There have been extensive discussions on oil analysis / recommended changes. I work for Behnke Lubricants and we have an in-house lab (RPM Laboratory). I have done oil analysis on my car since day one and you can view the results:
http://www.beauchampengineering.net/pdf/analysis8.pdf
Just to clear things up:
1.) Ford factory fill well good for 5K, probably 8K, but at that point you have to worry about contaminants circulating too much and fuel dilution making the oil one SAE grade lower.
2.) To make power, Ford and everyone else uses 5W-20, which is great, but when you let fuel dilute it down 1 SAE grade level, it gets weak for supporting loads and may lead to metal on metal contact.
3.) The copper you see in the first 5K miles is NORMAL and a function of copper leaching from the oil cooling system. This is known and listed on any major automotive oil site (try Amsoil or Mobil1 research).
4.) Some metals are part of the additive package, so look to see the report under "Contaminants" before you freak out over levels. Sometimes they're supposed to "be in there".
5.) If you want to do an analysis, PM me and I'll get you a kit with a UPS mailer to send to the lab. I don't get them for free, but I work there, so I can get them quick, easily, and for a fellow Mustang owner...for cost.
6.) I'm not in the business of selling oil or oil analysis, so if you want to find a distributor, I'm going to pass you off to someone else. If you simply need some peace of mind, I hope the posting of my results assists you. If you absolutely need a kit, PM me and I'll help a few, but if it gets nuts, I'm going to direct the PMs to "sales".
Any further questions about oil analysis can be PMed to me. I have all the articles from Amsoil, Mobil1, etc at my disposal from the past 20 years. I'll be glad to post a ton of material, but the message will be lost on those who conflict science with their own personal view. So to keep this simple, just run oil 5K and buy whatever brand makes you comfortable. DO NOT save money on oil at the dollar store or Walmart and expect it to be as good as a major label or Ford factory fill.
Common sense is a MF.
http://www.beauchampengineering.net/pdf/analysis8.pdf
Just to clear things up:
1.) Ford factory fill well good for 5K, probably 8K, but at that point you have to worry about contaminants circulating too much and fuel dilution making the oil one SAE grade lower.
2.) To make power, Ford and everyone else uses 5W-20, which is great, but when you let fuel dilute it down 1 SAE grade level, it gets weak for supporting loads and may lead to metal on metal contact.
3.) The copper you see in the first 5K miles is NORMAL and a function of copper leaching from the oil cooling system. This is known and listed on any major automotive oil site (try Amsoil or Mobil1 research).
4.) Some metals are part of the additive package, so look to see the report under "Contaminants" before you freak out over levels. Sometimes they're supposed to "be in there".
5.) If you want to do an analysis, PM me and I'll get you a kit with a UPS mailer to send to the lab. I don't get them for free, but I work there, so I can get them quick, easily, and for a fellow Mustang owner...for cost.
6.) I'm not in the business of selling oil or oil analysis, so if you want to find a distributor, I'm going to pass you off to someone else. If you simply need some peace of mind, I hope the posting of my results assists you. If you absolutely need a kit, PM me and I'll help a few, but if it gets nuts, I'm going to direct the PMs to "sales".
Any further questions about oil analysis can be PMed to me. I have all the articles from Amsoil, Mobil1, etc at my disposal from the past 20 years. I'll be glad to post a ton of material, but the message will be lost on those who conflict science with their own personal view. So to keep this simple, just run oil 5K and buy whatever brand makes you comfortable. DO NOT save money on oil at the dollar store or Walmart and expect it to be as good as a major label or Ford factory fill.
Common sense is a MF.
legacy Tms Member MEMORIAL Rest In Peace 10/06/2021
Joined: September 16, 2009
Posts: 3,381
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From: Clinton Tennessee
After reading all this 'oil' crap, i've decided to change to 5W-30 in both (2014 Edge Limited and 2011 Mustang) our cars.
Not trying to start another oil debate
Not trying to start another oil debate
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: August 7, 2006
Posts: 16,113
Likes: 789
From: In Boredom
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