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1/9/11, 04:44 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by Liquid
It will be just a standard oil analysis that measures TBN and wear metals. I don't know if you have ever had one done before, but the lab recommends an oil change interval based on how the engine wears, TBN, and a few other measurable parameters such as actual viscosity.
1/9/11, 04:59 PM
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1/9/11, 05:01 PM
#43
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1/9/11, 05:08 PM
#44
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1/9/11, 06:53 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by Liquid
Have you put together a protocol? How often will you analyze? This is awesome.
1/12/11, 10:30 AM
#47
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There's a decent explanation of TBN (total base number) on the same site at http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn.php.
1/16/11, 10:03 AM
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Joe,
Sorry about not following up with your question. I should learn to subscribe to threads.
Anyways, what Chris posted was a short and sweet explanation of what TBN is.
For reference, Amsoil's 0W-20 100% synthetic motor oil has a TBN of 12.1. I can't find Motorcraft's or Mobil1's TBN numbers for their 5W-20 oils to compare, however.
Sorry about not following up with your question. I should learn to subscribe to threads.
Anyways, what Chris posted was a short and sweet explanation of what TBN is.
For reference, Amsoil's 0W-20 100% synthetic motor oil has a TBN of 12.1. I can't find Motorcraft's or Mobil1's TBN numbers for their 5W-20 oils to compare, however.
1/19/11, 01:58 PM
#52
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Joe,
Sorry about not following up with your question. I should learn to subscribe to threads.
Anyways, what Chris posted was a short and sweet explanation of what TBN is.
For reference, Amsoil's 0W-20 100% synthetic motor oil has a TBN of 12.1. I can't find Motorcraft's or Mobil1's TBN numbers for their 5W-20 oils to compare, however.
Sorry about not following up with your question. I should learn to subscribe to threads.
Anyways, what Chris posted was a short and sweet explanation of what TBN is.
For reference, Amsoil's 0W-20 100% synthetic motor oil has a TBN of 12.1. I can't find Motorcraft's or Mobil1's TBN numbers for their 5W-20 oils to compare, however.
1/20/11, 10:52 AM
#53
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I'm a Redline user/dealer. Redline is a true synthetic, many oils like Mobil1, Shell Rotella T Synthetic are two examples are what was mentioned, highly refined petroleum oils with enough crap added to wear the label "synthetic", kind of like how ketchup is considered a vegetable by the Feds.
Mobil 1 has gone through a number of changes, it's not what it was. Remember "Super Syn" and "Tri-Synthetic" labels. They have great marketing, not IMHO a great oil. I've run cars that are known to have some rod-bearing oiling issues under high load--the only ones that ever spun bearings were on Mobil 1........ A friend was using it in his Tahoe and it was drinking a quart every 800-1000 miles. I got him to change, told him I didn't care to what. He picked Syntec.... within that first change, the consumption stopped. The Mobil 1 was burning off, something a good synthetic should not do.
And as for the burn off, seen it myself on my 2001 Camaro. Ran 500 miles on stock, changed it, and in the next 500 saw vapor deposits on the dipstick (this is an LS1, which had M1 has factory fill, no tricks). Before that I had a old Datsun 280ZX-Turbo. Oil cooled turbo only. Oil temp and pressure gauges that were very accurate. Idle oil pressure @ 280 oil temp with 15/50 M1, was HALF what it was with 10/30 Castrol GTX (not even a synthetic) at high temps. That's not good, and the M1 was a heavier oil to boot!
Redline cost a little more, but it's a lot cheaper than an engine, and it's the same stuff that they use to lube jet engines--which turn a few RPM. It's naturally multi-grade and takes less additives to get what you need for a street engine (less to break down). And the film strength superior which is important if a bearing is starved for oil, or on cold starts before you get 100% flow. True synthetic oil films will stretch before breaking. Dino oils tear, more like a paper bag when beat on like that.
Look here's the deal. We all know people who don't change their oil and the car still manages to run... this is one of those subject that we all have an opinion on. If you really don't put the car in a position that you're hard on oil, then pretty much anything will work. But the harder you drive, the more you expect for protection... they aren't all the same.
Mobil 1 has gone through a number of changes, it's not what it was. Remember "Super Syn" and "Tri-Synthetic" labels. They have great marketing, not IMHO a great oil. I've run cars that are known to have some rod-bearing oiling issues under high load--the only ones that ever spun bearings were on Mobil 1........ A friend was using it in his Tahoe and it was drinking a quart every 800-1000 miles. I got him to change, told him I didn't care to what. He picked Syntec.... within that first change, the consumption stopped. The Mobil 1 was burning off, something a good synthetic should not do.
And as for the burn off, seen it myself on my 2001 Camaro. Ran 500 miles on stock, changed it, and in the next 500 saw vapor deposits on the dipstick (this is an LS1, which had M1 has factory fill, no tricks). Before that I had a old Datsun 280ZX-Turbo. Oil cooled turbo only. Oil temp and pressure gauges that were very accurate. Idle oil pressure @ 280 oil temp with 15/50 M1, was HALF what it was with 10/30 Castrol GTX (not even a synthetic) at high temps. That's not good, and the M1 was a heavier oil to boot!
Redline cost a little more, but it's a lot cheaper than an engine, and it's the same stuff that they use to lube jet engines--which turn a few RPM. It's naturally multi-grade and takes less additives to get what you need for a street engine (less to break down). And the film strength superior which is important if a bearing is starved for oil, or on cold starts before you get 100% flow. True synthetic oil films will stretch before breaking. Dino oils tear, more like a paper bag when beat on like that.
Look here's the deal. We all know people who don't change their oil and the car still manages to run... this is one of those subject that we all have an opinion on. If you really don't put the car in a position that you're hard on oil, then pretty much anything will work. But the harder you drive, the more you expect for protection... they aren't all the same.
1/20/11, 01:27 PM
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Yes, I know... point being I was running "factory fill" that came in a lot of LS1's in my LS1.
And I won't run Mobil 1 in anything I own unless I'm low on oil and it's the only available alternative. Period.
And I won't run Mobil 1 in anything I own unless I'm low on oil and it's the only available alternative. Period.
1/21/11, 03:57 AM
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1/21/11, 05:39 AM
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Amsoil and Red Line are very comparable oils. They both do their job exceptionally well. Royal Purple, from what I have seen, is only mediocre. Its not some wonder oil like many people think.
The big difference between Amsoil and Red Line is the basestock they use. Amsoil primarily uses PAO basestock (group IV) and Red Line uses polyolestser (group V) basestock. Other basestock is typically added to give more desireable qualities to the oil, but the percentages are unknown.
Amsoil and Red Line are considered boutique oils, in my eyes at least. What I mean by that is they aren't sold readily in many auto stores you frequent. The best way to get them is by ordering through a dealer for each. Luckily, Sam sells Red Line, and I sell Amsoil
.
The big difference between Amsoil and Red Line is the basestock they use. Amsoil primarily uses PAO basestock (group IV) and Red Line uses polyolestser (group V) basestock. Other basestock is typically added to give more desireable qualities to the oil, but the percentages are unknown.
Amsoil and Red Line are considered boutique oils, in my eyes at least. What I mean by that is they aren't sold readily in many auto stores you frequent. The best way to get them is by ordering through a dealer for each. Luckily, Sam sells Red Line, and I sell Amsoil
.
Last edited by Liquid; 1/21/11 at 06:18 AM.