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Old 9/14/10, 06:04 PM
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That's good news about your insurer paying for OEM parts. I wouldn't want my car to get fixed with 10 lbs of bondo.
Old 9/15/10, 10:40 AM
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Unhappy

Got my damage estimate this morning from my Ford Dealer’s body shop. Total was $2750, and that’s assuming they can repair the dent in the hood without replacing it. If they have to replace it, it’ll be an additional $1300 plus extra for prep/paint.

A couple of notes:
The A/C condenser got punctured by the fog light as it got pushed in. So, will need a new condenser, + AC system flush/fill, etc.

Body shop mgr said the hood was aluminum (!), and said they could heat it and try to work it back to original shape. He wasn’t sure it would work but said they could try it. He said it’d be a better way to go for minimizing re-paint and preserving originality. I never knew these things had aluminum hoods!

In summary: I wasn’t bothered before but now I am SO depressed. The word “Blend” appears many times in the estimate, which is another way of saying “use orbitals & compound the hell out of parts of your car not even originally damaged.” I feel sick now – this is EXACTLY why I bought a new car, was so I’d know what I have and would not have to look at body compound in door jambs and cracks and crevices. Suckage.

Last edited by Double-EDad; 9/15/10 at 10:50 AM.
Old 9/15/10, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Double-EDad
Got my damage estimate this morning from my Ford Dealer’s body shop. Total was $2750, and that’s assuming they can repair the dent in the hood without replacing it. If they have to replace it, it’ll be an additional $1300 plus extra for prep/paint.

A couple of notes:
The A/C condenser got punctured by the fog light as it got pushed in. So, will need a new condenser, + AC system flush/fill, etc.

Body shop mgr said the hood was aluminum (!), and said they could heat it and try to work it back to original shape. He wasn’t sure it would work but said they could try it. He said it’d be a better way to go for minimizing re-paint and preserving originality. I never knew these things had aluminum hoods!

In summary: I wasn’t bothered before but now I am SO depressed. The word “Blend” appears many times in the estimate, which is another way of saying “use orbitals & compound the hell out of parts of your car not even originally damaged.” I feel sick now – this is EXACTLY why I bought a new car, was so I’d know what I have and would not have to look at body compound in door jambs and cracks and crevices. Suckage.


Man dude, that is brutal.

But just be thankful your car didn't swirve off the road or the car rolled.

She'll look good as new once they fix her up.

Best of luck man.
Old 9/15/10, 12:38 PM
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Upgrade to the HID's and Brembo package. That will give you an advantage against deer at night.
Old 9/15/10, 02:51 PM
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I almost hit one last Thursday....driving my GT home from the dealer....with less than 50 miles on it. I nailed the still not broken in brakes and missed him by inches. Deer suck
Old 9/15/10, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Double-EDad
Got my damage estimate this morning from my Ford Dealer’s body shop. Total was $2750, and that’s assuming they can repair the dent in the hood without replacing it. If they have to replace it, it’ll be an additional $1300 plus extra for prep/paint.

A couple of notes:
The A/C condenser got punctured by the fog light as it got pushed in. So, will need a new condenser, + AC system flush/fill, etc.

Body shop mgr said the hood was aluminum (!), and said they could heat it and try to work it back to original shape. He wasn’t sure it would work but said they could try it. He said it’d be a better way to go for minimizing re-paint and preserving originality. I never knew these things had aluminum hoods!

In summary: I wasn’t bothered before but now I am SO depressed. The word “Blend” appears many times in the estimate, which is another way of saying “use orbitals & compound the hell out of parts of your car not even originally damaged.” I feel sick now – this is EXACTLY why I bought a new car, was so I’d know what I have and would not have to look at body compound in door jambs and cracks and crevices. Suckage.
What body panels are they completely changing ? And where exactly will they have to blend new paint with existing ? Cuz from your pictures, it seems that it is mostly the fender and bumper cover that have to be replaced. As far as the hood is concerned i wouldn't worry about it, if they can't fix it to new like condition , i would guess that they'll have to change it anyway's. Blending old with new paint is an art in itself, it can be done in a way that you couldn't tell it was done. It all comes down to how good your body shop is tackling these kind of repairs and how good they'll spray it, sand and buff it out. And yes these are aluminium hoods.
Was that body shop appointed to you by the insurer ?
Old 9/15/10, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Double-EDad
Got my damage estimate this morning from my Ford Dealer’s body shop. Total was $2750, and that’s assuming they can repair the dent in the hood without replacing it. If they have to replace it, it’ll be an additional $1300 plus extra for prep/paint.

A couple of notes:
The A/C condenser got punctured by the fog light as it got pushed in. So, will need a new condenser, + AC system flush/fill, etc.

Body shop mgr said the hood was aluminum (!), and said they could heat it and try to work it back to original shape. He wasn’t sure it would work but said they could try it. He said it’d be a better way to go for minimizing re-paint and preserving originality. I never knew these things had aluminum hoods!

In summary: I wasn’t bothered before but now I am SO depressed. The word “Blend” appears many times in the estimate, which is another way of saying “use orbitals & compound the hell out of parts of your car not even originally damaged.” I feel sick now – this is EXACTLY why I bought a new car, was so I’d know what I have and would not have to look at body compound in door jambs and cracks and crevices. Suckage.
Judging from the pics it looks like a fender and hood replacement would eliminate any need to blend the paint.
Old 9/15/10, 04:14 PM
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$1300 for the hood? Man, I'd be investigating other hoods. That's crazy talk for an OEM one. Here:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ed-Underside-A

Do that, and pocket the money.
Old 9/15/10, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Fire512
Judging from the pics it looks like a fender and hood replacement would eliminate any need to blend the paint.
I initially thought along the same lines, but now I think blending in this case would refer to the panels adjacent to the newly replaced panels, which will require a full paint job since they will be new, unpainted parts.
Old 9/15/10, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Fire512
Judging from the pics it looks like a fender and hood replacement would eliminate any need to blend the paint.
Exactly wrong. (sorry, not meaning to be a d!ck)

When an estimate says "Blend" on it, it takes the normal paint time for a panel and reduces it in half. This is to paint an adjacent panel. For example: They're replacing the fender, so they're likely blending the door. They'll disassemble the door (RI handle, belt molding, int trim panel, etc) and as they're painting the fender they'll also paint the front part of the door and pull the gun away and to the side, fading the new paint into the existing paint. This is the proper way to do it, aka an invisible repair. I can't tell you how often I see things on cars and people say "It's never been in an accident". I call B.S. and have them stand at a certain angle to see the paint difference between panels.

OP - if you have any questions, scan your estimate and post it and I'll be able to answer the questions for ya. Good luck.
Old 9/15/10, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 05GT-O.C.D.
Exactly wrong. (sorry, not meaning to be a d!ck)

When an estimate says "Blend" on it, it takes the normal paint time for a panel and reduces it in half. This is to paint an adjacent panel. For example: They're replacing the fender, so they're likely blending the door. They'll disassemble the door (RI handle, belt molding, int trim panel, etc) and as they're painting the fender they'll also paint the front part of the door and pull the gun away and to the side, fading the new paint into the existing paint. This is the proper way to do it, aka an invisible repair. I can't tell you how often I see things on cars and people say "It's never been in an accident". I call B.S. and have them stand at a certain angle to see the paint difference between panels.

OP - if you have any questions, scan your estimate and post it and I'll be able to answer the questions for ya. Good luck.
Thanks for your instructional words. Re the blend I just don't see the need for it for a non-metallic white like I have. Just paint the affected panels and BE DONE. The rear bumper plastic doesn't exactly match the rear qtr sheet metal, and yet IT'S THERE from the factory, and with no gap, as would be between the hood and fender. I just don't want a bunch of compound in my door jambs forever...(but with white it'll be less noticable, yay!).

I've decided to go with my trusted guy near where I used to live, abt a 2-hour drive now. The estimator this morning was recommended by the insurer (A TLC-certified shop - "Total Liberty Care", LOL), whereas "my" guy is independent (is the shop owner too), and his 1st comment was REPLACE the hood, don't even try to fix it. I guess adding the hood to the equation brings it up closer to $4000! But I will have peace of mind if this guy does it, despite the fact I won't have that "lifetime warranty on all repairs" I'd have if the insurance-partnered body shop did it. So am feeling better about it now b/c I know he won't treat the car like a Kenmore dishwasher (an appliance, which admittedly most cars are to most people).

I am taking it in Sunday so he'll have it Monday morning. I told him to take his time & do it right.

The stripes are still TBD; I don't think I'll b able to afford his price (was $1500 prior to the deer incident, hasn't revised it yet). We shall see.....

Last edited by Double-EDad; 9/15/10 at 06:08 PM.
Old 9/15/10, 06:44 PM
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When they repaired my key job, they had to pull two small dings out (by spot welding and pulling them - no dope) and repaint the r front fender and the rear quarter panel where some marks were. But in so doing they had to blend the paint from the fender to the r door, and blend the r qtr panel to the trunk lid. They did not blend onto the hood (and I can tell - most wouldn't).

However, clear coat cannot be blended in - they have to do an entire section. So they completely clear coated the fender, door, qtr panel (incl the section above the door along the roof), and trunk lid.
Old 9/15/10, 06:55 PM
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Let's face it - bodywork sucks all the way around!

Unless, of course, that bodywork is adding something fun & not just repairing crap.
Old 9/15/10, 07:10 PM
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Holy cow...I mean moose!
Old 9/15/10, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Double-EDad
Thanks for your instructional words. Re the blend I just don't see the need for it for a non-metallic white like I have. Just paint the affected panels and BE DONE.
You would think so, but white is an extremely hard color to match. Not to discourage you, but I sold a brand new Performance White GT/CS with less miles on it than yours because of the blending that was done trying to get a new rear bumper to match. This minor incident...





Turned into blending all through the circled area on both sides trying to get it to match.....





It looked great in almost all situations, but, at a certain time of daylight, it just didn't match to my eye. Most people would never have noticed it, but I'm picky and knew it was there. And the fact that so much had been painted on, I was afraid that in a few years it would fade differently than the factory paint and look like the whole rearead had been demolished and fixed. I just couldn't live with it, and sold it.

Sorry to be such a downer, just giving some advice about what to look for when you get it back.


And I agree about the hood, put a new one on it.

Last edited by Rather B.Blown; 9/16/10 at 09:31 PM.
Old 9/15/10, 07:39 PM
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Blending from the bumper into the quarter??? That's kind of weird. The bumper covers absorb pigment differently than the sheetmetal. You can take the gun directly from the cover onto the quarter and when it dries you can sometimes see different shades. Ever see a late 90's Camry? Some of the worst. On a cover you do a spray-out panel, no way I'd blend into the quarters. Blending from the quarter to the cover is mostly pointless except for maybe some tri-stage paints. Heck, my cover doesn't match my quarters right from the factory, Torch Red.
Old 9/15/10, 08:03 PM
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Why not just paint the **** bumper & leave the rest alone? I still don't understand. You already HAD a visual break - at the seam. I think THAT would be less noticable than a "blend". On every car I've had that was "blended", you could see the "blend line" in just the right light, and it always worsened over time.

It's not like the dang plastic bumpers are all blended in with the rest of the car when the car is built. No, they get painted - and friggin' bolted to the car later on down the line, and they don't quite match, but nobody cares, at least I don't. But if there was a "blend line" going across my qtr panel I would be livid.

Jeeez this has me so pi$$ed and stressed now. Over 37 friggin' thousand dollars down the drain because I was sick of buying used cars that carried secrets in their past and for once I'd have a car that would start in the same condition that I always keep my cars - like new. I am beginning to think it's better not knowing the secrets.

Last edited by Double-EDad; 9/15/10 at 08:05 PM.
Old 9/15/10, 08:11 PM
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Look at this completely virginal seam between the plastic bumper skin and the steel rear fender, just as the Ford factory & Henry Ford intended it and built it. It's not easy to see in this photo (or live either), but the paint doesn't match perfectly. <gasp> But the seam between the 2 parts provides an adequate visual break. Why isn't this good enough for body shops?
Attached Thumbnails Hit a Stupid Deer Tonight-rr-qtr-closeup.jpg  

Last edited by Double-EDad; 9/15/10 at 08:14 PM.
Old 9/15/10, 08:11 PM
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After thinking about it, it looks to me like you should keep all info and especially the pics of the damage for when you go to sell the car.

When carfax pops up an accident report, you want to be able to show the damage wasn't that bad. The problem is that someone's gonna see the report and want to deduct for it. You need to be able to show that this was the damage and what you are looking at is the repair. FWIW.

I feel so sorry for you Eric. It really sucks. But the car is still a great car. I think if it were me and I could figure out a way to do it, I'd maybe get a Steeda front bumper cover or a GT/CS and maybe an aftermarket hood. Then when its done instead of looking at it and trying to find flaws in it compared to the original, you might look at it and see how much better or different it looks than stock. Like an improvement kind of thing. I think that maybe if you don't try to at least do that you'll look and see teh flaw that you know is there.
Old 9/15/10, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Rather B.Blown
You would think so, but white is an extremely hard color to match. Not to discourage you, but I sold a brand new Performance White GT/CS with less miles on it than yours because of the blending that was done trying to get a new rear bumper to match. This minor incident...





Turned into blending all through the circled area on both sides trying to get it to match.....


Sorry to be such a downer, just giving some advice about what to look for when you get it back.


And I agree about the hood, put a new one on it.
You can see in the photo above that the original plastic bumper didn't quite match the steel it fastened to. So why did they ruin the rest of the car trying to match a part after re-painting it when it didn't match in the first effin' place? THAT seems like chasing your tail to me. Just sayin'.


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