2010-2014 Mustang Information on The S197 {GenII}

How long till there is a Carbon Brake upgrade for S197 and S550?

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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 06:00 PM
  #21  
laserred38's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER
Yeah, good point about the impact driver. I need one, all I have is a torque wrench right now.
Oh man. You need a cordless impact. I got one last year and it makes every job so much faster!
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 10:50 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER
Yeah, good point about the impact driver. I need one, all I have is a torque wrench right now.
They are worth their weight in gold. I have work out the battery in mine I use It so much
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 09:04 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by laserred38
Oh man. You need a cordless impact. I got one last year and it makes every job so much faster!
Originally Posted by dmichaels
They are worth their weight in gold. I have work out the battery in mine I use It so much
Sold. I will certainly be getting one this season.

What kind do you guys use, what voltage? What kind of tq numbers can it achieve? How long is the battery good for?
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 10:26 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER
Sold. I will certainly be getting one this season. What kind do you guys use, what voltage? What kind of tq numbers can it achieve? How long is the battery good for?
I got a Craftsman, but it was cheap and doesn't have much torque. I would definitely spend the money on a Milwaukee/Makita/Snap-On. Mine is good for small jobs, and I loosen my wheels by hand so that works, but for suspension stuff, I was doing most of it by hand because our cars require 120+ ft/lbs to tighten (and mine didn't have enough torque to break those bolts free).
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 10:26 PM
  #25  
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Oh yeah, mine is a 20v and a full battery charge lasts pretty much all day.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 07:37 AM
  #26  
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This thread has a lot of good information.
From what I've gathered. Full Carbon Ceramic brakes are great and all but you can get by on a lot less for a lot less money and not suffer much, if at all.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 08:55 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Krohn
This thread has a lot of good information.
From what I've gathered. Full Carbon Ceramic brakes are great and all but you can get by on a lot less for a lot less money and not suffer much, if at all.
It's still really expensive at the moment to get Carbon-Ceramic rotors though. A full front setup is ~$6,200, and rotors alone are ~$2340 each. Matching pads are ~$200 for 4. Hats are $300.

So the full setup is $6200 and rotors and pads are $5680.

Lasered, thanks for the info.

Last edited by 5.M0NSTER; Jan 14, 2015 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 09:50 AM
  #28  
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Exclamation

UPDATE:
I spoke to Wilwood tech support/sales today about possibly getting the rotors, hats and pads. I wanted to know if the rotor and pads will fit with my existing Brembo calipers.

The news is not good. The offset on the rotor/hat combo will only work with the Wilwood caliper. It would not center correctly with the OE Brembo caliper.

So since the rotors 75% of the price of the kit it isn't terrible news, but this means a full carbon ceramic brake setup from Wilwood will still cost ~$6k.

Futhermore, I discussed usage and longevity of the rotors. They told me that once the rotors are up to temperature, they outlast metallic rotors by a huge margin. But on the street, the rotors will get chewed up quickly since they don't have a chance to get up to temperature. The pads will start shredding the rotors over extended street use. So the benefit to this setup is exclusively for the track.

So my plan for using the same setup at the track and on the street may not be as cost/time efficient as I thought.

I'll do more digging, and I just wanted to share this with everyone interested.

Last edited by 5.M0NSTER; Jan 14, 2015 at 09:53 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 04:22 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER
UPDATE:
I spoke to Wilwood tech support/sales today about possibly getting the rotors, hats and pads. I wanted to know if the rotor and pads will fit with my existing Brembo calipers.

The news is not good. The offset on the rotor/hat combo will only work with the Wilwood caliper. It would not center correctly with the OE Brembo caliper.

So since the rotors 75% of the price of the kit it isn't terrible news, but this means a full carbon ceramic brake setup from Wilwood will still cost ~$6k.

Futhermore, I discussed usage and longevity of the rotors. They told me that once the rotors are up to temperature, they outlast metallic rotors by a huge margin. But on the street, the rotors will get chewed up quickly since they don't have a chance to get up to temperature. The pads will start shredding the rotors over extended street use. So the benefit to this setup is exclusively for the track.

So my plan for using the same setup at the track and on the street may not be as cost/time efficient as I thought.

I'll do more digging, and I just wanted to share this with everyone interested.
I hope you realize that the stopping power of CCB aren't better then steel? the benefits you get is less fade. I know people that remove the CCB and put steel on because of cost. You can replace Steel four to five times for the same cost of one CCB brake setup.
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Cobra99
I hope you realize that the stopping power of CCB aren't better then steel? the benefits you get is less fade. I know people that remove the CCB and put steel on because of cost. You can replace Steel four to five times for the same cost of one CCB brake setup.
Yup



It's all about fade

Initial braking is almost always limited by the tire not the brakes
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 07:06 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Cobra99
I hope you realize that the stopping power of CCB aren't better then steel? the benefits you get is less fade. I know people that remove the CCB and put steel on because of cost. You can replace Steel four to five times for the same cost of one CCB brake setup.
I do, that's the benefit I was hoping to achieve with this setup while not having to change pads for the track weekends.

What I did not realize before was the on the street CCB will wear faster than steel. It outlasts steel on the track at temperature, but on the street it gets chewed up fast.
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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 05:04 PM
  #32  
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I find that interesting that the ceramic rotors are said to wear faster on the street.

Thinking your best option is a nice impact gun and do some swapping at your track days.

Maybe the solution is track the car much more often so that you can justify leaving track pads in all the time that was my strategy last season and this year too!
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 08:50 AM
  #33  
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Yeah, I think you're right. No way of getting around that for now. I'll get a impact gun and swap pads like I have been.

I suppose it makes sense that CCW rotors wear faster on the street. The system is designed to operate closer to 2000F than at 200F. Friction characteristics must be much better up top than down low. Still sucks though.

Can you imagine spending $75K on a Z28, or $60-70k on GT350R and have to replace $4000 rotors 2 years after buying the car because you like to DD it? Hoping the production setup uses different friction material able to cope with cool brakes to provide better longevity. Then again, these cars aren't meant to be DD.
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 05:32 PM
  #34  
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Agree that if I got a car with CCB stock and daily drove I would be slightly annoyed at spending $$$$$ for new rotors relatively soon! Hopefully most with those cars that ce with them actually use the car at the track
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