my strategy was simple. Go to a dealer that has one price. 300 bucks below invoice. No need to barter...and a very fair price. Paul (Karpro) works at that dealer too. I didn't order from Paul though as an fyi. Just went in the week the order banks opened and found the nice sales person that helped me out last year when I was test driving 2010 mustangs.

 

Assuming your sales tax is 3%, you would have paid about 34,100 from the dealer I bought from, OUT THE DOOR. (taxes/titles/dest/fdaf/tags)

 

"Mr. Sales Manager my name is X and I would like to do business with a local dealer if possible. The best deal I have been able to negotiate so far is $300 Under Invoice after all additional Doc and Adm Fees. Can you beat it?"

Can't: "Thank you, maybe next time."

Can: "Thanks, Just hand me off to the hungriest salesman you have and the guy in charge of placing orders if thats not you".

Its a business deal not a war.

DISCLAIMER: Although you asked us not to I cant help but disclose the following.

I worked several dealers that way. $300 Under + $16,500 for my trade was best offer ($17,300 NADA at time of order)

GT Base $30,890 MSRP / Negotiated Price roughly $28,800. Plus any additional rebates.

Although I did get those offers I didnt take them:
I also tried several dealers X-Plan (for which Im eligible). Roughly $150 Over and $17,000 for my trade ($17,300 NADA at time of order) and drive it until my new car gets here.

I find I usually do best working the big dealers "Invoice" and the small dealers "X-Plan" when theirs a trade involved.

 

I have been down that road. If you don't let up and just keep asking for a higher authority, they will cave. It's not carved in stone.

 

Okay, with 7% sales tax you would have paid 35,400 out the door from my dealer.

 

OUCH!

 

thats 2500 off, how is this possible lol and who is your dealer...i need leverage

 

I just told them I could get X-plan at another dealer, would they be willing to match invoice plus holdback and they caved. (I did it through the internet on NADA Guides).....

 

My strategy = charm

 

nice, thx for the advice, found the dealer invoice to be 33 and change add sales tax to it and 35600 is what ill be shooting for, for the out the door price

 

gotta head to work, 3rd shift...meh...but ill update tomorrow after i have a sit down with the dealer...pray for me

 

I am A-Plan, so I don't negotiate for my Fords. However, I can lend the following advice.

1. ALWAYS shop for financing first (unless you are paying cash)
2. ALWAYS take the time to check out online reviews of each dealership first
3. ALWAYS begin negotiations via phone or email first
4. ALWAYS make it clear that you are going to buy a car, the only question is from whom

 

5. NEVER tell them you have a trade when negotiating the price.

 

yep. and you better believe that will be the first or second question they ask

 

I read that advice in the Motley Fool article, which I tried to find. They suggest shopping at all of the ____ dealers within a given area. Long story short, you basically have the internet/phone sales fighting for your business, and then get it in writing, and go from there. Never show your cards, like discounts, trades, or down payments up front. Never negotiate a monthly payment, rather a financed amount.

 

What he said. NEVER, get the best price, THEN, say you have a trade.

 

 

I've tried to follow this thread. If I were to walk into your dealer and order a 2011 Mustang V6 Premium Convertible, Stone Roof, Comfort Package, Boot Cover, and Auto Trans, what would I pay including destination charges and not counting tax, title, and tags?

 

Too much if you walked into the dealership. Get an online or telephone quote.

 

OK, a telephone price.